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strange relay

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AMC Apprentice
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    Posted: May/15/2019 at 8:32pm
Is this a low fuel relay for a '72 Javelin SST?  Its housing looks just as old as the buzzer one, but the wire colors are different from a diagram posted here by another user.  Also, are the metal housing horn relay, a heater/AC motor relay and a new Bosch style plastic box realy (30A) all the same or are the internals different?  Especially the heater unit.  i pretty sure the horn and the Bosches thingys are the same. The blower motor works, but the connection plug at the switch, was melted, the blower motor wire at the fuse panel was melted off its connector, and the white/tracer wire to the relay is crispy.

Thanks!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/15/2019 at 8:53pm
Headlight delay relay.

My fuse panel originally burnt taking the fuse connector too. Though this happened to the original owner, and had the blower motor replaced, along with a new fuse panel.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CHAR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/15/2019 at 9:22pm
Cool.  thanks.

yeah, the previous owner had a 130A alt. that he use to power some big stereo system and he fed it right thru the factory harness.  the end at the blower motor switch, the connector at the headlamp switch, the B1 terminal on the ignition switch and the hi-beam switch, along with the burnt heater/fuse connection were all sl*gged.  So was the original solenoid feed wire from the ign. switch.  found it burnt and bare after cutting away all the old tape around the dash harness.

A good thing the guy I bought it from didnt drive it and stowed it in a garage for a few years before I got it.  It was a rolling fire hazard.  Now to see if the delay relay works.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/15/2019 at 9:24pm
Poor connections get hot - and that's what melts connections and connectors. That's high current and and oxidation or loose connection and you are drawing all that through a high resistance - and that = heat.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2019 at 8:50am
^^^^ What Bill said.

None of the burned wires you described had anything to do with a 130A alternator or big sound system. They're not on the same circuit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2019 at 9:47am
bigbad is spot-on but I'll add to that to help prevent more BS about charging systems floating around.
So what if he had a 130 amp alternator? That's potential max output, NOT what it DOES put out. 
I would BET that a stock 55 (or later 62 amp) Motorola would power that "big stereo system". How can I figure that? I used to do Alpine car stereo contests and had a massive system in my Jeep - 2 amps, 4 cross-overs, 8 speakers, two large subs and powered it through dedicated circuit breakers under the hood.

Anyway, 130 amp only means if the battery is dead and you turn on all the lights, max out the AC, have EFI, and crank the sound to MAX, it would charge - but still likely NOT at 130. You can't run 130 amps through the stock wiring! You'd fry things.
The alternator puts out ONLY what is called for to maintain the regulated voltage. 
I will bet a nice steak dinner he never even came close to 130 amps in that beast. And if he did, you'd be replacing things other than blower motor wiring and relays.  That's a heck of a lot of power. 
The cars were wired to minimum specs - for example, headlamp wiring was 18 gauge, most others other than main branches were 16 or 14 gauge wire. 
Unless he fed the "massive stereo" through dedicated wiring through circuit breakers under the hood like I did with my Jeep, the stock wiring couldn't touch it.
Folks need to get over the marketing BS and junk that's circulating out there about the need for high capacity charging systems. 
The only reason someone with cars like ours - Javelin, AMX, Eagle, whatever, would need such a capability would be electric fans (there you are moving the horsepower need from the engine to the electrical system and yes, you can use basic formulas to figure voltage/amperage and get horsepower - bigbad69 knows those formulas I bet without Google.
Anyway, electric fans, EFI - because EFI requires CLEAN power - consistent power and really HUGE sound systems, and I mean big. 
And if you had EFI, electric fans, etc. and a huge capacity alternator - you had better be upgrading the wiring and swapping out fusible links first. 
The alternator rating is maximum output (and seriously, 130 would likely only load test at about 120 or so - unless you were lucky). It's like an ignition system. Just because it's rated at 80,000 volts does not mean that's what it puts out on a physically sound engine that's well tuned. If you pull a wire or have a problem, it can go up to that, but normally never will and that's proven on a scope. 
Same for charging systems - they put out only what's needed to stick to regulated voltage, likely well under 100 amps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CHAR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2019 at 11:50am
Thats all true, except you havent seen the extent of the jacked up wiring in this car.  I dont know what was in the trunk as far as equipment for the stereo, I just know that there were 3-8 ga. wires run from there to the pos. post on the starter solenoid, along with the 12v feed to the ign. switch, the 12v feed to the fuse panel, a 10 ga wire for the added power windows, a line for the added power locks, the elec. cooling fan, and the batt. feed from the internally regulated alt.  The resistance wire from the ignition circuit is gone and theres no ballast to the coil, which may account for the box of used coils living in the trunk.  Oh, and all the fusable links are gone, replaced by inline ATO's or nothing (ign. fuse)

The metal to metal connections inside were pretty clean.  No rust and very little discoloration or oxidation, only the plastic housings the 56 Packard pins plug into are melted, I assumed from over current.

I dont know if this guy won any contests with his stereo, I just know there are holes-in whats left of the the package tray for-4 8"ers, 1 12", 4 6" mids, and 2 tweeters.  a 6" bass, 6" mid, and a tweet in each door, and boxes in the truck for 2 more 12's.  then theres the 4 holes for more 8's on a panel behind the seat.  I hope the struts and the package tray are not to wrapped up in the structural integrity of the car, cause they are pretty much gone and replaced with a sheet of mdf. 

Thanks for the input.  Like most here I can figure out where its all supposed to go for it to work, its learning the whys is where I'm behind.
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