Timken Rear Main Seal 195.6

woah. that would be great. i cynically expect it to be a 199/232/258 seal mis-labelled.

i'm not sure the block is cut for a two-piece.

if you need a photo of the affected area let me know, if you don't have one apart yet.



Edited by tomj - Mar/12/2018 at 9:41pm

There is a spike... I don't remember if it's in the upper cavity or the main cap though. I looked in a 64 TSM but no good photo. Text says crank must be removed to install upper seal packing though, so I suspect the spike is there. Would be easy enough to remove... with crank out.

I also suspect they have the 195.6 confused with the 199...

also, i had the unfortunate opportunity to have a rear seal installed in-car, in my new motor. the builder himself did it at a friend's shop. he was able to do so by removing the rear cap, loosening one other, and the crank sag was enough to snake the new seal in. it comes with a copper wire "puller", it grips the new seal and is pulled through; the pulling causes the "diameter" to shrink. the grip is held by the block squeezing it as it passes through and lets go when it exits. so far, so good.

the long-winded point was, a Best type seal can be replaced without removing the crank.

Okey Dokey.   I have a bad rear main leak on my 64 Classic that I just got in trade.  I can't stand an oil leak.  I'm not a very good housekeeper but I can't stand an oil leak.  I have ordered the Best Gasket kit from Galvin's and the Lisle Sneaky Pete tool, and I will try to replace the seal by just dropping the oil pan when things dry out up here on the Central Coast.  Thanks again.  Joe

Even with the Sneaky Pete, LOOSEN ALL MAIN CAPS. Just leave the bolts finger snug in #1, the others can be pretty loose. No more than a 1/16" gap in the rear. If too much gap the seal might come out of the groove and pinch between cap and crank, but it shouldn't. The seal needs to be lubricated -- some soak it in oil over night. Once you get the top half in leave about 1/4" on each end. Use a 1/4" BRASS punch and small hammer to pack the seal up in the ends. Then cut off even and install per instructions. Don't forget to use a bit of Permatex #2 on the little rubber pieces.

The lower one can be tough too! It needs to be rolled or pressed in with a piece of pipe/socket/etc. close to the journal diameter. I've had people recommend trimming the ends just slightly long so they push up into the upper ends, but that's hard to do. Taper the ends when you trim if you trim longer.

I've NEVER been able to get a rope seal 100% drip free. Almost, but it will still "mark it's spot" when parked hot, not leak when cold and not sling oil everywhere while running. Didn't have the "Best" material back when I did my last one -- that was just coming to market. Hopefully it's a lot better than the older style -- is from what I've heard.