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1968 AMX Front end trunion removal

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68AMXJoe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 68AMXJoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 1968 AMX Front end trunion removal
    Posted: May/21/2022 at 10:38am
 A while back I had a Member offer how to remove the front suspension without killing or hurting yourself...LOL.
   He stated it was quite easy? I could use the information at this time.
   Thanks in advance.  
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BBO390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BBO390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2022 at 10:50am
Scott Campbell's How to restore AMX book has a good amount of information in it. It was helpful to me.
69 BBO AMX 390 auto 1968 Rogue V8 68 AMX 343 AT 52A Project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbwicz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2022 at 11:10am
I haven't done it yet, but Galvins has a version of the factory spring compressor guides.  I bought one for $65 and will be following the TSM for removing the springs.

Mike
1970 AMX, one step forward, one step back. Both steps cost time and money.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2022 at 1:41pm
It should be noted: Galvin's trunnion spring tool does not compress the spring. It will only hold a spring that has been compressed by the weight of the car with the weight of the engine and transmission, in the compressed position. If you want to compress the trunnion spring it requires a spring compressor that is home made, which requires the ability to weld. I made the one below. The photo shows about how much the spring needs compressing to remove it. There is a thread on it back in July 2018 about the parts it took to make it. Timed how long it takes to remove a spring...two minutes. 
Questions are powerful tools...what's in your toolbox?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX390AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2022 at 3:57pm
Joe,
 Not sure if I'm who you're referring to, but I have a set of the trunnion spring holders that I'll lend to any Forum member for free. It's only a single pair of holders, so only one trunnion spring at a time can be removed, but I've done more than a dozen trunnion removals with these holders. Also, more than a dozen Forum members have used them (all successfully!), so if you still have the engine/transmission in place (or several hundred pounds of ballast on the front axle), send me your address and I'll send you the tools. Keep them as long as you need them. Your only cost is about $15 for mailing them back in a medium Postal Flat Rate box.
  A quick overview. If removing the left side trunnion/spring, jack up the right rear wheel and place a jack stand under the right side rear axle. After removing the left front wheel/tire, jack up the left front under the lower control arm. The trunnion spring will compress enough to install the tool into the ears of the upper and lower spring cups. Lower the jack and the spring should fall out. A few caveats- you need to remove the front shocks and it's probably a good idea to remove the strut rod as well so the lower control arm/trunnion assembly can move unimpeded. Opposite side is the same procedure, jack up the opposite side of the rear from the front you're working on. To remove the spring from the holder, I set it under a 2 post lift arm and let the lift arm compress the spring enough to remove the tool. Raise the lift and the spring will expand. That way the tool is available for the other side. Re installation is the reverse.
  There are other methods that work also, maybe someone else can chime in, but this has worked safely for me and several other Forum members. Just be very careful with the spring and tool assembly while it's compressed, it contains several hundred pounds of kinetic energy and can cause bad things to happen if not handled carefully. Things that probably won't "Buff Out" if you get my drift. That said, the tools work well, I still have all my fingers and teeth so good luck to you.
  If I can help with your front end rebuild, let me know.

Terry Sumter
Nashville, Indiana
Terry
68 AMX 390 4 Sp Rally Green
68 AMX 390 4 Sp Matador Red
68 AMX 390 4 Sp Calcutta   
   Russet
56 Chevy Sedan Delivery
2016 Can AM Spyder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2022 at 4:16pm
If in a rust belt, DO NOT trust the spring cups to hold the spring unless thoroughly inspected! And then since you cannot see the bottoms, don't trust them at all IMO.
Had this go wrong once and that is more then enough.
Spring compressor only for me, and wrap the spring also.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regamble1969 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2022 at 4:25pm
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

If in a rust belt, DO NOT trust the spring cups to hold the spring unless thoroughly inspected! And then since you cannot see the bottoms, don't trust them at all IMO.
Had this go wrong once and that is more then enough.
Spring compressor only for me, and wrap the spring also.


When I removed the springs from mine this exact nightmare ran through my head like some slow motion scene in a movie. I fought like the dickens to get my spring compressors in there due to the holder ears on the spring cups. So much so I considered just cutting the ears off. I get their purpose but no thanks.
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68AMXJoe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 68AMXJoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2022 at 4:28pm
Unfortunately, the engine and trans are out. But you said it is okay with some weight up front. I will give you  a holler when I am ready. Sounds great and I will probably need them. 
    Thanks Again,
          Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BU1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/26/2022 at 5:48pm
Originally posted by BBO390 BBO390 wrote:

Scott Campbell's How to restore AMX book has a good amount of information in it. It was helpful to me.
 
 
 Scott's trunnion R&R method works well with the engine removed, and takes a lot of the danger out of the equation. I think the details have been posted here on this site. If one does a search for trunnion removal or something similar, it should show up.
AMO #2726
#1 1968 AMX Rally Green 343 Z code 4spd since 1975 #02642
#2 1968 AMX Rally Green 290 N code 4spd since 2019 #02959
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