What brand/PN spark plugs 4 a stock Pacer 258 2BBL

You might want to replace the distributor cap, points, and plug wires while you're at it depending on their condition.
Your local parts store should be able to look up what the replacement plugs are. I run Champion Copper 405's, some others on the forum run Autolites, they all do the same thing

Thread Size:14 mm
Hex Size:13/16"
Reach Length:3/4"
Gap .035"

Champion - ive had the best luck with 'em.
I also like autolite.
I run Champions as a first choice in everything from lawn equipment and tractors to cars.
(I've never seen a fouling issue with them - and suspect if seen it's due to imperfect heat range cross-reference charts.)
I've run Bosch, NGK, Champion in the Javelin and find the least issues with Champions in the Jav 390 and Eagle 258s.  The Bosch and NGK fouled fastest on me.Champions and Autolite runs the cleanest.
When we did tune-ups at the shop, Champions were used in all non-GM and non-Ford- we put AC in GM products, Autolite in Ford, and Champions went in everything else. Just our practice at that time.
BE CAREFUL with cross-references. Many times, you'll see that if you cross back and forth, you'll end up a full range or two off indicating that they aren't giving you an exact match. In other words, when you switch brands based on charts, you end up with a hotter or colder running plug. So ou may need to change ranges based on your needs, and not the charts.
Don't run the fancy new materials in these older engines. Avoid platinum, etc. Get the old-skool stuff. Less ping and heat issues.............


Edited by billd - Nov/15/2009 at 6:24pm

LOL - yeah, ask what plugs are best and you get 100 different answers. Odd, I've got a couple AC plugs on the shelf that leaks past that joint. But I've never had a Champion do it.
I need to see where they are, dig them out and photograph them.........

My advice - put in what the owner manual and/or TSM call for - Brand and number and Go From There.
I've had 2 bad GE light bulbs in the past 6 months - one DOA, the other lasted less than 2 hours in a fixture, so I guess GE bulbs suck.
My point - I've used hundreds of Champion plugs and have not had a bad one, but others have, I've had bad AC plugs and others have not........... what does that prove? Not a thing. They all have bad runs, some worse than others. They pretty much all have access to the same technology and science today so how can one be light years better than the others?
If I based my opinion of NGK plugs based on my experience with them in AMCs, I'd say they and bosche were totally crap plugs, yet I know they aren't really. I say that because I've also used those in dozens of other cars over the years and believe they are OK for their intended use. When doing tune-ups I typically put back in what was taken out, or whatever the customer asked for if they had a preference. (and NGK is what was in my Yamaha 750 and is in my V-twim JD lawn tractor now)

Put stock in that engine and go from there. IF they foul, then you have ENGINE troubles or are running the wrong heat range. Fix the engine troubles and/or move up a heat range and try again. Don't blame the plug for human error or engine troubles. Don't use a cross-reference guide if switching brands, do a direct look-up. In many cases, you'll end up with different numbers!
I've used too many hundreds and hundreds of plugs over decades to say one is absolutely better than the other in a STREET driven engine.
I will say this, and it's supported by more than one "plug site" - for these older engines, the legacy engine like we run - stay away from the modern technology and material plugs - use the old-fashioned plugs, standard stuff. No fancy tip, no fancy metals. Some of them have been proven to run too hot at the electrode in our cars and cause pre-ignition, etc. They aren't always good for our chamber design and fuel systems.
Open the owner manual, find the spark plug recommendation and use it. Go from there.
If it says Champion xxxxx then use that - and adjust only if you see issues. If it works fine, then I guess it wasn't a bad plug, eh?
We're only talking a 258 with what for compression and horsepower?  Not rocket science or super-high-tech LOL............

Hard to judge an entire brand/line on that, sorry. Very limited based on limited sample of admittedly worn engines..........
I'm going by many dozens of tune-ups using hundreds of plugs over decades of time. (and things do change over the years, too!)
Again - you'll find a huge mix of experiences, and "the best plug" (or the worst) is almost like asking "who makes the best computer" or even the best car.............

I do have to say, I really do like Autolite plugs, have never had or seen an issue, they have simply worked. I think everyone in the shop liked them, actually, we always stocked Autolites in every number used over those years. We never had to say, that I recall, "sorry, we don't have Autolite for your car". If someone doesn't want to use Champion, that's the brand I'd suggest. It's just a gut feeling, and based on "I can't ever recall a problem with them" - nothing scientific.
 I removed the NGK plugs from my Javelin and put in Autolite and the pinging was reduced.
I ran Bosche before the NGK plugs - fouled constantly. The NGK plugs fouled but not as badly. The Autolite haven't been in long enough to judge. The Champion plugs I'd pulled before I checked out Bosche and NGK - I pulled them out of storage, they were quite clean, actually, burned a little more tan, while the NGK burned white.
But that's based on a single engine.......... limited miles.
What you'll find is that if you do a direct look-up for other brand plugs, then take those numbers and cross them, you'll often find you are in a different heat range......... I'm guessing that whether you realised it or not, you may have actually been changing heat ranges even though that wasn't the intent. Even different charts from different companies don't always end up with the same numbers when you cross.
That's why I say - start with the recommendation, then move colder or hotter from there......... but start where it's recommended.
The charts can "lie".................

I've got a decent small collection of spark plugs covering roughly 90 years, it's interesting all the brands, shapes and sizes, the goofy stuff tried over the years and so on.
When Albert Champion, found his plug company wrestled away from him all those years ago - he started up another plug company.......... AC = Albert Champion.............

That poor little chebbie has some low compression, doesn't she? Wow. Although a friend in college found he had to pour about a quart of AFT down the carb each morning to give his 63 chebbie Impala enough vacuum to start......... I suspect his compression was even lower. Oddly enough, he never complained of fouled plugs! I wonder what he ran?

billd wrote: That poor little chebbie has some low compression, doesn't she? Wow. Although a friend in college found he had to pour about a quart of AFT down the carb each morning to give his 63 chebbie Impala enough vacuum to start......... I suspect his compression was even lower. Oddly enough, he never complained of fouled plugs! I wonder what he ran?

yea, I think they did  it so the 6v could roll it over fast enough to start... it's pretty cool tho. the engine 'winds down' when it's shut off, but it will also fire up on the 2nd or 3rd crank... a '63 Impala would have at least 8:1 compression, for whichever engine it had...  I had to use the ATF every other week for the Rambler. it only pulled 10 HG but it would go down to 6 HG when it needed the ATF.. odlly enough, it was always quick starting. within a crank and the choke was disconnected


Edited by matt167 - Nov/16/2009 at 10:42am