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61 Alum 6 Start Up, Carb and Oil Light |
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Softbuster 
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Joined: Nov/08/2014 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 116 |
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 Posted: Oct/07/2021 at 8:46pm |
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For the carburetor, it could just be that your idle circuit is clogged (if you are into working on your own carburetor). Online videos are very helpful.
If were me, (you do what you want to) i'd figure out Where to pour oil in like TomJ said. Pull each spark plug out and use a snake camera (a cheap one that plugs into someones phone) to check each cylinder for crap. Use a spray can of carburetor cleaner spraying down the throat of the carb (use safety equip in case it coughs back on fire) it should run on a continuous stream. If it runs and works, send it. Drive it everyday or as often as you can until it quits.
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85 Eagle sedan rescue project
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7553 |
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Posted: Oct/07/2021 at 10:43pm |
I realized later I probably sounded really negative. Lol, I guess I am! Even the iron motors, they're very prone to problems when they've sat for a long time. heck, they're prone to problems when you treat them OK -- because they are old-world motors with old-world expectations. No one intended 200K engines 60 years ago. 100K was OLD! I'd jsut be very careful, and be open to weirdness, like liquids in the wrong place (oil in water and vicey-verser). Sheesh, can you even pop a head off one of those without it being major surgery? Pushrod tube seals? Headgaskets? How would you keep the cast-in cylinders from ringing when you grind/the mill the "deck"? There's no deck? I do know someone who builds those aluminum jobs but he's on FaceBlob only, not the forum. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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tomj
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Posted: Oct/07/2021 at 10:48pm |
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Carb: follow the rebuild kit for your carb. Better than the factory manual here.
On my page here, though I apologize, this page and others are really chaotic right now, it's due for a large edit. https://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/195.6ohv/OILING/index.html Subset of this: https://www.sr-ix.com/AMC/195.6ohv/index.html These are really old antique motors. The days when you could bump start old cars found behind the barn and drive them around are well behind us. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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Capt. John
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Joined: Sep/17/2021 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 26 |
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Posted: Oct/08/2021 at 9:33am |
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Thanks, I'm and old guy now (71) but built a few Chevy hot rods in the 60's so this motor looks the way I'm used to seeing a motor. I'll try the Carb cleaner. I'd probably lose a spring or two if I disassemble! So I'll keep tinkering. Also going to pull hose and check fuel flow. Plus get some oil into the oil pump to prime it. got some neat ideas for this 100% AMERICAN MADE GEM!
Semper Paratus Capt. John Motelguy@protonmail.com
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Capt. John
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Joined: Sep/17/2021 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 26 |
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Posted: Oct/10/2021 at 7:51pm |
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Big News Update for all on this thread!
Oil Pressure Light - I removed the top hex bolt on the oil pump that holds a spring beneath it and poured about 2 oz. of gear oil in to help prime the oil pump. Carburator * Sprayed throat and external orifices with liberal dose of Carb Cleaner. * Removed fuel line, removed needle valve fitting and sprayed Carb Cleaner into float chamber. Next used small hose and funnel to fill float chamber with 50/50 Sea Foam and gas and let sit over night. * Attached hose and can to fuel line, pulled coil wire and did 3-10 sec cranks. Got fuel flow on the 3rd crank. Reattached fuel line, coil wire, primed carb with about 1 oz of fuel and voila, she fired and ran without stopping. AND the Oil Light Went Out and ran without a knock! I'd call that a successful fire up of a 5 year dormant motor! I did not want to push it by revving so I shutout down after about 2 minutes of idle. Rings, Lifters etc need to loosen up I'm sure. Before I engage auto trans and attempt backing out of garage I want to address today's fuel in this 1961 alum six. Do I need a lead additive and octane booster? I don't plan on any long distance highway driving. Just short trips into town 5 miles away, top speed 45 mph. Transmission - Any thoughts before rollout? Brakes - Lines look relatively new and I do have some pedal. Thanks for any all advice. Capt John (old 60's gear head )
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689 |
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Posted: Nov/01/2021 at 5:43am |
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Priming the oil pump surely didn't hurt! The pump on the 196 sits at an angle and generally has some oil in it. Priming of a pump that has some oil in it isn't necessary. Vaseline is used to pack a new pump because it's dry. If it has some residual oil in it from running previously it will pump up in a second or two -- otherwise you couldn't leave it parked for long or change the oil without priming. It may not have enough oil in it after sitting for years though, so getting some in there (and GOOD oil, not old stuff that might be questionable) was a very good idea! If you can get oil in the pump any other way (like running a newer model with a drill -- can't do that with a 196, pump drives directly off the camshaft) you don't have to pack the pump. On a 196 you can remove any plug from the main oil gallery and fill the gallery and pump with oil, or enough oil, to get it to pump up easily. Since the 196 pump is external it's easy to get the cover off -- so packing it is easy and works well.
