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lead substitute for a '68

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maximus7001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote maximus7001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: lead substitute for a '68
    Posted: Jun/13/2012 at 8:03am
Thanks for all the replies. I will continue to use the additive and am looking for a better solution.

 Back in the days with a '75 Nova 9c1 interceptor that had older vette heads 11.5:1 overall in the mid '90's I used to go to the local small airport and they would let me fill the car with 100 octane leaded blue av-gas sold by weight. Later on I had to use jerry cans while a plane was on the scale since their new 'government' scale rejected the car's weight and now they won't sell it at all unless it is going directly into a gas tank of a plane.


Side note:

Gotta find someone with a plane that would sell the gas from their tank(s), even a 50/50 mix with pump gas would be enough real lead to get by. They will always have to sell this gas since some plane engines are from the 1940's or older.


Edited by maximus7001 - Jun/13/2012 at 10:58am
1968 Javelin SST 290

1985 Eagle wagon

1981 Concord DL (now parts car)

1997 GMC Safari AWD

1997 Ford Contour

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tmancusi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tmancusi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2012 at 6:39am
If you have access to leaded racing gas, you could add a couple of gallons each time you fill the tank. That's what we've done for over 20 years. Takes care of any octane issues as well.

Edited by tmancusi - Jun/11/2012 at 6:40am
'68 AMX 390 4-Speed
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SportaboutX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SportaboutX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/06/2012 at 2:13am
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

If you have a non hardened seat head off the engine, it's not very expensive to have a machine shop install new seats and valves.   I have also heard bronze guides are also needed for unleaded fuel.   
 


Really? So like 4-600 a pair is not that expensive haha? I'd love to find a place that would work on heads cheap around socal.

Also I would ABSOLUTELY run an honest to goodness lead substitute in anything without hardened seats. We have personally burned a head's worth of valves by running unleaded on our ford 200 6 (bulletproof engine otherwise fyi) Slapped on a reman head back when you could still get them because even 16 years ago, the local shop wanted $600!!!! to put in new valves/guides/seats in a single ford 6 head. I have no idea if the reman unit has hardened seats, but I have been running leaded additive since then and never another problem.

Also if you live in Cali, it seems they no longer even have the substitute on the shelf anymore. I bought a case of it online which should last quite awhile until they decide to not even let you ship it to cali.



Edited by SportaboutX - Jun/06/2012 at 2:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69BBB3904spAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/06/2012 at 12:19am
I bought a case of real Tetra Ethyl Lead from Chemco Oil in Utah a few years back. Not legal for street use, so I of course only use it off road Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kellysguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2012 at 10:30pm
The GM rotators supposdly don't like high lift or spring pressure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMX North Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2012 at 10:59pm
Originally posted by kellysguy kellysguy wrote:

Originally posted by AMX North AMX North wrote:

you know that work is going to need to be done right in the middle of driving season.
 
Which is why you should move to here.Wink
But with no winter when would I work on the car Confused 
70 AMX/390/Auto Hialeah yellow/Shadow Mask,           Kevin Jones

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kellysguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2012 at 10:51pm
Originally posted by AMX North AMX North wrote:

you know that work is going to need to be done right in the middle of driving season.
 
Which is why you should move to here.Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMX North Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2012 at 8:29pm
I bought three bottles of lead additive last year and I still have some left . I find I don`t drive the car that far or that often so it last a long time . I feel it`s cheap insurance compared to a valve job and you know that work is going to need to be done right in the middle of driving season.
70 AMX/390/Auto Hialeah yellow/Shadow Mask,           Kevin Jones

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fasttony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2012 at 8:18pm
 I wonder if the exhaust valve rotators GM used on the mid 70's small blocks would be helpful on older engines with non-hardened seats running on unleaded fuel? It might be a way to get around additives? Did AMC ever use them?
 
Tony 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kellysguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2012 at 8:16pm
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

 
  The low-lead fuels can be viewed in the same way as the zinc levels in engine oil:   is there enough lead to keep the seats alive, or too little? what are the effects on valve life, etc.   
 
 
Hmmmmm, I wonder if you could run Lucas Break-in in your fuel to compensate for no lead?
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