Torque Tube Removal on my 1965 Rambler Classic.

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   I have searched all over the forum for the answer to this but I was wondering if there are an special tools or things to look out for to remove the turbo tube so that I can replace the rear pinion seal. It is leaking diff fluid out of the TT between the transmission and the TT. I will probably replace the Torque Tube Stabilizer Trunion while I am in there as well if needed. I am a novice wrencher and would love some guidance. It is pretty clean under the wagon and not very rusty at all. I assume the bolts will come loose because all the gear lube all over them. Looks like i need to remove the rear end to get to the rear seal. Is this something that only master techs should do or is this something someone like me can do? i was quoted $500 to $800 to have it done at a shop. The parts not including the trunion bushing seems to be less than $50. Short on money and would love to stop the leak before it destroys the trunion bushing and makes my neighbors mad because of the oil slick i am leaving in front of my house. 
Thanks for the help. 

Edited by gumby - Nov/06/2014 at 7:00pm

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gumby Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/08/2014 Location: Colorado USA Status: Offline Points: 68	Post Options Post Reply Quote gumby Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Torque Tube Removal on my 1965 Rambler Classic. Posted: Nov/06/2014 at 6:01pm
	I have searched all over the forum for the answer to this but I was wondering if there are an special tools or things to look out for to remove the turbo tube so that I can replace the rear pinion seal. It is leaking diff fluid out of the TT between the transmission and the TT. I will probably replace the Torque Tube Stabilizer Trunion while I am in there as well if needed. I am a novice wrencher and would love some guidance. It is pretty clean under the wagon and not very rusty at all. I assume the bolts will come loose because all the gear lube all over them. Looks like i need to remove the rear end to get to the rear seal. Is this something that only master techs should do or is this something someone like me can do? i was quoted $500 to $800 to have it done at a shop. The parts not including the trunion bushing seems to be less than $50. Short on money and would love to stop the leak before it destroys the trunion bushing and makes my neighbors mad because of the oil slick i am leaving in front of my house. Thanks for the help. Edited by gumby - Nov/06/2014 at 7:00pm

gtoman_us Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: E. Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 3866	Post Options Post Reply Quote gtoman_us Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/06/2014 at 7:14pm
	I recommend to pick up the factory Technical Service Manual (TSM). Not sure what year and model you have. The procedure is in there. Jack the car up and securely support the body before the rear wheels. Disconnect the emergency brake cable, rear shocks, truss rods, and rear pan hard bar if so equipped. Undue the fasteners to the transmission and the rear end. Support the rear end on a floor jack then seperates by pulling towards the rear. Need to be careful to not drop the car off the stands. You do not have to pull it very far to get the TT out. It is a challenge to get the TT back. But if you install the TT to the rear end first then pull it forward and slip the yoke into the transmission.
	Moderator - Emeritus Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles 1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon 1965 GTO 1931 Model A original survivor "Flat Roofs are Cool"

gumby Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/08/2014 Location: Colorado USA Status: Offline Points: 68	Post Options Post Reply Quote gumby Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/06/2014 at 7:17pm
	Thanks. It is a 1965 amc rambler 660 wagon. 287 V8 auto.

gtoman_us Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: E. Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 3866	Post Options Post Reply Quote gtoman_us Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/06/2014 at 7:28pm
	Perfect. Pretty much as I described for the 65's. Not a technically challenging task, but will require muscle and persuasion to seperate the TT.
	Moderator - Emeritus Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles 1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon 1965 GTO 1931 Model A original survivor "Flat Roofs are Cool"

gumby Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/08/2014 Location: Colorado USA Status: Offline Points: 68	Post Options Post Reply Quote gumby Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/06/2014 at 8:10pm
	Is it hard to replace the seal once the tube is out? Anything else i should replace besides the seal? Is this the right part? NATIONAL Part # 470331N? Should i also get Differential Pinion Repair Sleeve? Any advice is greatly appreciated. I will get the book.
	1965 AMC Rambler 660 4 door Wagon, 287 V8

KermitDRambler Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/06/2007 Location: Cincinnati, OH Status: Offline Points: 2579	Post Options Post Reply Quote KermitDRambler Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/07/2014 at 7:28am
	In addition to what gtoman_us said, you also need to disconnect the rear brake hose. It would be a good idea to replace it if you haven't replaced it already. Note that you'll need to bleed the rear brakes so you also need to make sure that you can open and close the bleeder screws. Spray them with penetrating oil and let them soak for a day or so. If there is room, use a socket to open them. It's very easy to snap stuck bleeder screws off with a box wrench. If they snap off, you'll need to replace the wheel cylinders (always do them in pairs). When you jack the car up, get it up high enough that the body will clear the rear tires. It is easiet to move things around with the rear tires attached. Once you have everything disconnected, lower the rear axel slowly. The rear springs will just fall out. It is safer to remove them when they get to the point that they are about ready to fall out. There should be rubber cushions on the top and bottom of the springs. Make sure that you keep track of them since its hard to find replacements. The repair sleeves are used when the pinion gear is worn where the seal rides on it. There is no way of knowing if you need one until you take the old seal out. I don't know if you need special tools for the pinion seal or not but as you've noticed, you're mostly getting charged for labor. You could remove the axel yourself and then take it some place to have the pinion seal replaced. It should be much cheaper that way. Matt
	1967 American wagon http://www.mattsoldcars.com

gumby Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/08/2014 Location: Colorado USA Status: Offline Points: 68	Post Options Post Reply Quote gumby Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/07/2014 at 7:47am
	Thanks Matt. Great advice.
	1965 AMC Rambler 660 4 door Wagon, 287 V8

Lucas660 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2012 Location: Vic, Australia Status: Offline Points: 1344	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lucas660 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/07/2014 at 3:18pm
	No special tools are required. I would suggest stacking 2 seals in there. There is room and is cheap insurance. A pair of rims with no tyres can be used to help roll the diff/TT assembly out. Otherwise put it on a dolly or a creeper. Check the double uni joints while its out also. GOOD LUCK!

gumby Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/08/2014 Location: Colorado USA Status: Offline Points: 68	Post Options Post Reply Quote gumby Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/07/2014 at 4:01pm
	When you say 2 seals. Do you mean 2 pinion gaskets? And 1 pinion seal? the seal is metal and rubber right? Do you know if I pull the parts out will I be able to take them to a local parts store like napa our performance and find them there? Or would I have to special order them?
	1965 AMC Rambler 660 4 door Wagon, 287 V8

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19675	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/08/2014 at 10:04am
	It's easy to move the axle around with the rear tires on, but I always take them off so the body doesn't have to be lifted so high. Put the floor jack under from the rear. You can put the tires back on with just a couple lug nuts on each once it's out to move it around.
	Frank Swygert