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"1958 Rambler Super" mission fix it and drive it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/09/2021 at 4:35pm
Ok, I was gone trying to work as hard as I could and not spend time on the phone so I haven't been on here in awhile so I'll answer your questions or suggestions now, I may not remember all your names but the suggestions will be easy to identify...
The tap maybe able to be drilled with a Dremel blade and maybe able o be turned out with a screwdriver, but I've been spending loads of cash on this problem and I wanna back up a bit before I go broke. Buying a Dremel just o experiment is worth the shot, bit not now man.
There is lots of ways to get out a tap, I've checked it out, from using a tap extractor tool by Walton, or drilling it out gradually with a diamond encrusted hole saw bit, which no store around had unfortunately, I also was making my own tap extractor out of 5/16 steel stock which I'll describe in a sec...
And pulling the engine renting a truck and a hoist and taking it to a machinst, then reversing the process............... I don't got It in me my friend.... Not this year......
Using a pair of needle nose pliers, maybe, the little tools I was making only went down to flutes about 1/2 inch give or take, not too sure needle nose will work better... Would be worth a shot though.
And yep, going easy on the tap back and forth like that was what I should have been doing was doing before I did the exact thing I shouldn't be doing. That's how we learn I geuss....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/09/2021 at 5:21pm
So here's what I did to try get the broke tap out....
I bot some 5/16 round steel, hack sawed off a two inch long piece, used the tiny vice I bot, and mini hack saw, and $314 angle drill to mill my own tap extractor tool.
They were crude, and I could have used a small file to make the edges less rough, but couldn't find one with out buying about 9 others I didn't want In a package, so I didnt.
I crafted the tool by drilling out the middle of the round steel, I got pretty good at it after a few times so it was quick work after awhile, then I would hacksaw most of the steel down the length of the hollow center, and bent out the pieces I didn't want there, leaving four little prongs to slide down the flutes of the broke tap, after that I would file the round part a little and whatever else I thought needed it to take off the burrs, then files off flat edges of the other end so a pair of channel locks could grab it easier for the time when it would be turned, then I slid the tool into the flutes of the tap and used a very nice pair of channel locks brand plier cutters, made in the USA, I was happy to but it since it's made in the USA and not china for a change. Anyways I chopped sewing needles in half and jammed up the rest of the space between the tool and the flutes, after that I wrapped the whole thing together with a tiny hose clamp, then hoped for the best and turned the tool, hoping it would turn out the tap.
The first tool I made might have taken me more then an hour and a half, I can't be sure, I think in my video I said it took like two hours.
After I turned the first tool I made, I really believed it did turn and was very happy, but the next day I kept making the tools with a smile on my face, convinced I would have succes over my own f up, that day I made four tools but the first one was so hastily made with so much cockiness I messed it up and it had to be chucked.
But oh no I didn't care because I was going places with this little idea of mine, and I kept working away with the tiny hacksaw and my $314 angle drill in the basement by the washing and drying machines, on the tiny vice clamped to the edge of the little table no one uses and cares about, my own little work shop, my neighbor Shawn who's a carpenter laughed alittle when he saw me set up over there when he came down to take out his trash.
Hour after hour I made these ugly little tools, three of them, I took a pic of the progress at around 6:30 And another one at 10:50 and was let down with the reality of the situation, I was wrong the whole time, the broken tap never moved due to my efforts in the first place.
But the next day I made one more and his time didn't jam them up with sewing needles, and just watched the tap not move as the steel four pronged tool disintegrated and crumbled as it turned, braced by the tiny hose clamp. I had another idea, to use a actual 5/16 bolt, drill out the middle and make the tool and use it's head and a socket to turn it, why not? But it also was destroyed, and was no match for the remains of my mistake.....
So, elec fuel pump is now on the radar, bot today along with the recommended three prong oil switch, I'll start wrapping my head around the install asap.
I have made the required plate to cap off the fuel pump flange, and had the time to paint it up alittle.....


