Wilwood brake conversion. Hard peddle

I replaced the Bendix brakes a year ago and now have a hard peddle and it takes a fair bit of leg work to get the speed down. Not great to be honest. I assume it's the change in master cylinder size to piston area.
Has anyone else had this issue?

Had one the other day, 1961 chevy impala with front discs, vac power asssist. Had hard pedal, 400 psi at fron caliper, replaced 1 1/8 master with a 1 inch and pressure went to 720

Just switched to Wilwood too, Al from ControlFreaks sold me an Power MBC from Wilwood with the 1 1/8" Bore.

The Pressure at the Breakes depends on 2 factors. 
Surface of the MBC Piston to the Calipers Pistons, and the Vaccum at the booster.
if you have a low vaccum/agressive Cam you have s lower level of Support for the MBC.

I had some Prolems while installing, the Wilwood MBC is diffrent as the Stock AMC one..
so i mixed up the Front & rear circuits..

Btw What Car did you install the Wilwood? and what size of the Breakes did you choose?

Yes, you need more pressure and less voulume in the front but need the same as original in the back because of stock drums.  The adjustment on the Wilwoods is very imortant on the booster pushrod.  Just touching the piston.  Also look at your belcrank/mount.  They are usually seized at the pivot and need to be heated and pulled apart for service.  The shaft is straked in place at the square end and when it seizes, you only get a little travel before you run into hard pedal.  We find that 95% of all bellcrank/nounts are stuck.  If the shaft hasbeen turnning wher the square goes into the bracket, you have to tack weld it solid again.  Bolt it to a booster to keep it square and aligned when you weld.  You would not beleive how much better it will stop.