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Center Force clutch dual friction swelling

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Eddiebell View Drop Down
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    Posted: Sep/10/2022 at 7:19pm
I have proper free play adjustment on it and my car is not a race car but does have some power but im just driveing on the freeway to a car show today at summit racing 45 minute drive away from my house by the time I get to the parking lot I can't even put it in reverse because I gained free play way to much like over a inch and cant even get it into gear . Clutch pressure plate throwout bearing less than a year old flywheel was resurfaced when I installed it . And even when I get up on this car and let it loose the same thing happens to the clutch it swells and gains free play. In it .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2022 at 12:27am
You didn't say what car engine or trans, so is it a 69 AMX?  lol 

Have you checked that the linkage is working properly under the car?
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eddiebell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2022 at 7:21am
Linkage is working new bushings new boot everything's new on the linkage system was adjusted to nuts are tight not backing off I adjust it gave it to free play and the clutch is still swelling it is a 71 javelin AMX 401 4 speed T10 return Springs are in place on the transmission clutch arm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eddiebell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2022 at 7:41am
The trans is also fully rebuilt I did it at my shop myself so there are no leaks in the front seal no leaks at the rear main seal so  no oil is getting on it. The clutch is not slipping it's actually holding I have half an inch of free play only when this thing gets hot does it swell and I gain free playOuch this clutch system is about ready to be a paperweight and a very expensive one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2022 at 11:16am
When it cools down does it return to normal? I find it hard to believe that the facing material would swell. More than likely there's something wrong with the pressure plate.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bwamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2022 at 11:59am
I’ve never run a Centerforce dual friction setup. But I due run a LUC diaphragm and 8 puck sprung ceramic disc on an alum flywheel. I race this at the track with slicks and street. Back to back runs never had a issue with heat. 
 Thoughts. Had this been happening since installation? Is the Z bar stock length on the throw out side? I know I had to shorten mine to clear the Hooker 1 7/8 SuperComps. This reduces the effective throw at the bearing. Possible Pilot bushing getting hot and seizing on the input shaft? Or heat 
Soak and the diaphragm fingers collapsing down. Remember the pressure plate assembly has a lower installed height overall then
The original borg and beck pressure plate. Try to run less free play on the pedal just to confirm it’s the pressure plate.
Does this unit have the weights? And what is the recommended free play due to the weights?


Edited by bwamx - Sep/11/2022 at 12:02pm
73 Jav-AMX " The Black Widow"
358cu/in Crossram
T-10 9" Rear
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Eddiebell View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eddiebell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2022 at 12:54pm
When it cools down i get some of it back this is what is funny . 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2022 at 1:09pm
The gained "free play" would more then likely be the TOB is sticking on the bearing retainer further back as you keep pushing the clutch pedal harder to get gear change.
Guess would be the rebuilt transmission main shaft is not shimmed correctly for clearance and the bearing and bearing retainer are heating up - expanding.
Buddy had a 68 Dart and after an hour above 120 MPH we had to wait 20 minutes for the transmission to cool before it would shift.
Use a cheep infrared thermometer and check your transmission temperatures before taking anything apart.
Fix for his was to take out some shims behind the bearing retainer, new TOB and clean up the sliding surface of the bearing retainer to provide a little more clearance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eddiebell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2022 at 1:10pm
Stock z bar stock throw out arm i even adjusted it to 1/4 of a inch freeplay and still does the same thing i have pulled the boot and with a flash light checked the throw out bearing pulling on the arm to make sure it was free moving and away when in the adjustment polit bearing was brand new on install went in smooth five times before I bought everything down . And the transmission gears are not dragging because I even tested the transmission on my dyno befor i brought it home and it was tested under load . Im going to pull it next week to see whats going on next week when i have time 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/11/2022 at 1:30pm
Have you tried adjusting the freeplay when it's hot and check to see if it works (disengages) properly?

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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