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holley 570 on a 360?

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FuzzFace2 View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/14/2012 at 10:53pm
Originally posted by tsanchez tsanchez wrote:

I would put a 56 jet in, leave the sec alone and possibly run a 10.5 power valve. With a stock type engine they make a lot of vac so it may not open the valve fast enough.
Check float level.
Make sure ign timing is correct, I would put it at 12 initial and use ported vac to begin.
Make sure centrifugal advance it working.
 
Smoky yunick used to say I can find 95%  of your carb problems in the dist, and its true, most issues with carb tuning is just because it can be adjusted doesnt mean you should. 
Some good info here. My 360 drag motor with the HP750 DP had a bog off the line. Working the dist. timming got rid of most of it. That was after playing with the carb for many passes.
Dave ----
75 GremlinX v8

76 GremlinX i6 (sons)

70 Javelin SST 390/4sp (360/5sp now)

70 Javelin 1/4 Drag car 360/auto
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blaine H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2012 at 8:09pm
I bought a 670 Avenger for my sc/360 when they first came out. Seemed like a good idea at the time and I believed their advertising. What a mistake! I do quite a bit of track time and I thought I knew my way around Holly carbs but this thing gave me fits. I had the "bog" at about the 40 to 60' mark and no matter what I did or changed I couldn't get rid of it including using the heaviest black spring. Lost a full 3 tenths off what a stock 600 had given me. A fellow racer loaned me his 750 DP just try and it worked like a charm after some tuning. I sold the barely used Avenger very cheap and although it might be overkill I still use a 750 DP - stock jetting but with size 40 squirters. Oh, I didn't have any luck with Holly's tech line either. I explained my problem and they talked to me like I was a 5 year old. Their exact words to me were "If yall don't wanna listen then this here conversation is over."
Don't drive yourself nuts - maybe look for something else cheap.
 
blaine H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davidotye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2012 at 7:34pm
Originally posted by tsanchez tsanchez wrote:

I would put a 56 jet in, leave the sec alone and possibly run a 10.5 power valve. With a stock type engine they make a lot of vac so it may not open the valve fast enough.
Check float level.
Make sure ign timing is correct, I would put it at 12 initial and use ported vac to begin.
Make sure centrifugal advance it working.
 
Smoky yunick used to say I can find 95%  of your carb problems in the dist, and its true, most issues with carb tuning is just because it can be adjusted doesnt mean you should. 
 
it's pulling a consistant 16" of vacuum...i'll probably try the 10.5 pv like you said though. it feels like its starving once the secondaries open...
 
ignition is good...eh, well decent; i have the initial around 12-15. i'm using the stock dizzy, but with an hei module. i havent checked the total timing yet..also have one of those parts store "flamethrower" coils the PO installed.
 
i'd be leaning towards the advance too, but i had a holley 600 on there initially, (it's the carb for my other vehicle). it ran great with the 600 and felt a lot stronger.


Edited by davidotye - May/14/2012 at 7:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2012 at 7:23pm
I would put a 56 jet in, leave the sec alone and possibly run a 10.5 power valve. With a stock type engine they make a lot of vac so it may not open the valve fast enough.
Check float level.
Make sure ign timing is correct, I would put it at 12 initial and use ported vac to begin.
Make sure centrifugal advance it working.
 
Smoky yunick used to say I can find 95%  of your carb problems in the dist, and its true, most issues with carb tuning is just because it can be adjusted doesnt mean you should. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davidotye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2012 at 7:12pm
Originally posted by tsanchez tsanchez wrote:

What jetting?
 
.54 primary
.67 secondary
 
i honestly havent read the plugs yet
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2012 at 6:52pm
What jetting?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davidotye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2012 at 6:04pm
Originally posted by Sonic Silver Sonic Silver wrote:

] The yellow spring opens  the secondaries at a lower RPM than the silver and black springs that are included. The stock accelerator pump nozzle should be a .031 , instead of a .035, unless Holley has changed it. The .031 would give a lesser shot for a longer duration, as opposed to the .035 or.037, which gives a bigger shot for a shorter period. Have you tried moving the accelerator pump cam screw from  position one to two, or vice versa? I believe that the stock pump cam is orange. 
 
i have the entire spring kit...i went through them all and the long yellow one is the one that works the best as it is right now.
 
i misspoke, it did have a .031 originally.
 
it does have the orange cam; i did not try switching the screw position yet. Isnt the 2nd position for a smaller/longer shot?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sonic Silver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2012 at 6:00pm
Originally posted by davidotye davidotye wrote:

thanks for all the responses..at least for now i'm gonna run what i've got...till i find a bigger one for cheap. i dont really want to drop the cash on a rebuild kit for this one, so here's the issue with this one:
 
my main problem is a hesitation when i go from idle or cruise to WOT...then bogging once the secondaries open up. i havent tried much tuning yet, but i have tried all the springs and the bogging is kept to a minimum with the long yellow spring. the stock accelerator nozzle is .35; i had a .37 lying around so i put that on and went up two sizes on the secondary jets with no effect.
 
any suggestions are appreciated!
The yellow spring opens  the secondaries at a lower RPM than the silver and black springs that are included. The stock accelerator pump nozzle should be a .031 , instead of a .035, unless Holley has changed it. The .031 would give a lesser shot for a longer duration, as opposed to the .035 or.037, which gives a bigger shot for a shorter period. Have you tried moving the accelerator pump cam screw from  position one to two, or vice versa? I believe that the stock pump cam is orange. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davidotye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2012 at 5:30pm
thanks for all the responses..at least for now i'm gonna run what i've got...till i find a bigger one for cheap. i dont really want to drop the cash on a rebuild kit for this one, so here's the issue with this one:
 
my main problem is a hesitation when i go from idle or cruise to WOT...then bogging once the secondaries open up. i havent tried much tuning yet, but i have tried all the springs and the bogging is kept to a minimum with the long yellow spring. the stock accelerator nozzle is .35; i had a .37 lying around so i put that on and went up two sizes on the secondary jets with no effect.
 
any suggestions are appreciated!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davidotye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2012 at 5:21pm
Originally posted by nda racer nda racer wrote:

You can't compare the cfm ratings of Holley Avengers and HPs to the regular old Holleys.
 
Why is that?
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