Sub frame connectors - overkill?

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   I would definitely add subframe connectors and I would make them myself.
A friend of mine had a gremlin with a 4 speed which he would launch at every opportunity. At the end of 1 summer, he couldn't close the doors any more from the car being "twisted" so hard..
I'm putting 295/50s in my Hornet and will be doing some drag racing with it so frame connectors are just easy and cheap piece of mind..

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BigBlockDaddy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Aug/08/2016 Location: Edmonton Status: Offline Points: 25	Post Options Post Reply Quote BigBlockDaddy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 4:46pm
	I would definitely add subframe connectors and I would make them myself. A friend of mine had a gremlin with a 4 speed which he would launch at every opportunity. At the end of 1 summer, he couldn't close the doors any more from the car being "twisted" so hard.. I'm putting 295/50s in my Hornet and will be doing some drag racing with it so frame connectors are just easy and cheap piece of mind..

fasttony Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/09/2011 Location: US Status: Offline Points: 1188	Post Options Post Reply Quote fasttony Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 5:32pm
	I have been considering sub-frame connectors also added strength is a good thing, I am in the middle of restoring my Javelin so this would be the time to add connectors. It seems AMC learned about sub-frame strength as they were building cars, the lower right front sub-frame in light green primer is an early 68' Javelin my sheet metal donor, the picture in gray primer is my 70 lower right front section, it looks like the 70 has an added 1/8" thick plate on the inside vertical wall and the lower rear section of the 70 sub-frame is made of 1/8" steel where the 68 is .075" that's quite a bit of extra strength, the added steel happened sometime between the start of building Javelins and first quarter of 70. My 68 sheet metal donor is so early AMC had to hammer the rear trunk floor on both sides to get it on the line. Tony Edited by fasttony - Mar/23/2017 at 5:35pm

Lyle Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lyle Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 8:41pm
	My 69 has sub frame connectors from who knows when. It's a 00 car that I had to get the VIN code registered for it as it was not in the system. The differential had twisted off the rear springs more then once, driveshaft had let go and transmission casing pieces were in the rockers. I cut the old connectors off and put in new 1" x 2" rectangular tubing that was originally there after straightening the body on a rotisserie upside-down. That stated the car had much abuse in early life and was not off straight by more then 1/8". So yes I think under some circumstances they are probably a good idea. Just depends on what you are planning.

Rampar Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/23/2013 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 133	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rampar Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 10:23pm
	I Have a 66 American with full poly suspension & manual steering. Keep in mind this car is a weekend warrior Health V8 and soon to be mini tubed. but let me tell you I've drove this car as my daily for about a month or two so i had a feel for how she drove and the improvement from Some 2x3 1/8th wall from sub frame to sub frame with some fish plates it was like a new car. That corner coming off the freeway car feels so much more stable and responsive, not to mention the traction differences. plus i have less than $75 in mine
	1966 Rampar American

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 5:34am
	If you're driving the car hard, road or track, you will definitely benefit from "subframe" connectors. Early to mid 60s and 70s unit bodies aren't as stiff as the 50s (and very early 609s AMC) unit bodies, or newer ones (from what, mid 80s on?). If you plan on driving the car daily connectors wouldn't be a bad idea -- can only make the body hold up longer and better even under normal driving. Today's "normal" is harder than 1950 and 60s "normal" in most cases. The "frames" of a unit body like this are actually called sills - the common subframes comes from GM cars that actually used separate subframes, mostly in front,not sills which are integral with the body. I know on some of the mid sized cars (mid 60s Chevelle and derivatives) they used very light rails tying the heavier frame ends together. For racing heavier connectors were welded in
	Frank Swygert

BDCVG Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/19/2007 Location: Endless Mtns. Status: Offline Points: 993	Post Options Post Reply Quote BDCVG Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 7:06am
	In the mid 80's I put a mild 360 in My Spirit GT. By the late 80's it was cracking at the windshield pillars . Go for the cheap insurance and get the connectors.
	1970 AMX 390 5 spd full Control Freaks front and rear suspension 2014 E63 AMG-S wagon 1965 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III