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63 Rambler American 440 shifting issue

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MCP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/12/2021 at 8:29am
Yes, I don't shift into 1st at all except when rpms are 0.   I'm just thankful to be able to gently shift without problems!  It is a blessing!
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1958 rambler super View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/17/2021 at 11:10am
Thanks so much guys! This info is needed by myself, I'm still working towards making sheet metal pieces for the floor so I can mount gas pedal, until then I can't try learning how to drive the ramblers 3speed, maybe this week?? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/18/2021 at 5:52am
If you're not married to the shaft and linkage gas pedal, you can convert to a cable. Those pedals screw to the lower part of the firewall instead of the floor, though you can get a floor mounted one (a bit pricey though). For a hanging type you can go to any salvage yard and take your pick -- most vehicles from the 80s on use a cable pedal that mounts to the firewall.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/22/2021 at 4:54pm
Yup! Me and you talked about me maybe having to get a new gas pedal way back when, and what I had orderd two weeks or so ago was a pedal that mounts to the firewall, and pulls the throttle cable. when I got it I "mocked" it up, and found I would either have to drill a new hole for the cable through the firewall, or when I "make" a new sheet metal "panel" for the floor I would have to make a change in the shape of the floor near the trans hump, but I figured I wanted to avoid both, so what I did was turn the gas pedal slightly sideways, which is the same orientation the original pedal was positioned, to make room for the trans hump, so after managing to make sheet metal formed Into a suitable floor panel, with no metal break to fold it, and no work bench, good vice, and no welder, I got the new gas pedal Installed, and it's connected to the throttle but it's a little rough, but it's working, but is uncomfortable! No shop I talked to wanted to take on my job for the floor piece, so I had to make it myself, it's not ideal and I look forward to getting it fixed properly one day. Ya'll can take a look at the video journal documenting that work on my YouTube channel for the rambler, the gas pedal is pt.89, the sheet metal work is pt.88, pt.1,2,3 and pt.4
"1958 AMC Rambler Super pt.89"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2021 at 10:42am
I had to drill and file a new hole when I installed mine to get the pedal positioned properly. The cable I used snapped into a square hole in the firewall. I drilled a hole a bit smaller and used a square file to file corners out.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1958 rambler super Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2021 at 3:19pm
So your talking about making a square hole for the plastic clip that secures the end of the cable to throttle bracket? With the set up on my rambler, the throttle bracket is close to the carb, so putting the plastic clip way back at the firewall would have lots of throttle cable to the carb, and the throttle cable kit I bought, a mr.gasket kit, has two fittings that secure that end to the firewall.
we must have diff dimensions to be negotiating. Unless I don't get the idea your describing.


Edited by 1958 rambler super - Oct/24/2021 at 3:27pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2021 at 5:16pm
No not the carb end of the cable, the firewall/pedal end. My cable is a 1988 Jeep Cherokee cable. The cable housing secures to the firewall with a square plastic clip, as do most modern cars. The cable itself literally just goes through the firewall -- no real bracket on the pedal end, just the hole in the firewall securing the housing. The other end on mine does snap into a bracket, but since I'm using a 4.0L from a Cherokee that just snaps in.

I've modified factory cables like the one I have several times. I use the factory pedal and make the firewall hole as I described. The other end depends on the carb and cable. You have to figure out where and how the cable secures to the carb first. After that the end of the cable is secured to some sort of bracket. One I recall had a snap in plastic end. It was a round hole with a slot at the top to slide the cable through as the cable end wouldn't go through the hole. Another had no obvious way to mount, just a hard "nose" on the end of the cable. For both I bent a piece of 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick steel bar to shape. The one with the hole got a hole and slot, the other was secured with a pipe clamp. Not pretty, but functional. Any type of clamp that will hold the end in place and not clamp down so much as to restrict cable movement works. I drilled the other end to fit an intake bolt (or a bolt in the intake if there was a free threaded boss). Just bent as needed to get the correct height and distance from the carb.

You just have to be a little creative! The only requirements are that the cable end is secure on the carb lever, the cable housing end is secured and it nor the bracket moves when pedal is pressed, cable has enough movement to fully open and close the carb. Same on the other end, except with the pedal.
Frank Swygert
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