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Suspension rebuild with part #'s, need opinions

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JolleyGreenSST View Drop Down
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    Posted: Nov/10/2018 at 5:30am
Hey guys, 
I looked at the sticky in this forum and PST doesn't have a complete "deluxe or super kit" for the javelin of any kind, and the only standard kit they have is the OE rubber type for $209 shipped part #FEKAMC702
I really wanted the polygraphite because it is supposed to be quieter then polyurethane. So since thats not available I was trying to gather together all the parts on Rockauto that I would need to rebuild the front suspension on my 72 Javelin and I wanted to know if this parts list sounded complete and if I needed anything else?
2 upper ball joints. MEVOTECH GK3082
2 lower ball joints. QUICK STEER K3083
4 upper control arm bushings (with 2 little rings/spacer?). MOOG K3096
2 lower control arm bushings. MOOG K3059
2 stabilizer bar links. QUICK STEER K3093
2 outer tie rods. QUICK STEER ES368RL
1 complete set of strut rod bushings with hardware. DORMAN 531650
Everything above matches the components in the PST kit for 129.48 
I can add the following...
2 inner tie rods. ACDELCO 45A0108
1 tie rod adjusting sleeve. QUICK STEER ES2032S
2 rear forward leaf spring bushings. MOOG K200958
4 rear shackle bushings. MOOG K8785
For a total of $212.06 with 5% off total 201.45 plus shipping which gets me to about $236 shipped.
So am I missing anything other then shocks, springs and sway bars do I have the right quantity of each part? Do you guys think this is a good deal or is it worth the extra effort and money to go with poly bushings of some kind. Thanks guys.


Edited by JolleyGreenSST - Nov/11/2018 at 3:29am
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2018 at 5:58am
You only need 2 lower control arm bushings.

Yes you can add the remaining stuff to complete the suspension and steering rebuild.
Though I assume you have new shocks, if not obtain a set.

Check the condition of your idler arm. It may need a new bushing. Also check your pitman arm, it may need replacement.

You will not notice poly bushings on the sway bar on normal driving.

Though you may feel some bumps more with poly shock bushings. Stiffness and more bump feel with poly at the rest of the suspension.

I had to modify my strut rod bushings to allow smoother feel with poly, so they won't be so harsh.

I would say keep up with stock strut rod bushings, and replace every 10 or so years if daily driven.

If you are to auto cross, poly is the way to go for all bushings.  But you may not like it for daily driving..




Edited by 304-dude - Nov/10/2018 at 6:06am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Mopar_guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2018 at 8:29am
My suggestion is on on ball joints, tie rod ends, pittman and idler arms is that if the joints are still tight and move smoothly (no rust in them) then keep them. Those OE parts are better than the replacements and it will save you some money. My car has over 100k on it and it had all it's original tie rod end ends, idler arm and lower ball joints that are still in good working condition. I did replace the bushing in the idler arm. When it comes to replacement parts, this saying becomes very relevant -  Just because it's new doesn't make it good. I went thru 2 Moog pittman arms in 2 summers before they went obsolete. They were junk. I put the better Meveotech one on and it's holding up well after 3 years, well until I changed out the whole suspension for an IFS this year. Smile

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JolleyGreenSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2018 at 10:44pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

You only need 2 lower control arm bushings.

Yes you can add the remaining stuff to complete the suspension and steering rebuild.
Though I assume you have new shocks, if not obtain a set.

Check the condition of your idler arm. It may need a new bushing. Also check your pitman arm, it may need replacement.

You will not notice poly bushings on the sway bar on normal driving.

Though you may feel some bumps more with poly shock bushings. Stiffness and more bump feel with poly at the rest of the suspension.

I had to modify my strut rod bushings to allow smoother feel with poly, so they won't be so harsh.

I would say keep up with stock strut rod bushings, and replace every 10 or so years if daily driven.

If you are to auto cross, poly is the way to go for all bushings.  But you may not like it for daily driving..


So only one lower control arm bushing per side. I'm use to A-arms I guess. I think I've decided to go rubber on this one since I'd like it to be comfortable enough to use on longer trips. Thanks for the reply.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JolleyGreenSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/10/2018 at 10:48pm
Originally posted by Mopar_guy Mopar_guy wrote:

My suggestion is on on ball joints, tie rod ends, pittman and idler arms is that if the joints are still tight and move smoothly (no rust in them) then keep them. Those OE parts are better than the replacements and it will save you some money. My car has over 100k on it and it had all it's original tie rod end ends, idler arm and lower ball joints that are still in good working condition. I did replace the bushing in the idler arm. When it comes to replacement parts, this saying becomes very relevant -  Just because it's new doesn't make it good. I went thru 2 Moog pittman arms in 2 summers before they went obsolete. They were junk. I put the better Meveotech one on and it's holding up well after 3 years, well until I changed out the whole suspension for an IFS this year. Smile
I was going with Moog where ever I could afford it because I've head of them before and thought they were a Good brand. I've never heard of Mevotech before so are they a higher quality brand or is is it just there pitman arms? Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/11/2018 at 12:59am
Good call on the rubber bushings I think. I put poly on my Opel GT but changed back to rubber recently and like it much better. I have a mixture on my AMX and it's not too bad except the polys squeak sometimes even though I put silicone grease on them. I think I used poly in the rear and rubber in the front on that car.
'73 Javelin 360 (current project)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JolleyGreenSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/11/2018 at 2:51am
Originally posted by CamJam CamJam wrote:

