Trunnion removal for V-8 cars only

just as an FYI- if you are going to do this, or any of the front suspension and you do not know when it was last worked on, if ever, hit every bolt with PB Blaster or whatever penetrating oil you like' every day a week or two before going at it. I only have a small impact gun and a couple of the bolts would not break loose... not after hitting with penetrating oil and heat until they were cherry red.

Edited by dpimm - Aug/06/2015 at 2:45pm

In the last photo with the spring removed from the car, it shows two of the small aftermarket spring compressors near the top of the spring.  Are these necessary for the procedure or did your car already happen to have these in place?

dpimm wrote:  <span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 15.27272605896px; : rgb240, 241, 245;">AMXFSTBK390</span> - mine was in, but I would not think it mattered. The only reason using the traditional method that the engine and tranny need to be in the car is to help compress the spring to insert the spring tool. Since this method works without needing to compress the spring, I am not sure why it would matter. I will ask Jim his thoughts....

It seems the engine and transmission weight help compress the trunnion spring when a car is parked. A car without the engine and transmission sits higher because the spring has less stored energy. This may indicate when the car frame is supported on jack stands, the engine/trans are out of the car, the motorcycle lift is under the lower control arm and raised to make removal of the upper trunnion outer bolt easier, and the moment the bolt is removed the car lifts instantly because it doesn't have the weight of the eng/trans bearing down on the spring, and the spring simultaneously comes flying out, ruining your day. I am curious about what Jim will have to say.

Seems like a clever way to handle a difficult (and potentially dangerous) job.

I talked with GaryJav before he made his spring tool. The factory tool holds the spring compressed A LOT. We discussed this and he decided to make his tool longer, so it hold the spring with less compression. That tool won't work on a 63-66 Classic/Ambo/Marlin because the upper spring "socket" is too tight. I make some simple 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick steel hooks to hold the spring. I make them so the spring needs just enough compression to get the lower hook on -- about 1/4-3/8" over the way it sits in the car with engine and trans. Simply have to pull down on a fender to get the hook on. To remove the spring the shock has to be taken loose, but there is just enough room to get it off. As long as the spring stays straight there is no issue. With all that pressure it will stay straight. I don't know what it would take to make it move, and don't intend to find out, but it would take a lot of force. I don't think simply dropping it would be enough, but I handle it gingerly anyway, and only move as far as necessary... just enough to put it under the front "frame" rail. That's what I use to get the hooks off (and back on).  Without the engine in the car it won't compress enough though. On a big trunnion car I'm pretty sure the spring won't come out by dropping the arm, but I've only pulled six cylinder 63-66 suspensions apart, haven't had to do a V-8. As noted, the six cylinder springs are softer but taller.