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Strut Rod FIX |
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Greyhounds_AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2009 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 1268 |
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No, I'm holding off until this winter. The AMX was out of service for 3 years during my transmission / header / steering column conversion so now that it's moving again I'm keeping it on the road until the weather gets cold.
I do plan to make a mold for the bushings after I get them machined to the right dimensions and then cast them in poly. But I'll try the Delrin first - maybe it'll be fine.
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1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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rogue69
AMC Fan Joined: Dec/02/2015 Location: Seattle, WA Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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I did install the delrin ball kit. The difference between the early and late Mustang kits is the diameter of the ball shoulder. The late kit is larger than the Rambler bracket hole, and the early kit is a bit smaller, so I went with that and added an o-ring to take up the slack.
The length of the steel sleeve seemed a bit too short - torqueing down the strut rod would put too much pressure on the ball, it seemed to me. So, I added a steel shim so that it snugs the ball down, but the torqueing pressure is on the sleeve. I had the polyurethane bushings before, driving doesn't seem any different with the ball, although I did add a little caster, and made the left and right equal (guess I must have messed up when I put the poly bushings in). The car used to give a slight momentary pull just at first application of brakes, that appears to be gone. So, seems to work fine, no noise or anything weird, and moves freely without the undue strain on the rod from the poly bushings. Yes, John was a very nice guy to work with. Tim |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Rogue69, maybe the added castor did not set well until you initiated a good stop, allowing pressure to seat the new components.
Even though I looked over the design from a single image, it is not much different than my concept, just the cup us made of billit an is more round than a modded concave cup. One thing I did see to remove some of the swing resistance of the poly bushing, was to elongate the hole, though it is a small design change, as to lessen the harshness of poly when hitting bumps and pot holes. The down side of changing design to elongated holes, is that the installer may not take the time to a line the slotted holes to follow the movement of the lower arms from down swing to up swing. Which makes installation a bit more complicated. Maybe after a weeks use on the road, it will settle down, for another review from you. At least greyhound, will have something to work with as for expectations and fitment when installing. He may come up with further corrections if he sees fit. Seems like greyhound is a good thinker and may have free time to tinker before making it a bolt in and forget it thing. Edited by 304-dude - Oct/09/2018 at 12:10pm |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Is it winter yet? Hehehehehehehe! Kind of wondering how it's going, on the upgrade, if you started. I am sure that kit will be the best bolt in option for strut rod suspensions. Might be a wee harsh depending on how much clearances are within the ball cup for pivot without strain of movement. Also the cushioning factor, since the cupped poly is not as thick as the oem rubber type bushing.. though that is kinda expected, but should be more livable than any other aftermarket or custom strut replacement.
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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343sharpstick
AMC Addicted Joined: Mar/10/2010 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 554 |
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FYI, when I converted my car from the poly bushings to a rod-end I didn't notice any additional harshness.
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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That's odd, as many who have, stated they did, and I figure that as a given for a poly strut rod bushing setup. Though the pivot ball setup with the aftermarket kit should help as to nagate some of the negative feedback from an OEM fixed position bushing setup.
Edited by 304-dude - Dec/10/2018 at 9:11am |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6913 |
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OK gentlemen,
Wanting opinions on doing something like this (lower three pictures): but thinking of a longer mounting stud on the bracket and poly or rubber on each side of the mounting bracket stud. The parts at TSC would be less then $100, and very little fabrication to existing rods. Your opinions?
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Not my style, as I don't care to shorten or lengthen the distance between stock rod pivots, unless major changes with upper and lower arm setups. What greyhound will be installing should work fine with minor mods.
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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Greyhounds_AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2009 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 1268 |
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I haven't got a chance to dig into the strut rod mount thing yet, I figured I'd best finish the bluetooth tachometer conversion project I started first. That's almost done though.
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1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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Dustintf522
AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/08/2019 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 61 |
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I don't think I have the wrong bushing but theres so few threads
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