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York AC compressor |
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fts1966
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jun/02/2018 Location: Kansas city MO Status: Offline Points: 123 |
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Posted: Jun/09/2018 at 9:58pm |
our 1969 rambler wagon has the York R12 system still in tack and working pretty well, father in-law still has R 12 so we did a bit of a top off today. Is there a way to keep the original compressor and convert it over to 134A.
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george w
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/27/2013 Location: New Jersey Status: Offline Points: 2899 |
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Keep using the R-12 as long as you can. It works best in these systems. To convert, the compressor can be reused but the system will require a total flush, compressor oil drain and replace with the proper oil and a new receiver dryer and it won't cool nearly as well.
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Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Pdok
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Apr/03/2011 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1025 |
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So far, I've stayed with R-12, or R-12 alternatives too. The R-12 alternatives I've used are Autofrost and Freeze12. I used the Freeze12 in a 71 Dodge truck, factory AC w/York compressor, and it was ridiculously cold, even in Oklahoma summer.
I've had Autofrost in two systems, my 69 Chevy truck, also a York, and my Gremlin (when it was a York). Also very cold, put my 2002 Yukon factory system to shame. Could freeze you to the seat...almost. Last place I bought autofrost was refrigerantsinc.com. You'll need your EPA ticket. I've also used ES-12, which I started with on my Chevy truck. I don't think I charged it correctly, because I had doubtful results, and I've heard many people w/ good results. Anyway, I changed back to Autofrost because I had a case of it, and had to open up the system anyway. I'm contemplating R-134 now that my Gremlin is on a Denso compressor. Probably key factor is that the R-12 condensor (may) be undersized for R-134. I've heard people claim yes/no/both on that, but never put it to the test. Another factor to consider is that the expansion valve (under the dash somewhere near the evap) will have R-12 in it. Best practice is to swap in one with R-134 if the system is charged with 134. It will still work if you don't though.
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76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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S Curry
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/16/2012 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 598 |
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Source for conversion. https://www.apairinc.com/
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SC
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6768rogues
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6241 |
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If you convert it, consider using a Sanden type compressor and a modern aluminum parallel flow condenser (biggest one that will fit), and of course, a new dryer and expansion valve. Then it will work like new and won't use much power or vibrate. All that said, if it ain't broken don't fix it.
Edited by 6768rogues - Jun/25/2018 at 1:37pm |
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Bruce Clarkson
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/09/2013 Location: New Bern, NC Status: Offline Points: 538 |
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I cut my old York- based A/C over to R134 on my 67 Ambassador. I did not disassemble or do much with the evaporator (was scared to take it apart). I did clean out what I could, replaced to receiver/drier, fill connections and compressor oil. Although I expected this to be a stop gap measure it's been working well for several years. That said, to York compressor will let you know it's running- particularly at an idle. Anything else might be smoother. But it will cool as well as I could expect.
BTW you'll want less R134 than the amount of R12 that was specified. Bruce Clarkson |
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Bruce Clarkson
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CamJam
Moderator Group Joined: Jan/04/2014 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 6553 |
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I'm running my York on R-134a too. Replaced the old hoses (supposedly the molecules of R134a are smaller so best to replace them), and had the dryer rebuilt. Requires R134 compatible oil in the compressor as well. Not terribly hard to do. Most automotive a/c shops can make the new hoses for you.
You're supposed to replace the expansion valve too, but I was afraid to do it for fear of breaking the copper tubing that goes to the evaporator. That would be a major PITA as it's all under the dash. Mine seems to work fine with the old expansion valve.
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'73 Javelin 360 (current project)
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST '69 Big Bad Orange AMX (2018 Teague Heritage Award) SOLD |
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dltowers
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Dec/12/2012 Location: Friendswood, TX Status: Offline Points: 5827 |
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My vote is to "Stick with the one that brung you"....
If the old York is still pumping out cool air with R-12, I say leave it alone!
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Original Owner, 1974 Javelin:
360ci,2v,727TC. Motorola Multiplex with 8-Track. G4 Plum exterior with 421Q Black Uganda Interior. Purchased on July 16, 1974 from Hooker AMC, Sherman, TX for $4500.20 |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692 |
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If the seals on the York have never been changed you may need to change those for R-134A as well. As stated, you need "barrier" hoses for R-134A as the molecules are smaller than R-12 and it will ever so slowly seep through the old hoses. Not only that but the old non compatible (with R-134a) oil is saturated in the old hoses as well. Conversion kits usually have the required seals. The R-12 replacements usually don't require different hoses. As long as you have a stock of R-12 I'd run it. I've used ES-12 with good results, and also still have the R-12 expansion valve in my hybrid 63 system. I'm running a 4.0L and the stock Jeep Sanden type compressor (had to replace it 2-3 years ago, was an 88 model), Chrysler LH (93-04 big car) parallel flow condensor (had to fab mounting brackets, but it's the right size for an AMC), and the 63 factory evaporator and expansion valve. I had hoses made with flare fitting for the evaporator and o-ring fittings for everything under the hood, just use a universal drier.
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Frank Swygert
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Pdok
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Apr/03/2011 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1025 |
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York service valves are notorious leakers, and are pretty cheap to buy new. About a thousand varieties so check carefully or call the place to order so you get what you need. Yesterday I just charged my Denso-based (Grand Cherokee comp) system with the Industrial ES-12, and it's now a meat locker. Driving around in 92 deg, 80% humidity, it was so cold I had to turn the fan down and also put the compressor knob at the mid-point. Low side runs about 25 psi. I don't have a high side fitting, but I'd imagine pretty low there too. Enviro-safe has two variants, the regular stuff and the "industrial" stuff. The main difference is the industrial stuff is recommended for charging into a vacuum, or on larger systems. I have no idea why anyone would let air into the system to remove a vacuum prior to charging, but that's what they say. So, I bought the industrial version and pulled the vacuum because it felt like the right thing to do. I'll bet you don't need to swap condensors with ES. Mine is the stock condensor and no issues. I'd continue to use mineral oil, unless you've already purged and bought a new drier. Then I'd switch to PAG (at the right visc for your compressor), so you can basically use any modern refrigerant.
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76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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