To Mini Tub? Or not?

No need to move the rear back unless you just want to, or don't like the wheel forward in the wheel well, or the tires you want to run won't fit without the move. You would nee a custom length driveshaft also. Same thing with mini tubs. Unless you're planning on running a larger tire at some point there is no need.

If relocating the springs I'd use sliders instead of shackles. They handle better since they can't lean. Weld or bolt a piece of rectangular tubing on the inside of the rail and mount the slider on that. Easier than a shackle, unless you use an offset shackle, which has even more potential to lean in curves...

I think this depends on the look that you are looking for...With my 17x10 and 5.75 back spacing I thought it would be tight to the 1/4 panel and it is.  I did move my rear end back the 1 inch to help clearance up front but now it is tight in the back at the 1/4 lip.  I trimmed as much as I can remove, next is to try to roll the lip but the inner structure is right there.  I had my ride height set with 1/4 down almost to the tire a got into the tire the first trip around the block, so when we set the pinion angle we raised the ride height.  I wanted some dish to the wheels so I'm happy with the wheels, but I think it sets to high in the rear.  My uncle loves it thanks it's perfect.  I'm considering narrowing my rear 2 to 3 inches and lowering my ride height, and in turn may make me mini tube my car as well.

Edited by mitchs66 - May/31/2016 at 8:20pm

It's the '90-'92 Ranger 8.8 right in the 56-56.5 width range.  If I use a short axle from '90-'92 I can narrow it 2.875" or a short axle from a '93-'97 would be 1.875.  My front wheels will move the outside of my tire in one inch so I plan on moving them to the rear and looking things over.

Tub it, no time like the present. Axle swap probably means new driveshaft anyway. Tub it big enough that you don't have tire contact body problems, then go with the appropriate wheel offset.

You'll thank yourself when the car turns out great !

The decision between tubbing or mini-tubbing come down to structure. Mine is a dedicated street car and I didn't want to deal with a cage. You can mini-tub in such a way that you don't lose the structural integrity of the car, but a full tub job needs at LEAST a 6 point cage to accomplish this IMO. I have built both over the years. My Classic chassis is probably stronger than factory now because I used 16g tubs and new rear subframe rails in my mini-tub. If I was building a drag car (full or part time), there is no doubt, I would do a full tub job.