Good call on the rubber bushings I think. I put poly on my Opel GT but changed back to rubber recently and like it much better. I have a mixture on my AMX and it's not too bad except the polys squeak sometimes even though I put silicone grease on them. I think I used poly in the rear and rubber in the front on that car.
Thanks, I have a later model mach1 with suspension mods that I'm selling, and I hate driving it over any bumps and definitely in traffic because its a stick. Don't get me wrong its a blast on the autocross and when I'm playing with it but I despise it any other time so it doesn't get used very often, Plus I don't like working on the newer stuff with no room under the hood. So it is being sold to gather funds for my projects cars. 
getting back on suspension, I can get all four KYB GR2/excel-G shocks for an extra $78 if I have them shipped together. I think that's a great deal, but my question to everyone is now, have you guys  had any experience with these shocks and from what I researched they seem pretty good and a improvement over stock but not as harsh as the gas-a-just models.

Also rock auto has front coils (sold in pairs) by Moog $72 or AC-delco $64 any suggestions on those being any good?


Edited by JolleyGreenSST - Nov/11/2018 at 2:59am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/11/2018 at 4:49am
Originally posted by JolleyGreenSST JolleyGreenSST wrote:



Originally posted by CamJam CamJam wrote:

Good call on the rubber bushings I think. I put poly on my Opel GT but changed back to rubber recently and like it much better. I have a mixture on my AMX and it's not too bad except the polys squeak sometimes even though I put silicone grease on them. I think I used poly in the rear and rubber in the front on that car.

Thanks, I have a later model mach1 with suspension mods that I'm selling, and I hate driving it over any bumps and definitely in traffic because its a stick. Don't get me wrong its a blast on the autocross and when I'm playing with it but I despise it any other time so it doesn't get used very often, Plus I don't like working on the newer stuff with no room under the hood. So it is being sold to gather funds for my projects cars. 
getting back on suspension, I can get all four KYB GR2/excel-G shocks for an extra $78 if I have them shipped together. I think that's a great deal, but my question to everyone is now, have you guys  had any experience with these shocks and from what I researched they seem pretty good and a improvement over stock but not as harsh as the gas-a-just models.

Also rock auto has front coils (sold in pairs) by Moog $72 or AC-delco $64 any suggestions on those being any good?



CamJam has gone through springs and thinks he has made a good choice for his 72. He should pop in with the brand and part number. I'd go with it, as long as your happy with stock height and stiffness. Once you play with springs things get a wee off on expectations. Front coils seem to be the bane of a simple upgrade as it seems no company is perfect and compatible with others with a cross reference. Though some spring company's do make fine springs, it's how you want to dial in your ride.

I think CamJam may have his ride height settled by now, as his new springs were a wee high to start with.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/11/2018 at 7:53am
Originally posted by JolleyGreenSST JolleyGreenSST wrote:

I was going with Moog where ever I could afford it because I've head of them before and thought they were a Good brand. I've never heard of Mevotech before so are they a higher quality brand or is is it just there pitman arms? Thanks.

Moog use to be the best but after they were bought out, there stuff can be junk. Read this for the explanation https://www.suspension.com/blog/where-are-moog-parts-made/
When I bought the first Mevotech part I couldn't find much on them but for the price I decided to try them out and I've been happy so far. So far I used 3 pittman arms, 2 outer tie rods and 1 ball joint across 3 different vehicles and they're still good.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/11/2018 at 8:10am
Originally posted by JolleyGreenSST JolleyGreenSST wrote:


getting back on suspension, I can get all four KYB GR2/excel-G shocks for an extra $78 if I have them shipped together. I think that's a great deal, but my question to everyone is now, have you guys  had any experience with these shocks and from what I researched they seem pretty good and a improvement over stock but not as harsh as the gas-a-just models.

Also rock auto has front coils (sold in pairs) by Moog $72 or AC-delco $64 any suggestions on those being any good?

I had Gas-a-adjusts on mine all around and they did stiffen it up a bit. I still have them on the rear but have the coil overs on the front now.

If those are the springs I'm think they are, they're to heavy and stiff. I got burnt by those years ago. I called Springs n Things and told them what I wanted and got the right springs for it for a good price. They're still good. They use to have their catalog online but I see they want you to call or email now. http://www.springsnthings.com/coil-springs.htm
There's a lot of information on here (if you can find it) about front springs.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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