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Tire Choices for Autocross/track days |
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shootist
AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023 |
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Oh darn. Ok, I wanted to be sure that a staggered wheel size or tire size (height wise) wouldn't cause me problems. Looks like just under 26" tall tire in the front and at or just under 27" tall tire in the back to give me the size I want/need and keep the prices under control by choosing popular sizes.
Anybody have comment to add, good or bad about having a slightly taller tire in the rear? |
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5787 |
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The only issue with staggered fitment is that you can't rotate. If you are just starting out, I'd be looking at budget options. I have a low budget track day car, just cutting laps every now and then for a bit of fun, typically 5 or 6 lap sessions. Have Nitto NT01 up front, they have 100 tread wear rating and do look like they will wear out fairly quickly (maybe 3 or 4 track days), Federal RS-R on the back, 140 tread wear rating and they do look to be a lot more durable. Neither of these will obviously be suitable if you need to run 200 or more on the tread wear.
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shootist
AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023 |
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Thanks for the responses everyone. New to the autocross scene but it looks fun and will be more fun learning the car and its limits more than trying to compete with others. I am relatively certain that it is going to perform very well as the car certainly is responsive and predictable. There is no way around staggered since with the power I am putting down I need as much rubber in the back as I can possibly fit or it is just going to be a drift car. Current BFGoodrich T/A tires (255/60-15) offers no traction at any speed. The car is dangerous to drive as it is because it has no problem smoking the tires at highway speeds so I have to do something.
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DaemonForce
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2012 Location: Olympia, WA Status: Offline Points: 1070 |
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At the very least change your rear tire package to something that will keep a steady grip. I figured there's no way to go wrong with the Falkens but the only weakness is snow and ice.
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shootist
AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023 |
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This car will never see snow or ice period. It hibernates in the winter in its cave. A wet road may be a possibility if it happens to get caught out in an unpredictable summer shower but if there is any hint of rain I do not drive it. I am even considering a mini-tub at this point to get 315's up under the back.
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Red Devil
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1743 |
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Have you read Ray Larson's thread on his Javelin. Not autocross, but 275-50-15 Hoosier R6s front and rear, but not a 200TW. Expect the CF front and rear suspension with 17" or 18" wheels should allow wider tires to fit.
http://theamcforum.com/forum/the-story-of-my-engine-by-ray-larson_topic12796.html Some on other forum running 325-50-15s on rear with leafs, to give an idea on size that fits ... but may be tight for clearance if lowered. http://amccars.net/cgi/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1319485964 |
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SirDigger
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: May/23/2012 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 2455 |
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Dont go to wide on the rear, too much traction will result in an unbalanced understeer handling at corners, thats not that bad on a track,
because you´ll have the possibilitys to choose your path, and take advantage from the traction and power your javelin has. but on the autocross the way to go is narrow an fixed. For Tires Conti Sport contact 6 is an awesome tire. |
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SirDigger&his german Friends are looking for Parts http://theamcforum.com/forum/the-german-amc-forum-ambassadorsirdigger-needs_topic83570.html
1970 Javelin SST 304 1970 Javelin SST 360 |
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shootist
AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023 |
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Can you expand on the unbalanced understeer digger? With pushing well over 800HP at the crank and a detroit locker diff in the rear I am pretty sure I could easily overcome any understeer with a tap of the gas pedal. I am more concerned about unintentional oversteer because the back-end decides to go left when I want to go right. Keep the feedback coming guys. The day of the rear swap is rapidly approaching as the trans should be in place this weekend.
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5787 |
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800 HP is well beyond my level of experience, I think you should probably just focus on drifting rather than autocross or maybe install some sort of throttle stop at around 500 HP.
This is what a roughly 500 HP Aussie Valiant Charger looks like doing autocross and annihilating the rest of the field in the process. Vortech boosted and injected 360 Mopar FWIW. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wuPv4kO4LE Edited by WesternRed - May/06/2017 at 6:02am |
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ghinmi
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/04/2010 Location: Grand Rapids MI Status: Offline Points: 978 |
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Agreed, 800 hp is a LOT for 200 treadwear tires on 17 or 18" wheels. Mine made 535 to the tire and I have to be very conscious of the throttle input with the 315/35r17 NT05s on. From my experience, they'll hook worse on the strip than the street or a parking lot. I can generally go full throttle in 3rd gear and up as long as I'm easy on the shifts to keep from knocking the tires off.
It sounds to me like you'd be best served to get two pair of rear wheels. One with drag radials for street driving and drag racing. And one with 200tw tires and limiting the power somehow for autocross. |
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1975 Cherokee S - Turbo Hemi stick shift autocross/drag race/street 9.97 @ 140.4
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