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XJ6 ifs/irs |
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Raccoonman
AMC Nut Joined: Dec/11/2016 Location: North Charlesto Status: Offline Points: 447 |
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Dang, I need to read more closely. Did you do a Jag swap on the front, too? I'm pretty confident that the 232 will run well but I am looking at swapping in the Jag engine if possible.
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motorhead_1
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2014 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 1007 |
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what series xj6 are you planning for the swap? the later S3 has slightly better suspension geometry and steering as well as better brakes than the s1/s2.
you may want late xjs rear with out board rear disc. MUCH easier to service
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69 SC/Rambler tribute 401/th400, 68 Rebel SST LSA, 66 F100 460/c6, 88 Merkur Xr4Ti, 71 Jaguar XJ6 LS1, 08 Supercharged Tundra
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689 |
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I haven't used the Jag front suspension, but have talked to a few hot rodders who have used it in other cars. They don't mention any issues once you get it installed.
The late Jag IRS has outboard brakes that are easier to service, but mounts totally different than the 61-89 XJ6 type. The "new" one came out in 1986 for the XJ40, but the XJ6 Series 3 continued to use the older type for a few more years. It shouldn't be hard to mount the newer type in another car, just not as easy as the old. Main reason is the old type was designed specifically to fit where a live axle used to be. The newer type was designed for a specific body. I don't know about track width on the newer type. New type has a crossmember that bolts to the front of the differential (instead of on top) and mounts low on the body, about even with the driveshaft hub on the pinion shaft front to back, about even with the bottom of the differential top to bottom. There are two strut rods that mount to the body at the rear. The big problem is the springs and shocks. Instead of four only two coil over shocks are used (saves some cost there!), but they have specific mounts on the body. You'd have to make a crossmember for the upper coil over support. Wouldn't be hard to do, and new longer rear struts would probably use the old shock mount points just fine. Look at my post on mounting the older type -- just 8 pieces of 4"x6" flat plate and a few bolts and you're in! |
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Frank Swygert
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Raccoonman
AMC Nut Joined: Dec/11/2016 Location: North Charlesto Status: Offline Points: 447 |
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What I have is the remains of a 1974 Series 2. It has the inboard brakes, which are brand new; the front needs new calipers but they're dead easy to source and work on. I wish I could say that about the rear, but history says that the rears wear much more slowly than the front and require replacement far less. It's said that the parking brake pads are almost a lifetime part.... we'll see about that. I have all of the brake system from that car from the master cylinder out, actually, as I recently replaced the master and figured I may as well scavenge everything I could, thinking of a swap along these lines. I did the calipers and pads on the rear; the only way it's really possible is to drop the rear axle as a unit. That's really not as horrible as it sounds; eight mount bolts, four driveshaft bolts, one brake line and the parking brake cable, and whatever exhaust is in the way if you run it through the cage, and the two radius arms. Keeping the cage upright while fettling the brakes is tricky if you're working on the ground.
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Raccoonman
AMC Nut Joined: Dec/11/2016 Location: North Charlesto Status: Offline Points: 447 |
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Of course, having the parts on hand and actually tearing into the car to change everything out is relative to how well the stock parts are functioning once I get my hands on the Rambler. This may all be null and void if what's there is perfectly fine, and I may be putting some Jag stuff up for sale!
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689 |
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I ran my exhaust above the cage since I had room there. It tucks rather tightly under the Jag and exhaust runs through the cage. I've replaced the rotors with the axle in the car, but from a rack where you could get to it. Still not fun!
Brake PADs are easy to change, its' just the rotors that take a bit of work. Park brake is hardly used -- unless you take off multiple times with park brake partially engaged they should last forever. The only real issue with the Jag IRS is the seals on the diff stub axles. They are right behind the rotors and tend to get "heat treated". With the diff lower in the body on the Rambler they should get better cooling -- more air flow. If there are any signs of leaks or you don't know if they have ever been replaced, I'd replace those seals when you pull the axle out. There is a procedure to get pre-load correct on the bearings, but I had no problem just tightening back by "feel". IIRC they are similar to a pinion shaft, but don't have the load a pinion shaft does. Mine had plastic plugs on top of the outer bearing housings, one was missing (junkyard find). I drilled and tapped the holes for a pipe plug when I replaced the bearings and seals in the them. As long as the holes are plugged it's fine though. Mine came from an 87 XJ6. |
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Frank Swygert
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