Each little tool I made took around 45 minutes, but some tool longer, maybe the first one took maybe more then hour and a half, all together I'd say that effort took more then 7 or 8 hours, maybe more, I dunno, it's all in the past now, time to move on.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/10/2021 at 12:04am
Taps are very hard and brittle. Machining them out of a hole is going to be difficult. The brittleness can work to your advantage. With the right punch, you may may be able to smash it into pieces to remove it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/10/2021 at 7:24pm
I thought of that too, but for now I'm going to try and resurrect the rambler and leave the broke tap trilogy behind me for now. Today before work I drilled a hole in a part of the frame near the gas tank, the pump is above the tank but the instructions say don't install this pump more then 24 inches above the bottom of the gas tank, and I measured it and it's around 19, maybe 18, so according to the pump company, I'm ok as is. I've bot a three pronged oil switch like some people on the forum recommended, but am waiting for some more replies to fully understand where the wires go on it, the plan was to get power from the "run" or IGN post of the starter switch for the time being, and later use the oil pressure switch and I think set up a relay by the starter? And connect the wire from one of the posts of the oil switch to the relay which would prime the pump (I think) bit I'm still unclear as how the safety feature of having this connection works, to shut off the pump if in a car crash and there's no more rpm creating oil pressure.... A wire going from the positive terminal of the fuel pump is connected to the oil switch, and the negative terminal of the fuel pump is the ground, also going to the top post of the oil switch? Or would the old oil pressure light in the dash be connected to that? And the negative terminal on the fuel pump be attached somewhere on the chassis as the ground..?? There's alot of confusion I'm experiencing as I've got lots of help and input but some of its confusing.... What isnt confusing is connecting the positive terminal on the fuel pump to the "run" position on the ignition switch, or literally the IGN post so the pump is getting power while the key springs back to this place after the engine has started, and the negative terminal of the pump is the ground to a place near by on the chassis.... Connect fuel lines to the IN and OUT side of the pump and filter and all done. There was a member who said "there is the priming issue" and recommended the oil switch and relay at the starter scenario....but couldn't the priming issue also be solved by turning the ignition switch to the "run"/IGN position of the ignition switch for about five seconds which would pump fuel for that five seconds before turning the key all the way to the start position and then starting the car?

Edited by 1958 rambler super - Sep/10/2021 at 7:30pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2021 at 10:53am
Ok, I finished installing the new electric fuel pump, it's underneath the trunk above the gas tank, but not higher then 24 inches above the bottom as per Instructions. I spent three hours or so routing the wire through all sorts of out of the way places and did the crimping and shrink wrap tubing sealing around the crimp work with a lighter while lying in the gravel in my coveralls under the car, it was a adventure with one arm wrapped around the differential and the other around the axle after 1130 in the night, I really wanted to make progress and I did.
I wired the power to the run position of the ignition switch, and put the ground under the securing bolt for the pump. But I made sure o use my $314 angle drill and a small wire wheel to make a good ground for it by cleaning it up real good, nice and shiny.
I tried to get a new ground wire made with wire I was trying to buy, but I found out the store doesn't have wire that fine, after I snipped it and took it down there. I was surprised because it's a electronic work supply store with loads of electronic stuff all sort of connectors and diff types of tools and wire for that type of work.
So I reused the wire and recrimped it carefully and put it back, I also wiped off the little bit of oil in between the little metal round parts that open and close on the points, oil had gotten there because when I was using the gap tool to measure the gap distance of .016 the tool had been oiled when packaged, and I didn't think to wipe it off, so I thought that might be a reason the engine wasn't starting.
I also refurbished the connecting wire between the coil and the distributor, the small one that's about 16 gage size, not the spark plug sized one, I noticed the wires were exsposed a tiny bit at the connectors, so I snipped them off and recrimped new spade connectors on, and sealed up the ends with heat shrink to protect them. They look nice and healthy now.
I also tried to reset the 5bdtc and think I did a adequate job at that venture, seeing as how I was wrong before making that adjustment, the new adjustment made me feel confident I got it 5btdc, and before it was not, it was maybe 5atdc.
Today after work I'll stick to the basics and do a spark test to see if I have spark, and I'll also have a second thought at the gas the carb is providing, the choke that doesn't seem to close is also something I think I should start considering..... Maybe that carb isn't as functional as I think it is, maybe I should put on the new one that hasn't been adjusted? And try and adjust it as I go.


