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71-74 Jav Window guide Bushings "No More Wobble"

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amxman74 View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/08/2018 at 1:17pm
Hi Buster

I had asked for a set in March. I see that you have some done. Please let know how to pay for the parts and were to send it the funds as well as the cost.

Thank you Dennis
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/05/2018 at 10:17am
For anyone using these - you will need to rivet these in place as there's not room for either bolt heads or nuts on the top due to the way the bracket fits into the door. I suppose flat head screws facing down may work but rivets are a sure bet and simple and cheap.
the areas I'm pointing to in red here are why rivets work best - there's precious little clearance here, only as much as that metal bracket is offset - so don't try bolts and nuts.

I stated the rivet size to use above and they are a perfect fit.
My windows work better now than they ever have for me - and likely better now than in the past 30 years.
One other tip - clean and polish that post these ride on! There's MORE surface area in contact with it now than with the original AMC parts, which means more parts rubbing or sliding.
Because there is more surface area it means the PSI is less on a given area and that's good - less wear, like they say, would you rather have a 120 pound lady with pointy high heels step on your toes, or an elephant? (Maybe it depends on the lady?)
But the post being clean and a bit of lube are important.

Mine literally glide up and down now. 






Edited by billd - May/05/2018 at 10:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/05/2018 at 10:00am
Buster,

You da man. Great quality job.  Thumbs Up



73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hitman33dp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2018 at 4:21pm
Wow! This looks like a great solution to the window problems we always have with our cars! Buster, if you come up with a price let me know. I want 1 set for the car I'm rebuilding now, but if the price is right, I may want to go ahead and get sets for my other Javelins.
74 "NOT A REAL AMX" Javelin / 2 x 74 Javelins / 71 Javelin SST
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2018 at 11:47pm
08001 3M weatherstrip adhesive. I really don't expect it to last forever, it needed only to be tough while I had my fingers and tools in the door putting things together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXAL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2018 at 11:35pm
What did you use for glue?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/28/2018 at 11:42pm
To use the kit, you will need only basic tools such as a T30 torx driver, 7/16" socket, extensions and ratchet.
I recommend some adhesive in addition to the tape provided on the glides and also recommend using 3/16" diameter by 1/2" grip range "pop rivets) to install the new shouldered bushing.
(Of course you'll need other tools necessary to remove the door panels, of course - this is assuming you have the panel already removed)

I used small amounts of adhesive above and below the adhesive strips provided on the side glides.
I used a worn metal cutting disk in my Dremel to grind away small parts of the rivets that hold the bushing in the bracket so I could easily use a punch to drive the original rivets out - this way I didn't risk bending or distorting anything in the process.

The T30 is to adjust the fore and aft tilt of the glass when done. There are two screws in the very bottom edge of the door that hold a bracket that the window post sits on when it's installed. Loosening those two screws at the bottom and sliding the bottom post bracket forward will tilt the window to the back, moving the bracket to the rear will tilt the glass forward. 
There is a quarter inch bolt at te top of the door that holds the window rod/post/bar in place, you'll need to remove that bolt and slide the post out of the door in order to replace the plastic parts.

I removed the bracket from the glass (four quarter inch nuts - use your 7/16" socket, a short extension and ratchet to remove the nuts) I then removed what remained of the original plastic/nylon glides, and used acetone to clean the inside of the bracket where the new glides will be adhered to.
One photo shows where I used small clamps to hold the pieces in the bracket so the adhesive I used could set up (the tape actually didn't stick to the slick material and I wanted the pieces to stick better while my fumble-fingers put things back together in the door)

Anyway, maybe the pics and such will help.
The parts are EXCELLENT - sized well, very nice. I did use a file to round the edges of the bushing as I mentioned earlier so it would fit flat and snug against the bracket and on the left door, likely due to tolerances in the manufacturing of the car way back then, I had to use a file and take a small small amount off each side of the bushing so it would fit into the bracket otherwise in the left door bracket, it didn't fit until I took a bit off each side. Then it slipped right in place so I could rivet it into place.

This shows the old "glides" and the new, larger pieces - with the adhesive tape mentioned. I added some "glue" above and below that strip.......


Showing old bushing still in place in the bracket, and the new part you will put in its place - 


I used a file and rounded this edge on both sides so the bushing would fit down flat into the bracket -


New parts in place, glass not yet bolted back to this plate - 


I used my Dremel and small cutting wheel to grind away a bit of the rivet so I could simply punch them out.....



The bottom edge of the door showing T30 torx screws you need to loosen to adjust the forward or rearward tilt of the glass when all done - and above that, the two bolts you need to remove to get the bushing bracket out to replace the bushing -


Clamping so the glue I used can set up a bit - and help press the adhesive tape against the bracket -



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scene One Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/28/2018 at 6:04pm
Good Tip Build
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/27/2018 at 10:25pm
Just a hint or tip on using these parts (which are excellent, by the way)  
In the picture below, I suggest using a file, whatever, to round the edges a bit to get the piece to fit down into the bracket - otherwise the squared edges will hit the radius of the bracket and hold it off from the bracket a bit in the middle and then riveting or bolting it in will or may warp or bend the middle in as the edges will be held up by the radius of the metal bracket.
Hope that makes sense - easier to see than to explain what I mean - if you leave it squared on the edges shown, it won't fit all the way flat against the metal piece - (ok, so a minute amount, but enough......it bothered me, ok? LOL)






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2018 at 3:01pm
Buster, these look fantastic!! Thanks so much for making these! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi powered Javelin
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