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Wiring issues |
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Schwalls
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/08/2007 Location: Des Moines, IA Status: Offline Points: 233 |
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Posted: Nov/28/2007 at 2:24pm |
Well, I am now to the point of getting all of the electrical working in my 69 Rambler. Currently the problems are
1. dash lights not working
2. dome light will not shut off
3. need to install the trunk light
4. get the horn working
Two dash bulbs are burnt out, two more are missing the socket and bulb all together. I will be getting 9 new bulbs tomorrow for the dash lights, searching for 2 more dash light sockets. If anyone has these sockets let me know..... I am searching for them now...I know there is power to the main plug as I have already tested that.
Next the dome light..........Switch could be bad. Door switches could be bad......otherwise I have no idea what is going on with this. Anyone have any ideas??
I have already fixed the hack job a previous owner did to the alternator wiring. It had been hacked up and they had actually used speaker wire to connect some of the alternator. All of that is now soldered and fixed with the correct gauge wire.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott |
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Scott
64 American Convertible 360 5sp http://www.schwallers.com/AMCpage.htm |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Dome lights on could be two things. The door switches on the old Ramblers grounded a wire to turn on the lights. Wasn't uncommon for one of those wires to get pinched and cause them to stay on. Check for a grounded wire somewhere along the path to the switches or to the dome light itself.........
They also turn on with the light switch (all the way counter-clockwise), so you might check your light switch and wiring in that area.
I MAY have a couple spare sockets - I suspect they are the same as used on the later Eagle console gauges, and also might have some in a drawer but will need to look.......
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KermitDRambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/06/2007 Location: Cincinnati, OH Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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The light sockets can be had at an auto parts store. Factory ones are better. Also, the dash grounds in the engine compartment near the blower motor. Make sure that screw is tight and the terminals are clean. Horns could be a couple of things. You have some wiring, a relay, a switch in the steering wheel, and the horns themselves. The horns ground through the radiator support. The relay grounds through the switch in the steering wheel. Open the hood and put your head next to the relay (it's on the drivers side shock tower near the voltage regulator) and have someone push the horn button. If the relay clicks, it's either the horn wiring, a ground problem, or the horns are bad. If the relay doesn't click, it's either the relay or the switch and it's wiring. A test light comes in handy testing the horn circuit. If you don't have one, spend the money on a TSM. They come in very handy when you're trying to de-hack a car. In the mean time, I have a 1968 wiring diagram on my site (http://www.mattsoldcars.com) which should help you out. Matt
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Schwalls
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/08/2007 Location: Des Moines, IA Status: Offline Points: 233 |
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Ok....now i have pulled all of ther wiring to all of the interior lights(two lights below the dash, dome light, and trunk light). I have also pulled out the power wire, and the two wires which go to the door jam switches. All wires look fine. I can't find any issues........The only think i can think is that the problem is the actual switch itself......however, i also tried a spare switch that i have........I am stumped.....Anyone have any ideas?
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Scott
64 American Convertible 360 5sp http://www.schwallers.com/AMCpage.htm |
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poormansMACHINE
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: Shoemaker-Levy9 Status: Offline Points: 12302 |
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If you pull the switch, it should be easy to spot trouble.
The rheostat portion that controls dash and dome is exposed. Not much there. Wirewound coil resistor and a wiper/contact. |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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I suspect light switch, then...........
You are sure that when you pulled the wires, you didn't fix the issue simply by virtue of pulling a pinched or scraped wire away from metal?
Check insulation CAREFULLY.
The door switches are incredibly simple - the button moves out and allows the contact that the wire is connected to to make connection with the body of the switch, thus the car body. Sort of like the wire for the parking brake light - it's simply a ground that moves to metal when triggered.
Yes, the headlight switch (also controls interior and dash lights) is pretty exposed when you pull it out, and could be checked with a VOM or continuity light if you don't "see" anything.
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Schwalls
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/08/2007 Location: Des Moines, IA Status: Offline Points: 233 |
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Ok...I got the dome lights figured out....Hate to admit this but the only thing wrong was an incorrect type of bulb in the dome light causing it to short.
Now i am no to the dash lights.....
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Scott
64 American Convertible 360 5sp http://www.schwallers.com/AMCpage.htm |
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6668 |
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Two common failures for dash lights is:
1. The rheostat in the headlight switch. The wiper gets corroded and doesn't make good contact. I cleaned the contact point on mine with a little big of sandpaper. 2. A bad ground in the cluster. If your park/tail lights are working it's not the fuse. |
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Scott it's amazing what talking through things can do!
Man-made issues are the toughest to troubleshoot, in anything from cars to computers to humans. Natural failures are by far the easiest.
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