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1968 AMX Rear Leaf Spring Project.

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BigRedCornhead View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BigRedCornhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 1968 AMX Rear Leaf Spring Project.
    Posted: Nov/09/2022 at 10:45am
All,

I have an upcoming project of replacing my rear springs on my 68 AMX. I have currently ordered the following from APD and from Eaton springs.
  • New rear shackle bushings upper and lower.
  • New U bolts for each side
  • New Front Eye bolt for each side
  • New 2+ rear leaf springs w/ bushings
I am planning on some vacation time around Thanksgiving to get this all completed. I am looking for any tips that might provide ease of installation from everyone here? Any suggestions are welcome. Please let me know what you think. I have been very pleased thus far with both Eaton and APD, customer services and order fulfillment. I plan to post before and after pics to share with the group as well. 
  • I plan to soak all nuts and bolts with penetrating oil way in advance multiple times.
  • 3 ton jacks stands on the rear frame rails, and I'm assuming easiest is to keep jack under the rear diff while performing the swap
  • Bushings are already installed in both eyes of the leaf spring
  • I purchased large fender washer in case there is play on the front eye both, as i read on here there should not be any lateral movement
  • Anti seize or any lube on bolt through eyes etc? LMK
Any other tips from anyone that might have already replaced springs before hand? Thanks very much.
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mramc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mramc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/09/2022 at 11:41am
Be sure and order the heavy duty springs from who ever you order them from. Been there , done that. LRDaum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote troutwilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/09/2022 at 9:58pm
Just thinking about it, might be nice to have 2 hydraulic jacks under the axle, one on each side of the diff.  Axle assembly would have a tendency to tip up/down on either side if supported just under the diff. Would be a different story if the springs mount under the axle.
Bill O.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2022 at 6:15am
  • I plan to soak all nuts and bolts with penetrating oil way in advance multiple times. Try loosening them each time your under there. A slight tighten first, before loosening I find works best. Really nice to know you have movement before getting right into this and loosened, the penetrating oil will work better.
  • 3 ton jacks stands on the rear frame rails, and I'm assuming easiest is to keep jack under the rear diff while performing the swap Jacks to keep the differential from rotating as stated are a good idea.
  • Bushings are already installed in both eyes of the leaf spring
  • I purchased large fender washer in case there is play on the front eye both, as i read on here there should not be any lateral movement Spot on.
  • Anti seize or any lube on bolt through eyes etc? Yes lubricate, but ensure the lubricant is compatible with the bushing material and is water resistant. Many heavy silicone greases are compatible with rubber or polyurethane. Anti seize the perch mount bolt threads for sure.
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70,71,72 AMXS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70,71,72 AMXS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2022 at 6:25am
Do one side at a time, no axle rotating to worry about.. If you have a rust belt car, make sure to have a saws-all with plenty of extra blades. A front bolt that has rusted solid into the bushing will not come out most of the time. Quicker to just cut it.
Bruce in NW Ohio
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2022 at 7:33am
Just be careful how you cut off the front perch bolts. You have to ensure there is enough bolt left to grab and work out. If you cut the bolt flush with the perch, it's a long tedious process to remove the remainder of the bolt as you cannot get a drill in there.
Best to split the leaf spring loops, cut off the rubber and have the whole bolt to work with. If it's that seized, a torch would be handy to have available.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70,71,72 AMXS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2022 at 11:19am
[QUOTE=Trader]Just be careful how you cut off the front perch bolts. You have to ensure there is enough bolt left to grab and work out. If you cut the bolt flush with the perch, it's a long tedious process to remove the remainder of the bolt as you cannot get a drill in there.
Best to split the leaf spring loops, cut off the rubber and have the whole bolt to work with. If it's that seized, a torch would be handy to have available.
[/QUO   ?? he said he is replacing the front bolts.. cut it on both sides of the spring and be done with it, IF the bolt is seized in the bushing

Edited by 70,71,72 AMXS - Nov/10/2022 at 11:43am
Bruce in NW Ohio
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2022 at 11:54am
You are correct Bruce, just cut them off in most cases.
In my area, there were several cars that the nuts replaced with flange nuts welded to the perch.
I'm assuming this was the easy fix to the perch hole being oversized do to corrosion of the bolt in the leaf spring bushing. This made the perch holes the bearing point.
Likely a local dealer doing this in the day.
Made the mistake of just cutting the bolt each side, just to find out that removing the flange nuts was going to be more difficult then reusing them.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2022 at 11:57am
  Before the parts are here, I would loosen the hardware and make sure its OK.  As stated above, I had one front eye bolt that was seized inside the bushing.  The bolt head would turn, but I was unable to drive the bolt out.  I cut it with a sawzall on either side of the bushing.  The bushing seized on the bolt and broke free from the rubber.  This is the reason to use anti seize on the bolts.  If you loosen the front bolts on both sides (and confirm they will come out), it will make your job easier when the rest of the parts come in.
  Your AMX should have torque links on it, this means that it won't have 'normal' U-bolts.  There is one U-bolt per side, flattened on top, that goes right over the axle like most cars.  There are two hex bolts that hold the torque link bracket in place.
  My leaf springs from Eaton were not painted.  Not sure if this bothers you or not, but if you want them painted, do it before you plan on starting the job.  There was also one of the slider tabs broken, eaton sent me replacements.
  Other than hardware issues, it should be a straightforward job.  Have fun.

Mike
1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2022 at 12:03pm
And if you find that your torque link bushings are shot, 401matcoupe on here installs new rubber bushings.

Mike

1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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