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windshield trim question for prof. body techs

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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: windshield trim question for prof. body techs
    Posted: May/24/2012 at 8:07am
Subject car is 1982 Eagle - but could be any AMC of that era.
Windshield trim.

I had the windshield replaced and sealed in my SX/4 a few months back. No leaks - that part is fine, but I notice now after having to pull some trim to access a fender tack weld that although they replaced the plastic clips for the trim, the clips didn't hold and they used urethane all over to glue the trim in place. What a crock, what a @#$ of a mess. I had an h of a time removing the trim, and now after cleaning the crap, er, urethane out of the clips and channel, the trim will not stay put - not even come close to staying put.
The clips don't appear to have as sharp an edge inside where the trim should be held, they look the same as the originals, but somehow different. Further, the trim is messed up in areas. Some they did, some I did trying to get it to stay put last night as I was just furious over the mess they made.
I mean really - a 5 year old would glue it like they did, a professional should have cleaned it up and used quality clips and made the trim stay put with clips. What if it had leaked and they had needed to remove the trim again in a month?? I almost bent and distorted it getting it out of the urethane.

So my question is - what is the proper solution now? What clips WILL work? The AMC clips although folks say are Ford and looks almost exactly like Ford seem to be just ever-so-slightly different.
What can be used?
How can I make the trim stay put using clips only?
I'm so mad at them I can't even think logically now. It was the most unprofessional mess I've seen in a while.
I spent time cleaning urethane off the body outside of the trim area when I got the car back, I guess that and the tape should have been my first clue that I needed to look further.

And to top it off, when I pulled the trim, I noted the bottom pieces were not as rigid - they had used blocks that were too tall, stuck up from the body too far and used snips to trim the trim on the bottom so it would clear the blocks. Properly, the blocks should have set lower and the trim already has clearance notches in it from the factory - their blocks were bigger and in slightly different locations. They obviously didn't do any dry fitting before putting those blocks in and apply the urethane, and when they went to set the trim in, it wouldn't fit so they cut it.

I've contacted their main headquarters (they are a small private regional corporation) and will be stopping by their local location to have a chat and show them what an unprofessional job it was.

Now I've got to figure out how to make it right so I can have trim around the windshield again.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hassyfoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2012 at 8:47am
Hey Bill,
I am by no means defending, I get just as disgusted as you are, but the glass industry in general, has been using urethane to glue the glass moulding into cars for as long as I can remember. I even recall back in the 70's when glass was still installed into a gasket, the glass shops would ( apply silicone or adhesive) to seal the windows.  The old rubber gaskets were know to leak from the factory.
So, now you have technicians that only know how to install glass on a bead of urethane. Two, glass shops do not carry or install new clips ( would be nice if they told you you needed clips). Three, the glass installers typically don't want to stop mid-job & wait for you to order clips and travel back to the location of the car.
Again, I am by no means defending, I am simply stating the glass industry standards ( be what they may)
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
A couple of things with the mouldings and clips. It was always recommended that the clips should be replaced. The clips are usually bent ( however so minor) upon removal of the mouldings. The clips loose that tight clasp onto the mouldings. Also in many cases the lip of the moulding is slightly bent upon installation onto the car. Look closely as many times you can see a slight bend or distortion of the lip. Repair the lip so that is straight again. Since this area is hidden upon reinstallation, it's not a big deal to have some minor marks from the repair.  I have a small toe dolly and a jewelers hammer for this type of work. +++++++ now we just discussed the first type of damages to the lip of the moudling. The next type of damage(s) to the lip of the moulding; the entire area of the lip ( several inches on both sides of the location of were the clip holds the moulding) can be slightly bent. This happens when the clip removal tool is placed under the moulding and the moulding is pryed upward. The moulding will bend at the location of the 90 degree bend of the moulding. This damage is much harder to see until the moudling is installed & upon installation  the molding is no longer tight against the glass.
As far as clips, most mouldings are made pretty much the same. I have used clips made for Fords on my AMC and they have worked perfectly. I completed a side to side match up of clips. As long as the height was correct and the depth of the buldge that holds the moulding was correct, the clip(s) will function correctly.  As already stated, the damaged mouldings must be repaired first, otherwise new clips or not, the mouldings will not fit correctly
The last area of damaged to look for, it the stud that is welded to the car. In some cases this can be damaged or bent upon removal of the glass, mouldings or clips. The stud can be damaged or the area of the metal on the car were the stud attaches can be slightly bent. Although this is not as critical as the other issues, this can cause the clips to sit too tight against the car body or too far away from the body. Either way the clips does not function as needed.
Again, on cars with plastic clips, the recommendation is replacement with the glass. Most of the smae reasons apply. Plastic becomes brittle and plastic can stretch out of shape, thus the clips does not function as designed.
Murphy's Law:

Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73hornut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2012 at 9:01am
Use ford metal clips Bill.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2012 at 9:43am
  The windshield has to be spaced the right distance from the pinch weld for the clips to hold.
 
  Too tick a bead and you can't push the trim down enough to catch the clips.   Too thin of a bead of urethane,  and there won't be enough pressure on the trim to keep it attached to the clips.
 
  Most cars use a 3/8 bead,  but it takes some experience to keep a consistant 3/8s bead coming out of the gun.
  Most of these places don't pay their help very well,  so they're constantly retraining new people.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2012 at 9:49am
I told them when I called for the appointment what the car was, and they needed to be prepared with clips, however, over half the clips were still good. They are nylon so don't get bent, and don't rust. They sometimes break with age.

The posts or studs are like new - remember, rust free CA car. Posts not an issue. They are perfect.

The trim lip is distorted in areas, but it's the face of the trim that gets me, and of course the fact the idiots cut it with dull snips instead if lining up the blocks like I do. I set the trim in place, mark where the blocks would line up with the trim recesses. They plopped big blocks in place and then cut the trim.
(I'd have been happier, in fact a LOT happier, and fact, quite pleased, if they had done the glass and said "we have some problems with the trim and suggest you may wish to handle that yourself")

I still have issue with gluing the trim in with that urethane crap - it is tough as nails - and what if the thing had leaked and they needed to remove the trim? What would they have done?? Bent it to bits is what. "common practice" does not make something right. It's a cheater's way out. Do it right.
Sure they save a buck, don't have to stock parts - but there are the "what-ifs", if the trim has to come off again, you are totally screwed, and they would be too had I complained of a leak.

I may have to move to the metal Ford clips. I know those work, I have a few on the Javelin, but not sure if they work with the late cars.
It's going to take some HOURS to clean up their mess of urethane on the posts and in that channel - that's another problem - there's so much goo the trim can't possible fit back in.
Now I know what the green painters tape was all about - geesh, painters tape won't hold trim in place while urethane sets - thus, the trim was never really down in the spot it was supposed to be and stuck up a good 1/4 inch at the top, and there was a big gap between the right side trim and the glass. Very unprofessional. That sort of tape doesn't have strong adhesive, not enough to hold sprung trim in place.

Regardless of their (in my mind anyway) 'screw-ups' and my opinion on doing it right, or doing it fast and easy - I need to find a way to get it fixed.

I have no body tools for shaping such things, any attempt I'm certain will show more damage than good. I don't really have a good way to get the trim "adjusted" back to shape, and aside from metal clips (will they work on late cars and late trim types?) am not sure what to do.
Maybe I'll have to try the metal clips - they sure hold on the Javelin (I set that glass myself)

IF I CAN FIND IT, I should have the trim I pulled from my parts SX/4, so I might be ok there...... the trim if I recall was pretty nice - and guess what - that windshield had been pulled and reset many years ago, and it was only clips that held the trim. Whoever did that parts car of mine many moons ago, did it quite nicely. My tool easily released the trim from the clips.
My issue now is that I pulled that trim a year ago, and like my car keys and phone each day, can't find it. It's an ADHD thing - set something down, put it in a safe place you will remember, then turn to answer the phone, and can't find the item you held just 3 minutes ago.


