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Mega Modding Braking, Suspension & Steering

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/12/2015 at 2:39pm
Originally posted by uncljohn uncljohn wrote:

I've not seen it done with and AMC strut rod suspension, but I have seen it done with a Ford (Pinto or Mustang II) which has a similar suspension but using the strut rod in opposite position, by bending the strut rod so that the lower control arm movement was correct when bumps were hit.
However my preference is a lower "A" frame be fabricated that will allow caster/camber adjustments.
                                                                                                                                                                                            

Yeah, something like a CF suspension... Though my build was planned to be built to look factory, or less packaged so to speak.

I got my parts back pronto... Will post pix soon.

The tie rods fit perfectly for true parallelizm... Ball center is offset from lower arm pivot towards the spindles steering arm very very close to the distance between the spindle's lower pivot point center and steering arm at the tie rod mounting hole's center.

Lower arm needs some clean up at the welds but looks straight along with ball joint and strut rod mounting holes perfectly aligned.

My only issue is I gave up a perfectly good lower arm to be sacrificed. Now I will rebuild what was removed and graft from scratch to make my scrapped lower arm complete again.

Now I am at a point of being anxious to get the suspension humps done, as for the most part redoing the whole front end did not seem so complicated and a beyatch to perform.


71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/13/2015 at 7:00am
Modding the steering and suspension components

Here are my photos of the modded parts... The welds are rough and unfinished for fitment testing and will be cleaned up after some reinforcement has been completed.

Basically I cut off the original Mustang GT tie rod mounting ends and welded them to the bigger and more robust truck tie rods once I cut off the threaded stud ends. Since the truck tie rods are all steel inside, they hold up to heat, unlike the nylon bushed Mustang tie rods.

The lower control arms were extended out, and required a donor to add extension. Notice the extra strut rod mounting holes. They are equally spaced.

For more info, check out my specs page below this entry.








Edited by 304-dude - May/17/2017 at 6:08pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2015 at 6:51am
Specifications - Under construction

Stock steering replacement options:

2000 to 2004 Mustang GT Rack & Pinion and steering shaft

Tie rods: Note - Inner tie rod ends will need 2.000" shortened. May need threads extended down further on the shaft.

EV318 (2002 Lincoln Contintal)
13.050" Length   0.704" Rod thickness M16-1.5R Adjuster end 15/16" x20R Female Rack end

Can use stock Mustang billows supplied with rack or upgrade to 2002 Lincoln Contintal billows

ES3495 (2002 Crown Victoria)
4.200" Length   M16-1.5L Bent Male Adjuster end    0.581" - 0.650" 1/2"-20L - tapered stud

ES2900S (1998 Tracker) Adjuster sleeve
3.500" Length    M16-1.5L     M16-1.5R

Modded steering options:

2003 - 2004 Mustang Cobra R Rack & Pinion and a perfomance solid u joint steering shaft.

Maximum Motorsports solid bushing Mustang rack installation kit

Tie rods: Note - Inner tie rod ends will need 1.000" shortened. Has plenty of extra thread down the shaft.

EV456 (2006 Expedition 2WD)
12.150" Length   0.656" Rod Thickness   M16-1.5R - Adjuster end. M16-1.5R Male - Rack end
Note: Must remove the threaded stud and replace by welding the cut off 15/16" female end from a Mustang inner tie rod.

Must use 2006 Expedition billows, as Mustang billows are too skinny. Will need to cut Mustang billows large end to use as a donut to fit the Expedition billows over the smaller diameter rack end.

ES3495 (2002 Crown Victoria)
4.200" Length   M16-1.5L   Bent male adjuster end    0.5810" - 0.650" 1/2"-20L - tapered stud

ES2900S (1998 Tracker) Adjuster sleeve
3.500" Length    M16-1.5L     M16-1.5R

2005 F150 / Expedition / Navigator inner tie rod dust boots

Suspension Components:

Modded sway bar installation, and relocation. Shortened XLR inner tie rods and modified shaft to fit sway bar bushings and hardware.

MOOG EV343 11.92" length 0.593" rod diameter M14-1.5 end thread M18-1.5 male mounting thread. With 3" 3/8"-24 bolt to mount sway bar, bushings and beveled compression washers.

Mustang II forged spindles - Bottom mounting hole needs taper increase for AMC lower ball joint. Use 10 degree tapered reamer. For upper standard ball joint use 67 to early 70 GMC C2500 - Moog K680 and modify bolt hole locations on the UCA to mount.

For heavy duty use late 70 to 95 GMC C2500 upper ball joint - Moog K6122, and use the 10° reamer on the upper arm holes of the spindles. Same mods used for standard size GMC ball joint are required on the UCA to mount.

Modified 71 to 73 Mustang / Torino spring perches to use AMC springs, and poly bushings. Use Ford Mustang springs if left untouched. Will drop suspension up to 2" and compress the suspension to allow more stable cornering.

Extend lower arm and upper arm about an inch... Exact measurement will be in the measurments section below

Measurements:

Mustang II spindle mounting arm distance is around 0.700" shorter than stock. It will bring the lower control arm up a tad higher.

To compensate either use a spacer with stock ball joint or use a 67 to early 71 GMC C2500 truck upper ball joint.

I found that K6122 or K6292 upper ball joint is super duty, made for late 71 to 95 or 96 to 2005 GMC C2500 trucks. It has the same mounting stud taper as the lower ball joint. Spindle up rights must be reamed with a 10 degree tapered reamer on the top mounting hole for the K6122 or K6292 ball joint.

Lower control arm distance- 14.500" ball center to bushing center.

Modded lower control arm distance - 15-9/16" ball center to bushing center.

Assembled tie rod length 14.500" stock, 15-9/16" modified, from both pivot ball centers.

