Won’t idle

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   I have a 68 javelin with a 232 6 cylinder. I took theThe head off to take it to a machine shop to have a broken bolt removed. I put it back together and now it won’t idle. When I rev the engine I can hear a high pitch 
sound like a fan belt but I know it’s not. And it backfired sometimes out of the carb. My guess it’s sucking air into the intake manifold. I used a gasket that I purchased from the amc store that had both intake and exhaust openings. I have a intake gasket only left over. Should I had used the intake gasket along with the exhaust gasket also?

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electrictech Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/17/2013 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 115	Post Options Post Reply Quote electrictech Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Won’t idle Posted: May/07/2019 at 6:43pm
	I have a 68 javelin with a 232 6 cylinder. I took the The head off to take it to a machine shop to have a broken bolt removed. I put it back together and now it won’t idle. When I rev the engine I can hear a high pitch sound like a fan belt but I know it’s not. And it backfired sometimes out of the carb. My guess it’s sucking air into the intake manifold. I used a gasket that I purchased from the amc store that had both intake and exhaust openings. I have a intake gasket only left over. Should I had used the intake gasket along with the exhaust gasket also?

purple72Gremlin Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 16614	Post Options Post Reply Quote purple72Gremlin Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/07/2019 at 6:51pm
	sounds like a vacuum leak......and did you have the manifolds nachined? Usually...they warp...and wont seal....vaccum leak.....

1970390amx Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/11/2008 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 3314	Post Options Post Reply Quote 1970390amx Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/07/2019 at 7:03pm
	Without seeing the gaskets that come off I would say you needed to use both gaskets that were in the set. As was pointed out above you really need to check the gasket surface with a straight edge and make sure its flat.
	1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX 1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: May/07/2019 at 9:23pm
	what those guys say is it. the later replacement gaskets, Felpro, etc, were the two-piece set, that solves a lot of problems with the OEM gaskets. there is a recommended procedure (aka mandatory procedure!) for installing them that's different from the stock set, because they are different thicknesses and stack differently. the two manifolds are bolted together, and need to be loosened because their relative position shifts (by the thickness of one of the gaskets). this has it's own set of complications of course as the studs are heat-rusted in etc. (i own a can of Permatex nickel anti-seize due to the 232 manifold set). i suggest taking both manifolds, taken apart, to a machine shop and have them slap 'em on the big belt sander. it's lousy for heads but perfect for manifolds. this stuff is 50 years old, long gone are the days you can just slap new gaskets in. in my experience all of this stuff each takes a whole day's worth to bring it up to standard. i find this pleasant (when ou get to plan for it!). but i'm weird.
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/10/2019 at 7:21am
	There is a tightening sequence for the manifolds. Scroll down to about the middle of this page: https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Jeep-CJ-Scrambler-1971-1986-Repair-Guide/ENGINE-MECHANICAL/Intake-Manifold/_/P-0900c1528004aec5 As noted by TomJ, you will find that the four bolts that hold the manifolds together are the LAST ones to be tightened. You may not need to remove the manifolds at this point -- just loosen all the bolts, tighten in sequence, ans see what happens. If that fails you'll need to pull off and start over, maybe with a new gasket. The exhaust manifold is especially prone to warping, so having them surfaced at a machine shop before reinstalling is a good idea... doesn't hurt the intake either, as it can warp over time also.
	Frank Swygert

electrictech Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/17/2013 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 115	Post Options Post Reply Quote electrictech Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/11/2019 at 2:05pm
	Thanks everyone for the advice. I use the intake manifold gasket that came with kit and that solve the issue.

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/12/2019 at 10:49pm
	good! we've all probably done this job twice, like you did! and more than one time. it's a lot of surface area to get zero-leak, and with old metal. glad it worked out.
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com