Trying to tread lightly as a newbie, but,

You are right Keith, it is a "T" on the tag.

Your not wrong, the reason I started this post is that I am LOOKING for a direction, I did state my goals, and they are what I would want my end result to be, I'm just trying to pluck some knowledge on what will work, what won't and how far I could "push" that envelope.

To be honest, you probably have a far better selection of fuel where you are than we do.

I literally live in the middle of nowhere, town of 500 people and our fuel consists on 87 octane reg, or 89 octane blend. My Firebird has ample cooling, insulated lines and a high volume pump.

On either of these fuels I have boiling problems on days over 95 degrees, and just so you don't think it's an old carb, fuel delivery problem, my 07 Yamaha FJR1300 will stall and runs badly, and it is carbed.

However none of my new vehicles 2012 Buick Lacrosse, 2014 F150 5.0 or even my 2009.5 Pontiac G8 GXP have an issue, so I am pretty certain that the only way to solve this is to put the fuel under higher pressure, ie, fuel injection.

Stan

Edited by Kansas Transit - Oct/29/2014 at 1:12pm

Do you have a return style fuel system on the Firebird or deadhead? Return style may help. Even later AMCs with carbs ran return style fuel filters. Also, likely need to change jetting from cold to hot temperatures - same jetting isn't optimal for both.

Not too far back I ran a daily driver Hornet with 304, Performer intake, Performer manual choke carb, 204/214 cam, freeflows, dual 2 1/4" exhaust, Motorcraft electronic distributor, later 998 transmission w/stock high stall converter. Worked fine for -30F to 90F. Cruised fine up to 65mph. Got better mileage than stock, but only around 16 mpg(US) mostly highway. Changed metering rods winter to summer.

What's your budget and realistic goals? If you're in a small town in middle of nowhere, going to be tough to scrounge parts for cheap, so likely need to rebuild what you've got, get mostly new stuff or transplant a modern driveline.

Cruising at 75mph while maintaining good low end really wants an OD transmission. If you want OD, EFI, etc. going to cost a fair bit. How much is the Javelin worth to you as likely to cost a fair bit more than what you could sell it for.

Not trying to discourage, just trying to be realistic. I know I spent more on a basic engine rebuild than I paid for my entire car ('74 Javelin) ... and fitting a T56 cost more than the engine. Costs add up in a hurry ... especially if also needs paint and body.

Thanks,RD.

I'm also from a small town. Only reason I kept the Hornet going for so long is it got hand-me-down parts as I upgraded the Javelin over the years and my family had a dozen or so AMCs kicking around in a scrap yard I could scrounge parts from. The Javelin is now just a summer cruising car.

It's sure nice to keep AMC power, but understand why people fit something else. May be easier to find AMC stuff nowadays with internet, but shipping can still be a problem.

As for cautions on AMCs:

- roller cams seem to be an issue as suitable lifters seem to be a challenge to get. Best bet is likely to bush to Chevy or Ford size or just stay flat tappet and use good oil or additives for flat tappet.

- oiling system: If driving hard mostly street, recommend an Aviaid or Armando road race style pan and pay attention to assembled clearances. Timing sets can be spotty, some cams have lobe issues, use stock or Bulltear distributor gears.

- cooling system: Aluminum rads are available as are aftermarket pumps. I haven't had issues with stock big rad.

- brakes: Wilwood, Scarebird, Control Freaks, Aerospace have kits. Stock is ok for stock type use.

- transmission: T10 is ok, but not a good combo for 75mph cruising. Lots have done T5s and a few Richmonds, TKOs and T56s ... Quicktime has a bell to fit GM style.

- AMC20 is fine with upgraded axles. Good gear and carrier selection as also used in Jeeps.

- Control Freaks has suspension kits. Prothane has bushings.

- AMC vendors have some sheet metal and small bits or list in Wanted section.

Hope this helps,RD.

I'm still running the stock AMC20 ... but don't drag race and try not to launch hard. Lots say the stock two-piece axles are fine on the street if you keep nuts torqued properly. One-piece are a good upgrade if running hard and yes, eliminates the separate hub. Most go to Moser ... but any axle guy should be able to make them. All custom order.

Not really a fan of HEI ... but seems to be a few out there? Some of the cheap ones are questionable. MSD has a drop-in ready-to-run distributor or has a distributor and box. Mallory and Accel also have distributors. Good points will get you by. Lots run a Pertronix, Crane or similar points conversion since stock is a Delco style. Later use the Motorcraft style and can still get distributor and box from parts houses. I've got an MSD with the Ford-style cap-a-dapt and a Crane box.