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Strut Rod FIX

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Greyhounds_AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/19/2018 at 12:31pm
No, I'm holding off until this winter. The AMX was out of service for 3 years during my transmission / header / steering column conversion so now that it's moving again I'm keeping it on the road until the weather gets cold.

I do plan to make a mold for the bushings after I get them machined to the right dimensions and then cast them in poly. But I'll try the Delrin first - maybe it'll be fine.
1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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rogue69 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rogue69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/09/2018 at 11:15am
I did install the delrin ball kit. The difference between the early and late Mustang kits is the diameter of the ball shoulder. The late kit is larger than the Rambler bracket hole, and the early kit is a bit smaller, so I went with that and added an o-ring to take up the slack.

The length of the steel sleeve seemed a bit too short - torqueing down the strut rod would put too much pressure on the ball, it seemed to me. So, I added a steel shim so that it snugs the ball down, but the torqueing pressure is on the sleeve.

I had the polyurethane bushings before, driving doesn't seem any different with the ball, although I did add a little caster, and made the left and right equal (guess I must have messed up when I put the poly bushings in). The car used to give a slight momentary pull just at first application of brakes, that appears to be gone. So, seems to work fine, no noise or anything weird, and moves freely without the undue strain on the rod from the poly bushings.

Yes, John was a very nice guy to work with.

Tim
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/09/2018 at 11:35am
Rogue69, maybe the added castor did not set well until you initiated a good stop, allowing pressure to seat the new components.

Even though I looked over the design from a single image, it is not much different than my concept, just the cup us made of billit an is more round than a modded concave cup.

One thing I did see to remove some of the swing resistance of the poly bushing, was to elongate the hole, though it is a small design change, as to lessen the harshness of poly when hitting bumps and pot holes.

The down side of changing design to elongated holes, is that the installer may not take the time to a line the slotted holes to follow the movement of the lower arms from down swing to up swing. Which makes installation a bit more complicated.

Maybe after a weeks use on the road, it will settle down, for another review from you.

At least greyhound, will have something to work with as for expectations and fitment when installing. He may come up with further corrections if he sees fit. Seems like greyhound is a good thinker and may have free time to tinker before making it a bolt in and forget it thing.

Edited by 304-dude - Oct/09/2018 at 12:10pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2018 at 8:54am
Originally posted by Greyhounds_AMX Greyhounds_AMX wrote:

Opentracker advised that the step in their Delrin bushing for the Mustang is 1-7/16", so all we'd have to do is reduce that slightly to get it to fit in out 1-3/8" strut rod bracket hole. 

I've ordered a set.

Is it winter yet? Hehehehehehehe! 

Kind of wondering how it's going, on the upgrade, if you started. 

I am sure that kit will be the best bolt in option for strut rod  suspensions.  Might be a wee harsh depending on how much clearances are within the ball cup for pivot without strain of movement. Also the cushioning factor, since the cupped poly is not as thick as the oem rubber type bushing.. though that is kinda expected, but should be more livable than any other aftermarket or custom strut replacement.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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343sharpstick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 343sharpstick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2018 at 8:58am
FYI, when I converted my car from the poly bushings to a rod-end I didn't notice any additional harshness.

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2018 at 9:09am
Originally posted by 343sharpstick 343sharpstick wrote:

FYI, when I converted my car from the poly bushings to a rod-end I didn't notice any additional harshness.


That's odd, as many who have, stated they did, and I figure that as a given for a poly strut rod bushing setup.

Though the pivot ball setup with the aftermarket kit should help as to nagate some of the negative feedback from an OEM fixed position bushing setup.


Edited by 304-dude - Dec/10/2018 at 9:11am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Trader View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2018 at 4:24pm
OK gentlemen,
Wanting opinions on doing something like this (lower three pictures): 
but thinking of a longer mounting stud on the bracket and poly or rubber on each side of the mounting bracket stud.
The parts at TSC would be less then $100, and very little fabrication to existing rods.
Your opinions?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2018 at 4:57pm
Originally posted by Trader Trader wrote:

OK gentlemen,
Wanting opinions on doing something like this (lower three pictures): 
but thinking of a longer mounting stud on the bracket and poly or rubber on each side of the mounting bracket stud.
The parts at TSC would be less then $100, and very little fabrication to existing rods.
Your opinions?

Not my style, as I don't care to shorten or lengthen the distance between stock rod pivots, unless major changes with upper and lower arm setups. What greyhound will be installing should work fine with minor mods. 
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Greyhounds_AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/11/2018 at 10:12pm
I haven't got a chance to dig into the strut rod mount thing yet, I figured I'd best finish the bluetooth tachometer conversion project I started first. That's almost done though.
1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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Dustintf522 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dustintf522 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/15/2020 at 3:09pm



I don't think I have the wrong bushing but theres so few threads Confused
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