Edited by 1958 rambler super - Sep/12/2021 at 10:55am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/13/2021 at 11:33am
Did the spark test and no spark... Tested the coil and no response (I wrapped a wire under negative post of coil and contacted the wire to three diff spots on engine, braided ground strap connecting back side of timing chain cover to cross member, and also exhaust manifold and no spark response when testing coil.
Bit it was definitely sending power to dist last start up attempt, no it's not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2021 at 11:35am
Did some more work surrounding no spark issue and sparks near ignition switch....
I spent about five hours doing the following work....
I got under the dash and cleaned up the wire attachments on the ignition switch, removed one wire, a blue wire that goes to nothing and ends in a bunched up length under the passenger side area of the dash to make room for the tach light that I removed when I put the fuel pump power there for the time being, so it's very nice and neat now and not such a mess, and no sparks yet! That's good!
Also I took a closer look at why the coil seemed not to be sending a spark to dist, I did the test and it presented results of no spark, so I took a closer look... The test I did this time was going to be slightly different, the neg post was going to be empty except for the test wire, I also cleaned up the post area that was alittle wet with engine compartment filth, that doesn't help I'm sure, I wiped it dry. I also sanded the washers and little nuts with 220 grit sandpaper, even the insides,(not the nut threads). This time when I did the test it resulted in sparks!! So the coil is presently still good! It seemed to be sending spark to the dist last start up attempt so I wasn't ready to think something had happened to it since last time, it didn't seem likely.
So! After that I looked into the distributor and took a look at the wire I refurbished, and rearranged it alittle and tightened down it's location fastner, I also checked the point gap again, and it wasn't even closing! This is a big bold sign pointing to why no spark is happening (I think) so I regapped the points to .016, set the dist back in and relocated the rotor to #1 cyl, and moved the vacuum line so it sits ontop of the valve cover to give the dist opportunity to be swiveled quite a bit while engine combustion is attempted and didn't fully tighten down the dist, then I re did the spark test with the plug, and still no spark.... It kinda sucked.... Then I realized when I was inside thinking about it that I hadn't reattached the connecting wire between the coil and the side of the dist, went back out to the rambler did that, tried spark test again and got spark! 
It was a orange spark, so I got the battery charging this morning to try and get that spark it's blue color it's supposed to have, And will try the start up attempt again after I check down the carb to see if there is a better squirt o gas going into the carb since last time.
Making progress!