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Frank Swygert
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Capt. John
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Joined: Sep/17/2021 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 26 |
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Posted: Nov/01/2021 at 8:34pm |
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Thanks for the reply and info Frank. I really appreciate it. Now that I have it running I'm experiencing a new problem.
Fuel Drainback? If the cars sits for a few days fuel seems to drain back out of the clear fuel filter. My temp fix is to detach the house and use a long hose to suck some fuel up to the filter and quickly reattach to the fuel pump. It works. Cause: Loss hose clamps? Solution: I think hoping tightening the hose clamps will help. Well see,
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tomj
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Posted: Nov/02/2021 at 8:48pm |
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Drainback: bad fuel pump check valves probably, or/and cracked and leaking diaphragm. Smell the oil dipstick; if you smell gas, stop. The last thing an old engine needs is diluted oil with grit etc loosened by a solvent.
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689 |
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Posted: Nov/03/2021 at 5:35am |
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I thought it could be the check valve. You can get in-line check valves from Amazon. One for about $8, but you can find a two-pack for $10, three for $12. This is for a 5/16" line, which is what most cars use (all AMCs use 5/16" fuel lines that I know of). As Tom says, check for gasoline in the oil first! Either by smell or if the oil level mysteriously comes up. The latter would only happen with a really bad leaking diaphragm -- gasoline evaporates more with heat in the engine and the thin oil leaks/burns a bit quicker. I bought a car once with a 258 that had a bad leak in the fuel pump. It was apparently spraying gasoline inside -- washed the oil off a rod bearing (I think #2... whichever is adjacent to pump boss) and caused a bad knock. I bought it not running, timing chain off. Ended up junking the old Concord. Got it cheap, spent the money to pull the pan and tried an oversize bearing (still enough clearance for a knock, which I suspected, but for a few bucks worth a try...), but not worth pulling crank and putting a crank kit in. Local salvage yard gave a flat rate if you drove it in. They did, but told me right up front they wouldn't get anything for that car.... they expect to sell a motor out of a drive-in, but that knock... Lucky I only had to drive it 10 minutes!!
Edited by farna - Nov/03/2021 at 5:42am |
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Frank Swygert
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tomj
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Posted: Nov/03/2021 at 11:10pm |
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two things:
a diaphragm pump is a diaphragm that moves inside a chamber, up/down or something, to change the volume of the chamber. There is a check valve on the inlet (from the tank) and one on the outlet (to the carb) and so the chamber volume changing draws fuel from the tank and pushes it to the carb. Adding an external check valve won't fix a bad pump. Each pump check valve itself is a thin flat disc about 1/2" diameter, that lays over a hole, and has a cage over it, or a rubber nipple, or something, to allow it to move off the hole in one direction, but press over the hole, in the other. I don't know why they seem to be failing more often today than in the past. "bad gas" is the boogieman but we have artificial rubbers that easily handle it. The other thing is, depending on the carburetor type -- the craptacular little Holley 1 bbls, fire hazards all, and other designs, often leak gasoline externally (hence fire hazard). Some designs leak gasoline inwardly, into the manifold. Not good, but at least not a fire hazard. I didn't think the design allowed it, but my old Carter YF seems to be having drained-bowl symptoms and it's definitely internal, if so. Cars this old, I stopped trying to find each problem in turn, and instead, assume every single component has already failed. I'm serious. I never, ever use an old carb, distributor, generator, alternator, anything, without a partial disassemble at least. Carbs, just buy a kit for it and tear it down. The chance of an old, found carb being drivable dropped to Lottery ticket chance years ago. I'm not a cynical person! This stuff is ooooold! When I was a kid I thought my father's friend's Model As and Ts were so old! They were maybe 30, 40 years old. My Rambler is 62 years old. If an old part is still good, it's a miracle. Or more likely, I haven't seen the failure yet! These aren't old cars, they are as old as antique cars ever were and were still highway-capable. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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Capt. John wrote: