What is the best way to de gunk a 1966 232 i6?

My engines are generally pretty clean, I'm always using Amsoil synthetic.  I like their other products too, like engine flush.  It works in transmissions as well. 

purple72Gremlin wrote: protecautocare wrote: I understand the DIY approach of using cheap chemicals you can readily find around most garages like diesel & kerosene.     However, the issue that's brought up in nearly every post "what happens to the sludge/carbon/dirt/grime" is simply that you'll be moving it around your motor.  Sure, you will clean "some" of it out... but you won't clean out all of it and that's an issue.   You also won't be protecting your motor... which, if your doing maintenance, should be one of your major goals.  After all, you don't want to end up with a larger problem than the one you started with. We have the best engine flush in the world.  Hands down the other products on the market do not even come close to effectiveness.   Our flush boosts the old oils lubrication by 96% to ensure your motor is fully protected during the flush.  Diesel & kerosene and most other flushes on the market don't do this.  Most have warnings right on the label that says not to even drive the vehicle when the flush is in the motor!    Next, lets look at the actual break down of the contaminates in your motor.  You want them gone right?  Then you need to use a chemical tool that will actually break them down... to a 1/3rd of a micron.   That's what our product does.  You won't find left over contamination in your motor that'll clog screens or oil filters. Here is the link: https://www.protecautocare.com/motor-vehicle-care/engine-flush  I'll be happy to answer any questions. <span style="margin: 0px auto; border: 2px dotted rgb255, 165, 0; : ; : 2147483647; visibility: ; left: 377px; width: 0px; top: 191px; height: 0px;"></span><span style=": 2147483647; : ; visibility: ; left: 362px; width: 50px; top: 176px; height: 20px; font-size: 10px; color: black;"></span> thought had to have 30 post before you can go inn the for sale section? To keep spammers out?

You're right, but this isn't the for sale section. But I agree that an ad, as helpful as it might be, might be inappropriate. But the bigger question might be, who is this person and how did he find out about the question?

Later!
Mr. Ed

But the dirt first has to get to the filter through the oil pump. Hard to do that if the screen is clogged shut. I had a '69 Ford F250 Camper Special that I stuck a 400C out of a cop car into. Just for fun one night we decided to have a drag race (my truck vs my buddy's Chev tow truck with 383 stroker). I got him off the line and was almost to the finish line when my motor quit but I still coasted over the line. I tried to re-start it and just heard a clacking noise from the dist. I pulled the cap and had my GF (post 1st marriage) crank it over. Dist just rotated slightly then popped back.
   My buddy towed me home (still sheepish that even though my motor quit that I still beat him) and the next day I dropped the pan. It was full of pieces from someone doing the timing chain but not cleaning the pan and broken valve guide seals. 5 hours later I had new main bearings in (rods were fine) and new valve seals. The oil pump just needed cleaning out along with the screen.
   I got sooo lucky! A new roll pin in the dist and it was back on the road until I had to borrow rent money from a scrapper and the yard thought I wanted to crush it. That was such a sweet motor that it was a shame to do that to it. I protect my '77 AMX 304 much better than that. I've had it 15 years and hope to get a few more before rebuilding it.


Edited by carnuck - Sep/26/2014 at 12:46pm

Yes... but is that hot or cold pressure? Cold oil is thicker and will run higher pressure. A practically new engine should run 30-60 psi cold at idle. Once it warms up to full operating temp (180-200 degrees), the oil is thinner and pressure will drop. The general rule of thumb is you should have a minimum of 10 psi at idle with the engine hot, and pressure should be at least 10 psi per 1000 rpm over idle. So at 5000 rpm you want at least 50 psi. AMC TSM (factory manuals) say 15 psi at hot idle, but that's for a new engine. 100,000 miles or so and 10 psi is still good.

It's hard to break a 232. They easily go 100,000 miles between rebuilds.

Mine's towed trailers and been abused it's whole life. Only thing that's ever been done to it was a timing chain at 113,000 miles. Still has 140-155 in all cylinders and will cruise any legal interstate speed with power to spare. Smoothest running engine I've ever owned...when the spark plugs are clean. Keeps up with V8's.

Dang good motors.

My grandfather had one with overdrive in his '65 Classic. He said that thing was good for 85 or so in overdrive and well over 100 in 3rd, and I believe it. He out-ran a lot of big V8 muscle cars in that old wagon just because they were geared wrong. Had over nearly 200,000 miles when he sold it in 1972 and much like my 232, it had never been apart.


Edited by FSJunkie - Sep/29/2014 at 8:20pm