Strut rod length from inner mounting bolt to mounting bracket - 14.250"

Distance from eccentric bolt's center to inner tie rod pivot ball center - 1"

Distance from spindle steering arm's pivot center to lower mount pivot center - 1"

Upper control arm offset from stock location - 1" towards fire wall, 1" towards wheel. Needed, to allow a longer lower arm and bring castor up to modern wheel and tire specs, and allow for more clearance for custom headers.

Notes: After setup is completed, I hope to fit P295/45R17 (Front) & P315/45R17 (Rear)
Toe in set at 1/16", 0 rake, with +7° castor and -1° camber.

Edited by 304-dude - Aug/20/2017 at 8:46am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2015 at 2:24pm
OK, I cleaned up some errors... Some of which is from doing my editing with a wee tablet. P/Ns now are correct... Crosses fingers! Will take some time to check all my entries and weed out what I find.

Added a link in my index to my specifications addition.

Will replace my bw photos with colour when weather permits. Always cloudy when I am ready to shoot. Blasted sun!  Sorry no flash on my tablet.

As for further updates... I don't expect to have any for a good while... So don't hold your breath. Will eventually get the spherical bearings and cups for the strut rods, and have a bunch of welding for the modded suspension humps to be done. 

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/18/2015 at 11:22am
Well, I am not sure but my android browsers are having trouble with my links on the top entry to my thread.  Sometimes the links take me right to where they should go and other times somewhere in the middle of the page of replys.

If anyone has issues with the links... Just refresh the screen or go back and click on the link again. It seems to work, when the links act up, as it is random.

I spent a bit of time redoing my links, just to make sure they are linked properly.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2015 at 7:40pm
Here are some pix of my setup on a mock up without suspension hump mod, so there is some negative camber.

My spring is compressed to be about the distance under vehicle weight  with all 4 wheels on the ground.












71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2015 at 10:48am
" Only because I am moving the upper control arm position. I have done an old Trans Am trick to lengthen the lower control arm a wee over 1.120 inches."

So if I wanted yo use Mustang II spindles with a rack and pinion and didn't do any of the other suspension  mods (especially not moving the upper arm), the lower arms wouldn't require lengthening, correct?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2015 at 11:59am
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

" Only because I am moving the upper control arm position. I have done an old Trans Am trick to lengthen the lower control arm a wee over 1.120 inches."

So if I wanted yo use Mustang II spindles with a rack and pinion and didn't do any of the other suspension  mods (especially not moving the upper arm), the lower arms wouldn't require lengthening, correct?

OK, I figured some would think moving and lengthening was all because I wanted to use a Mustang GT rack. To be honest it was the racks weak tie rods that made me look for other options. In finding a stout tie rod combo to fit SAE taper at the steering arm gave very few options, that required welding to fit the rack.

As for the rack, it is probably the best fit for AMC lower arm spacing. As it is about 1/4" off from being perfect. Since the only other option I found that comes close to my modded rod sturdiness would be the options listed in the Specs section near the top.

As for your question no lengthening or moving things to install Mustang II spindles. The only issue is the need to ream the lower ball joint mounting hole for the larger taper. Everything else is a cake walk. 

Since I found good parts to replace Mustang and Thunderbird components, the only issue is the need for threading the inner tie rod once it is shortened. I am not sure if it has as much thread as my modded 2006 Expedition tie rod. Cutting 1.25" off the Expedition tie rod threaded end is the the max for both full adjustment with lower arm and least amount of threads up the rod. With the direct fit 13" tie rod I would think it would need at least 1" of added threads once 2 inches have been cut.

I am sorry that I could not make my instructions easier to follow, as I never intended to install a Mustang rack with stock spindles. I gave both instructions as to allow others to use what I find useful with what they have. I would have completed this long ago if I had been satisfied with the Thunderbird Mustang tie rod combos. They fit without mods but it is like the children's book Give a Mouse a Cookie... I find one thing at troubles me, and as I fix I find another... My suspension hump mod was a mix of issues. One being for modern wheels and tires, the other to add more competitive negative camber. The stock lower arm lost some negative camber when I compressed the suspension by using a Mustang / Torino spring perch. So moving the upper arm location and lengthening the lower arm will assist only for the type of lowering I chose and tires.



71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2015 at 1:25pm
After some thought... I decided to explain the relocation of upper and lower arms.

Because I have at least a 2 inch drop I am forced into custom headers... To allow more clearance for headers and tires, moving the suspension hump out 1" was added lastly into my suspension hump mod. Since I was modding the hump's placement 1 inch to the firewall for positive castor, the added change could be incorporated as one mod even though it is two separate mods the lower arm length extension will allow less pivot movement with suspension's bushings and joints as and added benefit. The further you extend, the less angle of travel at the pivot the joint makes. So having tight distances at the spring's compression can still give enough clearance for wheel travel. The downside is things must be tighter with clearances and stronger as some leverage has been increased.

So, if you are wanting to mod for positive caster the only option that does not cause the lower arm to bind, is to use a CF suspension or modded hump. Extending the strut bar to its limits can push too much against the sway bar, if equipped. So under hard turns the sway bar will bind against each of the forces against them. Thus causing breakage or bent strut bars.





Edited by 304-dude - Jun/21/2015 at 2:27pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2015 at 7:25pm
I updated my sway bar modding page... It can be located via 1st post index, or skimming through page 2.

Due to the cost of procurement of new items for sway bar mounting, I have consumed my limit until funds appear from what lint I can sell on eBay. Hehehehe!

Most of the cost what I'll need to do will be in the machining and welding. Cutting, forming the steel material can done with what I have available, not much but enough to anchor to the bottom of my spring perches.

Seems like it took forever to get my rack setup completed with the modded tie rods. This should not take as long... Crosses fingers.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
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