Edited by 1958 rambler super - Sep/14/2021 at 11:38am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/15/2021 at 2:52pm
First start up and 20min break in ACHIEVED!
I was told to stick to the basics, if you have gas and spark, you will be able to get the combustion process going.
I wasn't getting lots of gas squirting out of the carb, I wasn't getting spark.
A forum member told me the old crapped out unused for some time carb might need to be worked a bit before it can give sufficient gas down the intake, and that seemed to be correct, as after a week or two it did clear up, so now I had gas.
I wondered why I wasn't getting spark and chased possible problems down the circuit pathway, from the ignition switch, to the coil, from the coil to the distributor, from the distributor to the spark plugs.
I did some careful work rearranging the stack of wires on the IGN post of the ignition switch, took off the "blue wire that goes to nowhere" and put the tach light back, trimmed up the ancient heat shrink on the yellow wire, arranged all the wires so they were not jumbled up ontop of each other, found I had put a wire ontop of the split washer then put the tiny nut ontop of that wire making a messy wire/washer sandwich... I definitely noticed how messy it was and cleaned that situation up real good and was proud of the way it looked after that, and was confident I did all I could at that ignition circuit point.
Moving on, I redid the test for the coil, brushing a wire against a ground that was connected to the neg post of the coil, I also sanded all the little washers and nuts and cleaned up the posts, there seemed to be oil or engine compartment filth there so I cleaned everything, this time with the test I had only the test wire on the neg post for the test and turned the ignition to "run" and brushed the wire across the braided ground strap and this time I got sparks!
Then I moved on down the circuit to the dist....
I took the cap off and looked inside, decided to take off the clamp down bolt and take it out if the engine, after doing that I could turn the shaft and see what the gap was looking like, and it wasn't even closing... This is not helpful for a start up venture.
I reset the point gap, wiped off the points so there was definitely no oil or anything in-between them, put them back, tightened down the refurbished wire between the dist housing and point housing, put the dist back in the engine and pointed the rotor to #1 spark plug post. Then I lightly sanded the copper parts of the spark plug posts inside the cap. Then did the spark plug test again, wrapped a wire around the threads of a spark plug connected to a spark plug wire and held it with electrical tape, and used alligator clip to hold the other end onto the exhaust manifold, turned the key, and got no spark.
While inside on the can i was thinking about it and realized I forgot to re-attach the wire from the neg post of the coil to the outside of the dist!
Did that. Did the spark test again and this time got spark!!
It was orange though, and thought I should recharge the battery.
So now I had gas and spark.
Time to move on to the start up attempt again.
But man did I ever procrastinate and drag my feet around doing small things here and there, not wanting to be presented with another 
un-understandable problem getting in my way, stumping me.
I tested the coil, just to see, I had watched a video troutwilly had sent me, I didn't think I needed to since I did the coil test and confirmed it was working, but in the video I heard the guy say if you got less readings then this ".........." You could have a weak spark going to the distributor, causing a no start problem.... So.... I did the test he described, And got reading he said would be ok, but not the best.
So, I decided to just go buy a new coil, I phoned and checked and he said they would only cost about $30 so I went to go buy one.
When I got back to the rambler I decided to clean up the holding bracket for the coil with a little wire wheel on the drill, and I was thinking of painting it but it looked better old and pitted then painted black, I even put a very light coating of engine oil on it so it won't rust anymore unpainted and put it on, looks even cooler in the engine compartment now with the new coil, nice holding bracket, new spark plug wires, freshly painted engine, new Rad hoses and other water hoses, new exterior oil network pipeing, new oil switch and brass fittings and plugs here and there, new oil filter on the filter holder, new battery, a few new wires, cleaned and shiny connectors visable on the generator and starter and everywhere else (kinda) new ballist resistor, new bolts here and there, and soon....the brand new Weber 32/36 carb I have in my kitchen (I'm so excited for that!!)

