T-10 rebuild

A quick look shows nothing broken but plenty of wear. I can grab the output shaft and move it in and out about 1/8 of an inch. 1st gear also has a lot of end play on the mainshaft. The shift fork grooves are severely worn as is one shift fork. The teeth on 3rd gear that the slider lock to are beat up, looks like normal wear-power shifting may have taken there toll. The teeth points are broken off in many places and they are worn at an angle that would allow it to pop out of gear.

Once the tapered pin is out you can pull out on the reverse shaft. This pulls the reverse shift fork out of the reverse gear. Make sure the speedo gear is out and remove the bolts holding the tail housing on. you should be able to remove the tail housing.

           

After getting the tail housing off and the reverse gear off this is the view of the back of the t-10. A lot of the problems this transmission have are right here. The rear bearing walks back and forth in the aluminum support and the output shaft walks back and forth in the bearing. 

Disassembly of the main shaft can start with the removal of the mid plate. There is a snap ring and spacer that holds the output shaft to the bearing. The snap ring shown holds the bearing to the mid plate. The problems I found in this area were that the snap ring shown allowed the bearing to move in the mid plate, requiring the mid plate to be replaced. I also found the output shaft could move in the rear bearing. This is controlled by the snap ring, the thickest one that will fit in the grove is the one to be used. One thing I found out is that a steel mid plate was used on a handful of super t-10s. The amc t-10 uses an aluminum one. The stock replacement was about $30, the steel one was priced at $200.