Well the flathead block is cracked. :(

,  Cover that fan up before the black helicopters see it.

Matt, you wre sort of right -- Tom's info is on the 196, but the OHV version. The L-head doesn't have a head gasket issue, just the OHV. The problem is the massive OHV head expands and contracts enough to loosen the head bolts over time. Takes over 15K miles to do it, or sitting for 5-6 years in the weather (may take longer than that, but they WILL work loose without running the engine!).

The problem with the L-head isn't getting the bolts loose. They usually either come right off or screw the studs out if the nuts stick. The biggest problem is getting the head over the 21 studs! A little rust forms around the studs where they go through the head and stick it on. I've had to use a steel wedge to get a head off! If the studs pull out it's plain wonderful!

I know where the cracks in the block are without asking -- around the exhaust valves, and maybe intakes too. Remember guys -- flat-head -- valve seats are in the block. The head is little more than a cover for the cylinders and valves. It does have a water jacket in it for cooling, of course!

Martin, you shouldn't have a problem finding a flat-head block, I'd think there were a few around that someone would be willing to give you. You might have to drive 100 miles one way for a rebuilder that might be like your cracked one, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do! I gave one away not long ago, guy just had come out and pick it up.

The smoking could be rings, but have the valve guides checked USING AMC SPECS too. There are no valve steam seals. The valves are upside down and only get splash oiling. If the guides are worn bad oil can still be sucked in though. If the valves are good bronze liners can be installed. There used to be oversize stem valves, but I'm not sure if you could find them or what the price might be if you do.


Edited by farna - Mar/21/2010 at 7:04pm

Yeah Bruce, I actually was trying to leave the motor in it so someone else could have a nice little project after I took the little things off for my two door. Other than some rust in the floors it is darn solid and all original down to the paint.

I run the stock 60 hp flathead V8 in my 37 Ford and an 85 hp flathead V8 in my 38 Ford. As the link to "stitching a cracked block" previously provided, that is the time tested and proven way to fix a crack in a flathead block.

Edited by 69BBB3904spAMX - Mar/23/2010 at 1:08am

I have worked on many flathead powered early Ford V8s back years ago when I worked at a full on restoration shop which specialized in the V8 Ford (doing body repair and paint). I have a memory somewhere in the back of my head about the little V8 60 having the metal sides as you desribe but hadn't thought about it in years. I do know that was as interesting little motor and pretty successful back in the Midget racing of the forties and fifties.