So.... now after I got that all set up there was not much standing in the way for the third start up attempt... but I was still nervous so I didn't wanna get on it right away... I didn't want to try and have problems occur for me to figure out all over again... I thought things through, what's missing? I went through everything and it was all good to go, except for drilling a new small hole in a new plastic bottle cap I was going o use for a squirt bottle for gas into the carb for the start up, the other hole was too big and made a big mess. I got all the fuel stuff set up, got the Jerry can out, ran the gas hose into it, re polarized the generator at the volt regulator after hooking up the battery, checked the firing order, this time I left the dist clamp down bolt loose enough to turn it to adjust timing during the start up, just like I've read and also had seen people do lots of times in their vids.
Then it was time to get serious. No more lolly gagging. No more procrastinating, either it will start up with alittle work and tuning or it won't.
So I went and got my neighbor who used to sell ramblers back in the 60's and I enlisted him as my co-pilot to turn the key, the old timer groaned as he held his cup of tea and repeatedly made small amounts of progress as he slid his way across the passenger seat to the driver's side, and turned the key, the first crank got the engine to sputter, a good sign! I focused on involving the choke this time, which wasn't easy as it was chopped In half for some reason (housing not the plate) I flipped the throttle a few times, more sputtering, I turned the dissy alittle, it sputters more and back fired a bit with a massive backfire, I used the choke and gas some more, more sputtering and even alittle catching, I turned the dissy more, and gave it a squirt of gas from the bottle, more sputtering and back fireing and was now starting to run alittle!!!
I turned the dissy more, further advancing the timing, (if the cap was turned clockwise, and the rotor spins counter clockwise, that would meen I was advancing the timing I think) and the engine started to run!!!!
But only if I kept up with the throttle, the idle wasn't working for the carb or the engine for some reason.
So, when I got it going I began the 20min break in, but stopped to move the gas can away from the exhaust at the back of the rambler. Started up again and began the 20 consecutive minute break in varying rpm between 2000 and 2500 rpm, I had the phone nearby and called up my dad, I couldn't really hear him very well but I caught "helllooo?????" And also he was asking me where I was, he didn't know what the engine sound was, and I told him "I got it started!!!!" And he was shouting "congratulations!!" And I said thanks dad, by I gotta go.
Holding the throttle for that amount of time with the heat of the engine building created a situation that I had to endure, it was quite painful after 10 minutes and I couldn't let go, or id have to start all over again.
After 15 minutes I didn't know if I was going to make it, at the end of it I was counting down the seconds, literally, and as soon as the second hand on my 1960's watch, an "accurist", 22 jewel wind up wrist watch I had repaired for around $300, as soon as the last second of the 20 minute break passed on the watch I immediately let go of the throttle, and the engine died pretty quick after that... I think I cooked my hand alittle... I stood there bent over holding my hand, and it's still numb and tingly today. I felt pretty weird as well because there seems to be a massive exhaust leak at the manifold and exhaust pipe connection... Oh geeze.
My neighbor said " tommy..... You did it!!! After all this work you did it and didn't give up!! "  I said yeah!! I did!! 
It was a very happy moment for me and all this work I been doing with the rambler over all these months.

Here's some info I observed during the break in....

During the beginning of the break in I asked what the oil pressure was like, and he said it was 50. At the end of the break in his said after the first 10 minutes it dropped to around maybe 45-40, we think this is likely due to the hot engine thinning out the oil.

The volts were measured at the gage and volts were 14 volts.

Engine temperature was around 190.

There was vapor or smoke rising out of the oil refill tube after the engine was shut down after the break in, don't know what that meens, maybe it was something to do with the break in situation?

I think I heard a small ticking noise coming from the valve cover area.

The fuel pump doesn't seem to be working anymore... It's not filling the fuel filter canister anymore, I'll check the lines more closely today after work... Good thing it kept up for the break in!

Here's a video of the begining of the start up...

Here's a video of the end of the break in....... (you can see the vapor or smoke rising out of the oil filler tube) https://youtu.be/Gq4DQYyCdQA





Edited by 1958 rambler super - Sep/15/2021 at 3:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/23/2021 at 7:00pm
Moving on from the break in, posters recommended the valves be adjusted, but I would like to put on the new carb first, and "get it to idle" and then do the valve adjustment, but now, I'm working out the kinks in the throttle linkage problems, and one member asked why changed the carb? If it doesn't leak gas ect just leave it, but it's pretty messed up, for some reason the previous owner chopped off the choke housing and the carb is super ugly and I can definitely have a better carb set up,not one that looks like this.... Pic below...
Also, I spent almost two days trying to make sheet metal little parts that would interlock with the throttle of the new carb, and the old style of twist rod throttle linkage, but I wasn't smart enough to make it work.
The sheet metal parts I made didn't let the twisting rod, which twists the throttle on the carb follow it's course of movement, it locked it in place.....so now I'm stumped, and going to try and use a different approach and involve a bell crank, and a cable, or if a member has some advice they can shoot my way to solve the puzzle I'll try thier idea, but if I get the bell crank and throttle cable to work I'll maybe just stick with that, although it'd be nice to use the old linkage since I have all the pieces.

Also, since I'm currently stuck on that issue I'll move on to other jobs.. the gas tank.... I talked to a guy at a place and he said if it was rusty he can't do anything with it, so I'll have to work this out all on my own.... Since it's rusty.....here's a pic of the tank, the dirty level gage, caked with rust, and the left over gas that was in the tank.


Edited by 1958 rambler super - Sep/23/2021 at 8:16pm
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