"1958 Rambler Super" mission fix it and drive it.

Well, I took some time off the rambler to hike the west coast trail for the third time, this time I have a new personal record of hiking 39.5 kilometres in a day. When I got back to the car I found out the reason the adapter doesn't sit flat isn't because the bottom of it isn't flat, it's becuase the distance between the edge of the stud hole and casting of rise of the adapter wall is different between each axis of stud holes. So I'll have to take it back there and try and get them to grind or router away maybe 2 mm's.

Edited by 1958 rambler super - May/14/2022 at 9:45pm

Hi farna, I did the test with the new sender, it was around 60ohms empty and  around 10 ohms full, and yes the meter I have is the kind with the needle, not too sure what could have happened and why the old sender and also new sender aren't working with the dash board gage. Oh well I geuss, I sealed up the tank with the sender and new gaskets for the sender and pick up tube and used fuel resistant permatex and called it a day, if it doesn't work I have a coiled up extra wire connected to the new sender I can route to a new gage in the future if I choose to. Also, after two $61 visits to the machinist to modify the carb adapter, and myself doing some gentle grinding at two areas, I have now been able to mount the adapter (the 4th one I bought) to reorientate the Weber carb facing the firewall, so it could interface with throttle linkage parts I made myself, and some are original, and some are original but slightly modified. (make "this thing" longer but use the original part that moves it for example) (I also had success with making the throttle clip I talked about, it has to be held in place with a small hose clamp but it works, it holds the linkage pieces together and doesn't bind up at all, so that's success in my books) and now the gas pedal is connected to the throttle linkage that is functional! The first idea I had is what the success was based on. the reason it didn't work the first time is because I didn't see the linkage could be orientated the other way, I'll post a picture... the little vertical rod can be pushing up on the horizontal twisting rod making it turn one direction or the other, if you TURN the horizontl all the way around, but I just wasn't smart enough to see that was possible. The rod turns the throttle lever, but only if the little rod pushes up on the horizontal rod the right way. I was also convinced the axis of space the rod needed to be in needed to be very close to the same axis of space the throttle rod inside the carb was, and wasn't believing the idea would work, but when my sister suggested I try it again and I did, it did activate the throttle on the carb!!! And I let her have the credit, even though her idea was my first idea, I just let her think her idea worked because I was mean to her when we were young and I feel bad about it and want to do something nice. Now I have to find out why there's a new coolant leak coming from a piece of equipment passing through the firewall. It is connected to under the dash by the steering colum and has a copper wire coming out of it and the wire is travelling off somewhere towards the middle of the dash, maybe to the heater or something. Maybe this new leak is because I revved the engine up to a new limit never before attempted. Pushing on the pedal and using that ability to rev the engine with out the engine right in my face is one reason why I never revved the engine up to around 4000rpm, after that I noticed the leak pooling onto the floor near the pedals. 

Edited by 1958 rambler super - Jun/02/2022 at 10:03pm

1). I checked the heater hoses, they are not leaking, it is coming from some component of the ranco part you mentioned, me and my dad took it apart and looked at it, but for some reason it didn't leak when we had it in hand and filled it with Coolant... But when we put it back it leaked again, so I think I would like to ask you for a explanation of the on/off switch and just take the ranco equipment out of the whole picture, it's trashed anyway I think. What would be wrong with not having any of the hoses going to the ranco thing and reroute them directly to the heater core? Would that meen the heater core would be hot and radiating heat constantly? 

Edited by 1958 rambler super - Jun/16/2022 at 7:59pm

So after having the credit card payment fail like three times I finally ordered it and got it today from a store in the city, I got 74627, I was trying to order it for a couple weeks! I think I might have to do some adjusting to it to fabricate something that can hold it away from the firewall enough that the hose can come out the other end and also allow the valve to be stabilized when the wire opens or closes it. 

Edited by 1958 rambler super - Jun/27/2022 at 6:48pm

You meen having the hoses go right inside the car through the firewall, that can be done! Maybe something to cover the areas around the hoses at the place where they pass through, to make it look cleaner...