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1966 American stuck starter? |
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BayAMC
AMC Fan Joined: Nov/25/2020 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Posted: Dec/27/2020 at 1:27pm |
So I’ve been checking some starting issues with my American and it appears it is indicating a stuck starter.
Im having a heck of a time finding one that looks like what I’ve got in the 66’. Is there a generic relay that can be used or does anyone have an idea where I can find one. Here’s a photo of the current starter relay. (Note: I am now aware this is not a starter relay) https://photos.app.goo.gl/yd6fJ4DUeSAjTAdKA Thanks in advance. You all are awesome when it comes to answering questions. Update #1 12/28/20 I did attempt to disconnect the green wire to the starter solenoid that goes to the ignition switch to rule out the tumbler/switch being an issue. Tried to jump the car and decided to just give the negative terminal a couple taps and had some strong arching so I'm now leaning towards (with everyones input) that we're looking at the starter or starter solenoid being the issue. I'll be ordering a new starter to replace it and see if that helps out at all. Update #2 12/29/20 Here is a photo of the starter once I removed it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/MaavAVAhY4crCAXk6 Edited by BayAMC - Dec/29/2020 at 1:47pm |
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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That's the horn relay, nothing to do with the starter. Do you have a technical service manual? What do you mean by "stuck starter"? That phrase conjures up starter that operates but won't turn the engine over (loud CLUNK sound, not turning over), or worse, one that engages and won't stop. If you mean you turn the key and nothing happens, that could be (and I think commonly is) the neutral safety switch, mounted to the bottom of the steering column, that allows starting only in Neutral. They get out of adjustment, fail, etc. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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BayAMC
AMC Fan Joined: Nov/25/2020 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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My mistake with the picture. But to answer your question what the issue I’m experiencing is the car constantly cranking without a key in the ignition. Quick back story: So initially the car had carb and PCV issues and the car was dying and having issues. I was able to limp it home one night and at one point I went to start the car and it attempted to crank on its own for 45 seconds with no key in it (I removed the key obviously). I’ll say a little bit lower in the post how the first thing I did was replace the starter solenoid. So here’s the current issue. The battery is low enough right now that the car needs a jump. The two times I’ve had car savvy friends come over to help we experience this: Grab jumper cables and attach positive/negative to friends car Attach positive to AMC and the second the negative jumper makes contact we get bad sparks. We attempted to “tap” the horn relay (we mistaking my thought it was the starter relay as I stated) and we were then able to somewhat safely attach the negative jumper to a different ground without sparks. (Obviously a coincidence we were able to ground it after tapping on it) Half the time we did that the car attempted to crank over on its own (while a very dull attempt) it was still attempting. This obviously was causing a considerable amount of risk with the jumper cables and disconnecting as we started to get smoke from the negative cable once. Our thought was a “stuck” starter relay possibly, but not sure if it is the ignition switch, starter, starter solenoid or something else. I have already replaced the starter solenoid (took before pictures) and connected the new one the exact same way. Not sure if what I said makes sense or not. “Rambled” a bit. Edited by BayAMC - Dec/27/2020 at 7:11pm |
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graewolf
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/25/2012 Location: Richmond Va. Status: Offline Points: 135 |
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Makes perfect sense. I got one that sometimes does it too, but I don't know what's causing it. Mine is like once every couple of months. Seems to do it when battery is a little low. I leave the negative terminal "slightly" loose so I can remove it by hand if necessary. NOT a solution but haven't been able to figure it out and also haven't found anyone who can set me on the path to finding it. Sorry I can't help further.
Perk
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Americans, 65 Convertible, 64-65 Wagons, 64 220 2Dr, 66 2Dr Hardtop..... They follow me home!!!
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BayAMC
AMC Fan Joined: Nov/25/2020 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Let’s hope we get a little guidance for both of our sanity. It’s to the point where I can’t drive it anymore so I’m just a little worse off than you right now ha ha.
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RobinPDX
AMC Apprentice Joined: Dec/07/2020 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 191 |
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If I am reading correctly here, what is occurring, normally the starter solenoid is energized by the key .
So the key tumblers likely are the “root cause” issue allowing the tumbler start contact to stay closed feeding the solenoid kicking the starter. |
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BayAMC
AMC Fan Joined: Nov/25/2020 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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So you’d think the ignition switch would be the next piece to swap out/troubleshoot? Or really just the tumbler system itself? |
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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The solution is to get methodical.
Identify the small wire on the starter that is the "start signal" that tells the starter to turn on. When you turn the key to START, the wire from the back of the ignition switch runs to the neutral safety switch and another wire from the neutral safety switch runs to the starter solenoid built into the starter. Obviously there should be voltage on that point only when the key is turned, and in neutral. If there is voltage on that terminal all the time, then you'll ahve to trace it out and find out why. If that terminal has voltage only when the key is on, then the solenoid within the starter is physically stuck on. In that case the best thing to do is to remove the starter and service it. Because constant engine turnover is so annoying and dangerous, you might intervene and disconnect the fat battery cable from the starter (pull at the battery first). You will have to connect all of the wires that were using the starter terminal as a connection point, in other words, you want all of the wiring to be present and accounted for EXCEPT the starter motor itself. THEN you can test the starter switch, neutral safety, etc, without the engine cranking over. You'll really need a TSM to do most of this. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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RobinPDX
AMC Apprentice Joined: Dec/07/2020 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 191 |
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Yes a TSM or wire diagram will allow you to follow the circuit electrical path, to see what contacts actuates what. Possible disconnect the wire harness for Ign switch assembly then connect battery cables to see if it runs away still, if NOT then verify the IGN switch out pin by pin to see if you get the proper open Pos.
A faster way is maybe a new switch assembly if they are not to expensive, plug the new one into your wire harness plug and see what occurs.
Edited by RobinPDX - Dec/28/2020 at 2:11pm |
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