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Wilwood brake conversion. Hard peddle
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SirDigger View Drop Down
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Points: 2455 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SirDigger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2015 at 3:15am
Originally posted by 69 ambassador 390 69 ambassador 390 wrote:

Yes, you need more pressure and less voulume in the front but need the same as original in the back because of stock drums.  The adjustment on the Wilwoods is very imortant on the booster pushrod.  Just touching the piston.  Also look at your belcrank/mount.  They are usually seized at the pivot and need to be heated and pulled apart for service.  The shaft is straked in place at the square end and when it seizes, you only get a little travel before you run into hard pedal.  We find that 95% of all bellcrank/nounts are stuck.  If the shaft hasbeen turnning wher the square goes into the bracket, you have to tack weld it solid again.  Bolt it to a booster to keep it square and aligned when you weld.  You would not beleive how much better it will stop.


Sorry for asking a bit stupid(sometimes i lag a bit technical english),
but what exatly do you mean with belcrank? The Pedal Mount Thing?

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1970 Javelin SST 304
1970 Javelin SST 360
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mchaggis View Drop Down
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Points: 239 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mchaggis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2015 at 5:39am
Yup. The bit on the firewall that the booster bolts to.   If you still have yours you'll see that the booster isn't directly attached to the peddle and the leverage ratio (for want of a better description) is to a large extent determined in this area.

Hope that make sense?
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70 Donohue 390 View Drop Down
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Points: 4338 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70 Donohue 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2015 at 3:06pm
And don't forget the 5/8" spacers between the booster & the bracket.
67 Rogue 290 Convert

70 BBO 390 5 Speed Javelin-under construction
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SirDigger View Drop Down
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Points: 2455 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SirDigger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2015 at 1:08am
Which Spacers? 
As I have an molested Javelin, it may that i dont have these spacers...
Can anyone take some Pictures?

Drove it on the Trailer for the Ride to the Paintshop, Pedal feels not nice.

BTW Anyone an Idea were that Spring goes?


I´m pretty sure it belongs to the BrakePedalAssy, (my Brakelight are on when not on the Pedal) but i cant figure out were to hook it into.


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Points: 2455 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SirDigger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/26/2016 at 11:30am
My Problem is still there... and the spacers are in Place..
Maybe i adjusted the pushrod wrong? I did like described in the TSM
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Points: 239 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mchaggis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/26/2016 at 5:21pm
Update.  Brakes are much better.  I ended up talking to the New Zealand agent for Wilwood and he suggested the first thing to do is change the pads.  So I replaced the standard pads that came with the kit and installed a racing style Carbon Metallic pad (DL11 83 Metallic from Performancefriction.com) and the difference was unbelievable.  These new pads work great hot or cold so I finally have decent brakes but it seems that the old pads caused so much heat that my 11" rotors are cracked at the mounting holes.  
I have now ordered 12.19" curved vane Spec-37 rotors(R7705 & L7706).  These withstand higher temps so hopefully these ones won't crack.  Also ordered are the correct hats and caliper mounts for this upgrade.

From my experience I'd suggest anyone that's installed the Wilwood kits to check your rotors for cracks and definitely replace the original BP-10 pads with these ones.  They were only NZ$175 for the set and are the best money I've spent on my brakes yet.
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