Edited by billd - May/24/2012 at 9:53am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2012 at 9:55am
Originally posted by tyrodtom tyrodtom wrote:

  The windshield has to be spaced the right distance from the pinch weld for the clips to hold.
 
  Too tick a bead and you can't push the trim down enough to catch the clips.   Too thin of a bead of urethane,  and there won't be enough pressure on the trim to keep it attached to the clips.
 
  Most cars use a 3/8 bead,  but it takes some experience to keep a consistant 3/8s bead coming out of the gun.
  Most of these places don't pay their help very well,  so they're constantly retraining new people.



I wonder if that's part of the issue - I compare this to the parts car, and I see quite a difference. The parts car glass sits closer to the pinch weld. I noted that when I tried to put the trim back last night, I was pushing with all I could, afraid to break the glass, and the trim BARELY went into the clips and popped right back out again as soon as I let go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2012 at 1:24pm
I got an email from the company after explaining in detail how things looked, acted, what I did to try to correct things, how the trim didn't "stay" even when pushing it into the clips with enough pressure I was afraid of cracking the glass.

The fellow leaned toward tyrodtom's line of thought.....
he said "yeah, my thought was we would have to remove and reset the windshield.  I'm sure we can get clips that will work".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2012 at 6:57pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

Originally posted by tyrodtom tyrodtom wrote:

  The windshield has to be spaced the right distance from the pinch weld for the clips to hold.
 
  Too tick a bead and you can't push the trim down enough to catch the clips.   Too thin of a bead of urethane,  and there won't be enough pressure on the trim to keep it attached to the clips.
 
  Most cars use a 3/8 bead,  but it takes some experience to keep a consistant 3/8s bead coming out of the gun.
  Most of these places don't pay their help very well,  so they're constantly retraining new people.



I wonder if that's part of the issue - I compare this to the parts car, and I see quite a difference. The parts car glass sits closer to the pinch weld. I noted that when I tried to put the trim back last night, I was pushing with all I could, afraid to break the glass, and the trim BARELY went into the clips and popped right back out again as soon as I let go.
I would say that is the whole reason. I dont think any of the AMC car line used urethane from a tube/gun it was the rope (lack of a better word) type you rolled out onto the pinch weld and you reused the old rubber blocks.
That is how I did my 75 Gremlin front glass, no urethane from a tube/gun at all and it is still sealed 10 to 15 years later and the molding when on fine. It was ice & snow that pushed off 1 section many years after I installed the glass and it being outside year round for years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2012 at 7:14pm
AMC started using urethane in the late 70's,  or at least early 80's along with the rest of the industry.
 
  I remember working on a fairly new Eagle,  roof replacement,  the windshield I cut out was set in urethane.
 
  I've seen far more windshields and back windows,  loose in their openings ,  from butyl  than urethane,  and urethane is at least 4-5 times stronger,  but doesn't dry out and get inflexible as butyl.
 
The biggest disadvantage urethane has is it has to be dispensed from a tube,  and that with a sloppy installer can be a messy problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73hornut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2012 at 8:07pm
The black banded windshields were for urethane set. I prefer butyl if I can, but use urethane quite often. If the clips are in good shape they will hold the trim, even without a windshield. Whether you use butyl or urethane, the trick is to get the right set depth, so the trim will not set off the glass or be forced upward. Urethane takes a good thick bead, that will support the glass, without alot of force, without squishing too far to  the pinchweld. Butyl takes more force to get the butyl to squish to the proper width and depth, for good contact, without too much force to break the glass. Both require clean glass and pinchweld, so the oils from fingers or dust don't cause voids where the butyl or urethane fail to make good contact. The only problem with using butyl with a newer banded windshield, is you can't see through to see contact adhesion and spread. You just have to go from experience. BTW, on windshields I have to replace, I see worse rust issues from urethane installs then butyl.


Edited by 73hornut - May/24/2012 at 8:14pm
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