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"1958 Rambler Super" mission fix it and drive it.

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1958 rambler super View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/07/2022 at 7:21pm
Ahh I see. Anyways, I hadn't seen your post before I tried it because I don't have the internet, but I saw how bad it would be if the two coolant hoses were under the dash, totally not good! So I moved it back into the engine compartment and started working away at the task there. The end result is non Functioning because the wire that is attached to a thicker diameter rod controlling the operation of the valve cannot withstand the force that is needed to open or close it with out bending. It was quite a bit of work that ultimately didn't produce a working solution... but I might have better luck with moving the valve a bit to solve the problem, or find a thicker part that pushes from the lever on the dash. Or not, maybe I'll just get lazy and think that operating the valve by hand is good enough. Here's a pic of the work that involved, all sorts of effort from various hand tools to welding....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/08/2022 at 7:13am
Okay.... so my advice was assuming that a CABLE was used to control the valve and not a ROD. Had to pull my 58 TSM, which really wasn't much help until I read the description of removing the control. Then I realized it used a ROD instead of a CABLE. With a rod the valve will have to be held stationary. The valves are all designed to use a cable, as noted by the clamp -- in which you have a piece of tubing in to guide the rod...  great idea there!

I think your EASIEST solution would be to use a universal under dash choke cable. You'd have to bend a tight loop on the end, which might be a problem, but I've done it with small needle nose pliers. Would prevent going under the hood to control how much heat you're getting!

The second solution would be to get some material to make a stiffer rod, and maybe something to better anchor the valve with, as well as better placement of the valve. That would be a more attractive solution in the long run. Maybe just a bent piece of metal and an additional hose clamp to anchor the valve? I wouldn't want to use the clamp intended to seal the hose on a mount too.

There isn't anything behind the control to mount a cable sheath to that I know of (but not being able to see the control...), or you might be able to replace the rod with a cable.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/14/2022 at 1:55pm
Well, if I use a cable, how will it close the valve (pushing closes) after it gets pulled open? The lever to open the heater gets pulled up to open, pushed back down to close. I noticed you capitolized the words rod and cable, I'm sure you were trying to give me a hint about something, I still don't get it. Your talking to a truly simple but humble person farna, I'm happy and appreciative of your time and honest support and interest in my ongoing project page. I've seen lots of people who have disappeared after starting a project thread and I'm glad I'm still working away and present here on the forum! Thanks for noticing and trying to help! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/15/2022 at 1:14pm
I just found out last night that I forced metric threads in American receiving thread, I'm pretty sure I ruined the threads on the two rear wheel cylinders and the three way junction at the back axle, the fitting at the soft brake line and a coupling going toward the engine compartment. I'm looking for new stuff now. Live and painfully learn. That was a bad mistake, I thought the threads were tough to screw in because maybe the brake line was a little askewed or something. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/17/2022 at 1:55pm
The cable has a round loop on the end that slips over that short rod on the end of the lever on top of the valve. That allows it to work in push and pull directions. That's why I mentioned having to bend a tight loop on a choke cable.

Something like this cable:

Or this one with a fan switch (twist for fan, pull/push for temp):

There are cables with the loop on each end for some controls.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/17/2022 at 9:27pm

Yep! That would work, but I put it aside to do the new tires job, and repainted the wheels at the same time... I would take a wheel off the car, roll it down five blocks to the tire shop, dismount the old tire, take the wheel back home, spend a day sanding and repainting it, then at the end of the week take it back and get the new tire put on and balanced, then repeat. It took around 8 weeks to do the four tires....



Edited by 1958 rambler super - Nov/10/2022 at 8:26pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2022 at 8:42pm
I also got back into rebuilding the brake lines, I built all new hard lines, I also found out I didn't ruin all the threads on the wheel cylinders with the wrong metric threads I was talking about a few posts back, I was wrong about that thankfully. Anyways, I didn't know to double invert the flares when I made the brake lines and the whole thing leaked, a huge mess.... Also the soft lines I bot were the wrong ones, there was a tiny difference I didn't notice, they don't connect to the front wheel cylinder the same way as the old ones did... so I have to redo all that work, and try and find new soft lines. last weekend I built all new lines again with a diff and better flare tool, but saw that a ridge is present on all the flares I made due to something being in between the swivel and the brake line, making a impression into the swivel which caused it to leave a ridge as it formed the flares. I will buy a tool from koul tools, a flare lapping tool to remove it. Also, he gave me an idea to remove the scores on the seats of the wheel cylinders the flares seat onto, the idea is to use valve grinding compound applied to a flared brake line end, rotated against the scored seat using a drill to polish out the scores. I also have had some luck finding the 1/32 inch thick copper washers that go on either side of a brass fitting. This fitting is for the hollow bolt to pass through and threads into the master cylinder, that's the brass fitting that has a 5/16 threaded port for the large brake line leading to the five port junction block, the washers are not exactly identical, but quite close... The Outer diameter isn't the same, it's 11/16th of an inch instead of 13/16th of an inch, but the inner diameter is the same 1/2 inch. So I wonder if that will work. I can't test it out, as I have all that other stuff to do... 

Edited by 1958 rambler super - Nov/10/2022 at 8:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/14/2022 at 7:05am
The OD shouldn't matter on the sealing washers as long as there is room for the larger diameter -- nothing hitting it when tightened down.

The brass fitting with a through hole and copper washers on each side with a hollow bolt is called a "banjo fitting" (and banjo bolt). At least that's what I thin k you are describing. I've never seen them used on a master cylinder, but no reason they can't be -- great for a 90 degree turn. They are usually on the end of the rubber line going to a disc brake caliper.

You can order Jeep rubber lines. They might be a little longer, but the ends should be correct.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/23/2022 at 6:55pm
I tried buying one of those newer jeep lines, and it was from "amc lives", The end might have looked kind of correct, but was not looking exactly the same, but similar, and was about two inches longer, so I thought the extra length might have been dangerous of something contacting the soft line during movement, and it might get damaged and leak... So I decided not to use it, or by the other two... Apparently there is soft lines that are the ones I need, I was directed to them on ebay from a member here, they will come soon and I'll know then.... I hope.... Steve from blaser auto said he's got some too, but I don't know if those will work either, anyways, here's a pic of the brass fitting and copper washers, thanks for the info, but I might be switching mc types after all... The thread is in the brakes section if you wanna read what's gone on so far in the discussion.
Thanks again for the info about the washers farna!



Edited by 1958 rambler super - Nov/28/2022 at 9:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/28/2022 at 9:25pm
I also think I could avoid some of the problems I've run into buy just using a different master cylinder.... If I use the old single piston MC, with the four bolt flange, I'll need to find a five port junction block for the brake lines and stop light switch, copper washers ( already tracked those down, my dad made me them, what a guy!) 

But if I use this dual piston newer mc, with a two bolt flange, two ports on the side for the front and rear brakes, I won't need a five port block, just a couple adapters for the 3/8 nuts on the 3/16 size lines to connect to the ports, 9/16 rear, 1/2 front. Maybe need to widen the bolt holes, or widen the holes in the firewall, because maybe the bolt holes in the newer mc are a larger diameter and they need bigger studs to hold the extra weight of the bigger mc. There's still some orientation logistics to sort out, I'll get into that tomorrow...

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