Voltage problems

I been having voltage problem, when i turn on my headlights and stuff it drops to about 11 to 10.5, so i went and got my alt tested and it as good, so i took my meter reader to it also and the alt to battery checks 13.5 to 13.3 with all my power stuff on the inside gauge says 10.5 -11, so i check the gauge by checking the fuse panel at some of the fuses it checks the same as the gauge with all of the powerstuff on with no stuff on car just running it checks 12.9 to 13.1 at the fuse box, the battery still reads 13.5 . My car is a 71 javelin running a delco alt , that's how it was when i got it it's a 7127 part # ,what should i check next?

your reading of 10.5-11 volts using a volt meter to read battery voltage at the battery.  I am assuming that this is done that way with the engine running and everything says there is a problem no matter what the alternator test says.

No matter what the situation is, a 71 Javelin does not use enough power to throw a delco Alternator out of regulation.  That reading should be 14.3 or so.
Why? Because it should.
And I have enough cars to verify that none of them are going to read 11 volts fully loading down the alternator.
You say it is a conversion?
Either the alternator bad or some one royally screwed up the conversion with wiring erros to the alternator.
A Delco alternator should be hooked up in your car like the following wiring diagram: ( Look for it I put it on here some where) The 15 ohm resisitor shown is some where in the under hood wiring on your car and is part of the wiring of your original alternator.  It is a resistance wire built into the wiring harness.
When found and used correctly on hooking up a Delco alternator the charging circuit for the regulator should work with the same idiot light the alternator you took out should work.
As some one writing on a forum thttp://theamcforum.com/forum/new_reply_form.asp?TID=53078&PN=1&TR=2hread I have no clue how your car was wired to make this Delco Alternator work.
But I can assure you something is wired wrong OR your alternator is no good.
But if I was standing at your car with a TSM I could figure it out.

You can see from the drawing that the BATTERY lead is some how with in the wiring harness hooked to pin 2.  So what ever the battery reads should also be read at pin 2.  If it does not the wring error is between pin 2 and the batter positive terminal.

Here is an explanation of what goes on with Pin #1.  It is the feed back line that controls the regulator:

WARNING LAMP

This brings us back full circle to the starting point – the alternator warning lamp. As can be seen from figure 5, a schematic for an actual alternator, there is a path to ground from the field current supply input [1] to the regulator. As a result, when the key is turned on, current flows through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors, and field coil, and then to ground, causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output, voltage from the diode trio, also applied to [1], equals the battery voltage. At this time, with 12 volts on both sides, the lamp is out.

If the alternator should fail, voltage from the diode trio would drop, and once again the lamp would light from the battery voltage. If the alternator output is only a little low, the lamp will be dimly lit. If the alternator fails completely, and the output voltage goes to zero, the lamp will be lit at full brilliance. Conversely, if the battery should fail, and the battery voltage drops, with the output voltage of the alternator on one side and the low battery voltage on the other, the lamp will also light.

As stated earlier, if the light grows dimmer as the engine is revved up, it is because the alternator voltage is rising with the RPM, producing more voltage on the alternator side of the lamp. The closer the output voltage gets to the battery voltage, the dimmer the bulb becomes. By the same way, if the light gets brighter with increasing RPM, it is because as the alternator voltage increases, it is getting higher than the battery voltage. The higher the voltage with respect to the battery voltage, the greater the voltage difference across the lamp, and the brighter it gets.

At pin one, when the idiot light is out, the voltage there should equal the battery voltage measured at Pin 2. If battery voltage is low, then the voltage at pin 2 is also low and the sensing line, that at pin 1 has a problem.

Again, the problem probably exists due to the conversion.

I don't know how to tell  you any better, but you are looking for a wiring problems some where in the car and it probably is some where under the hood. Don't know, don't envy you, been there done that.

Do you have a TSM that gives a wiring diagram? It would help at the moment that you did.

Your voltage is on the low side, however, you really don't state what speed the engine is running at when you measure that. Obviously the inside gauge is wrong. In fact, I rarely actually use an inside meter if I want REALLY accurate readings as there's going to be voltage drop on the connections on these old cars.

Well i started with checking the alt first to see if it match Unclijohn diagram , thanks, at first i thought i found the problem, when i loosen the nut off the back of the alt the connection  fell off then i started to unwrap the tape and found the wires just twisted up and tape up so i cut and my some new wires up and put it back together, still the same , now i am scared of the rest of the wiring if it's anything like this was .

Thanks for the link