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AMC 360 head questions

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mopar440cu View Drop Down
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    Posted: Dec/01/2016 at 7:26am
Hey guys I have some questions for you I know you can answer. These are pertaining questions concerning a AMC 360 heads.

1. With a 9:1 piston set up should we be using a thicker gasket because of the different pistons? If you don't it can cause a anti-freeze leak?

2. Can a cracked head be caused by a "ledge" that AMC and Ford heads have on the outer bolts that makes them prone to cracking due to years of stress?

3. Is it true that the head bolts don’t use sealer because there is no water at the threads? I read so many different opinions on this. Trying to get this to rest.

Thanks for any advise!!Smile

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2016 at 8:11am
Using thicker head gaskets on AMC is warranted by piston top protrusion. Basically if using a thicker gasket, do not go beyond a .040" quench.

Cracking of heads is usually done by improper torque used or bad bolt down sequence on heads.

I never came up with removing a head bolt with rust at the tip, so I imagine blocks have enough meat at the head section to have enclosed head bolt holes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Traveller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2016 at 11:35am
I have only come across one AMC block that had a couple head bolts go into water, and one that had a single bolt go into water. They're supposed to be blind holes.   Always check though. The outer bolt hole area on AMC heads was machined with a aquare end mill.   This is a stress riser, doesn't matter who the manufacturer is. Even with proper torque procedure, the ends may be weakened from years of heat cycling. They're kind of hanging out in space with no support and no radius machined that would help distribute load. Those bolts should be last in the torque sequence no matter which way you start.

As far as the gasket goes, the danger range on quench is approx. .060-.080, depending on chamber and piston design. .055 quench will run fine. .090 will run fine. The difference with tight quench, is you get better mixture motion in the chamber if you have a flat piston top under the quench pad.   A dished piston top under the quench pad is going to do very little with tight quench, as there will only be a small portion of the piston under the pad. It will help a little, but nothing like running a D-dish piston with the flat area under the quench pad. Tight quench is good for power, but only with the right parts. You're trying to move the mixture towards the spark plug, and a dished piston won't do that.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2016 at 12:19pm
  The early TSMs say the second bolt from the bottom front, left side goes into the water jacket,  and should be sealed.   But some later TSMs don't mention it. 

I've got  4 360 blocks setting around,  and one in my 82 J-10 .   Of the blocks I have setting around,  one, out of a 70 Ambassador,  and the one I have in My J-10, from a 75 Matador,  that one bolt hole is open to the water jacket.  On the other 3 the hole is blind.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Traveller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2016 at 1:38pm
Originally posted by tyrodtom tyrodtom wrote:

  The early TSMs say the second bolt from the bottom front, left side goes into the water jacket,  and should be sealed.   But some later TSMs don't mention it. 

I've got  4 360 blocks setting around,  and one in my 82 J-10 .   Of the blocks I have setting around,  one, out of a 70 Ambassador,  and the one I have in My J-10, from a 75 Matador,  that one bolt hole is open to the water jacket.  On the other 3 the hole is blind.


Maybe it's a difference between early and late blocks then. I didn't check casting dates on the blocks that had a hole open to water.   Wonder if it was a running change.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2016 at 3:53pm
 I don't consider a 360 out of a 75 to be a early block,  I thought the 69-70 and before were early blocks.









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mopar440cu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2016 at 6:24pm
Originally posted by tyrodtom tyrodtom wrote:

  The early TSMs say the second bolt from the bottom front, left side goes into the water jacket,  and should be sealed.   But some later TSMs don't mention it. 

I've got  4 360 blocks setting around,  and one in my 82 J-10 .   Of the blocks I have setting around,  one, out of a 70 Ambassador,  and the one I have in My J-10, from a 75 Matador,  that one bolt hole is open to the water jacket.  On the other 3 the hole is blind.

When you say "left side" are you referring to the passenger's side? Just wanting to make sure. That info is interesting, thank you!😃
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2016 at 7:30pm
Left side as in the car,  driver's side in other words.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ken_Parkman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2016 at 7:35pm
I've seen that in the manuals, and never seen it in real life. They obviously designed it to have blind bosses, my guess is very early production they had some kind of a mistake or quality problem resulting in an open boss, which they subsequently fixed. I imagine the problem only existed in early production.

I never use a sealer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/02/2016 at 7:55am
I didn't use sealer the FIRST time on the 2nd outer bolt on the left on my '70 Javelin 360 when I did a valve job, and I ended up with a coolant leak. When I used #2 [non-hardening] Permatex on the threads of that bolt, as my Chilton manual recommended, the leak was gone.

Based upon that firsthand observation, I would conclude that it's highly likely that the second outer bolt on the left cylinder head did intersect the cooling passage at some point.
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