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Mandatory oil system mods

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Amc wannabe View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jan/24/2019 at 5:32pm
i am rebuilding a late 360 to be a performance daily driver. I plan on dabbling in autocross/drag/maybe even road course as well. So I will not be babying it or rarely driving it. With that being the case I have a few questions about the piling system.
1. I have read the lifter valley line may/may not be important. For those who say it isn’t, why not?
2. External oil filter pickup line/road race setups(think milodon) since I expect pushing Gs in several directions, would this be of great importance compared to other mods or only extra insurance?
3. I read somewhere that an issue might be keeping oil in the pan(sounded like drainback issues) if anyone knows about that, please enlighten me.
4. Any other oiling info or suggestions? I would like to have this thing ready and right the first time. 

Thanks in advance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mmaher94087 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/24/2019 at 5:59pm
My opinion: I believe the #1 oiling mod is to weld two 3/4" flat washers, 180 degrees apart to the bottom edge of the oil pan pickup.  This prevents the pump from sucking up the pan bottom and stopping the oil flow from the pan to the pump.  No washers; use flat bar stock; both are readily available at your hardware store.  If your oil pickup has a hole in the top of it; weld that up as well.  If your pickup has the nylon spacer plug on the screen side; pull it off and throw it out as it will deteriorate and get sucked into the pump.
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/24/2019 at 6:10pm
Agreed on the above reply, it is a simple mod that can save you in the long run.

Depending on rebuild for hiperf use, 1 quart more than full on the dipstick marker.

FL1-A filter conversion. $9.00 part from Mopar dealer service counter and plug your oil bypass to use the Ford filter built in bypass.you get a fresh bypass with every oil filter change, as the old built in bypasses can stick from years of use, and have been known for the lack of reliability.

Double check bearing clearances, cam timing gear oil reliefs, distributor gear clearances, and cam bearing bore for clean groove to feed the front.

Not much for mods, but they resolve big issues or troubles if overlooked and ignored.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BassBoat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/24/2019 at 9:41pm
If your budget can stand the $500 hit for a Canton Street/Road Race oil pan and specific pickup for their pan, I highly recommend it.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/24/2019 at 11:38pm
on drain back issues I cleaned up and opened up all my drain hole in the heads and in the lifter valley very simple with a carbide rotary file make sure you have proper timing sprockets and alignment of cam gear and extra oil capacity
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/24/2019 at 11:51pm
I worked in a shop that built more AMC performance engines than any other and they've never had an engine fail.

1. Proper bearing clearances.
2. Proper oil pump clearances.
3. More than 5 quarts but less than 6 quarts of oil inside the engine.
4. Forget the oil line mods.
5. Use restricted pushrods and polish the return path if you feel drain-back is inadequate.

Edited by FSJunkie - Jan/24/2019 at 11:54pm
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'72 Wagoneer: 360/TH400/3.31
'73 Ambassador: 360/TF727/3.15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/25/2019 at 12:08am
I was going to bring up the subject of restricted flow pushrods, certainly worth considering. How hard you want to push it on a road course is probably going to be the biggest factor, sustained high RPM use is what will suck the oil pan dry.
I think running down the drag strip in your average street/strip car requires little more than making sure that the factory oil system is working as intended and running an extra quart of oil. Maybe if you are heading into sub 11 second 1/4 mile territory, then you will start having to take this stuff a little more seriously.
Autocross, I'd say pretty much as above with the addition of a high capacity road race type oil pan.  
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Amc wannabe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/25/2019 at 4:59am
thanks guys, great info. This is looking like it will save me a load of money as well. Those milodon external setups alone are near a grand complete. Could I get clarification on what makes that lifter valley oil line unnecessary? We’re people putting too small of lifters in and the oil was bleeding down before it got to the rear?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/25/2019 at 6:50am
To reduce/eliminate the aeration of the oil at high rpms I modify a Mopar 340 windage tray for use in the AMC V-8. Also use the Canton drag/road race eight quart pan.

-Steve-



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1982AMCConcord Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/25/2019 at 6:51am
Lots of great advice so far.. looking forward to learning more.
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