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Stock OEM vs. CORE/Reman'd shortblock

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Class Guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Class Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/17/2017 at 6:54pm
Boris,

Have you sonic checked AMC blocks?  You might call 390-401 blocks "thin", but my experience with 290-304-343-360 blocks is that they are anything but thin on the thrust sides.  They are thinner in the areas where the cylinders are adjacent, but I have found that .250"+ is not uncommon for the thrust areas of the walls.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/17/2017 at 7:13pm
No argument!

But I would prefer to start with a virgin given the choice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/17/2017 at 8:31pm
Originally posted by Boris Badanov Boris Badanov wrote:


Sorry, I loved the old high nickel myth. But it is just that, myth.

I loved it too, and at the time I had my 390 rebuilt due to losing 7 out of 8 pistons from detonation. Detonation was killing off road Jeep racing engines too and it was interesting to see the remains of a Jeep engine having nothing but a connecting rod and a wrist pin running up and down a cylinder that could be put back into service with a hone run through it. One of the few engines that could get away with that. Detonation made pistons disappear.,
You become a bit of a believer of the high nickel content blocks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/17/2017 at 9:44pm
I read in the textbook for my engine rebuilding class that crankshafts surface harden with use. The bearing journals get a slight yellowish color as the nickel in the alloy rises to the surface. This surface is far smoother and harder than on a reground crankshaft and develops over time.

If you believe that. I think there is some truth to it.

I suppose blocks could be the same way. Remembering back to my metallurgy class, the heat and stress cycles that go through things like blocks and crankshafts will relieve any stress points in the casting and make the crystalline structure of the molecules more homogenous.

Does this all really matter? Probably not. There is something to be said for a component that has proven its reliability for 40 years over a new one that is not yet proven.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/18/2017 at 6:53am
Originally posted by uncljohn uncljohn wrote:

Originally posted by Boris Badanov Boris Badanov wrote:


Sorry, I loved the old high nickel myth. But it is just that, myth.

I loved it too, and at the time I had my 390 rebuilt due to losing 7 out of 8 pistons from detonation. Detonation was killing off road Jeep racing engines too and it was interesting to see the remains of a Jeep engine having nothing but a connecting rod and a wrist pin running up and down a cylinder that could be put back into service with a hone run through it. One of the few engines that could get away with that. Detonation made pistons disappear.,
You become a bit of a believer of the high nickel content blocks.
the stock pistons were cast, and the ring lands werent the strongest........................IMHO, I would not run a cast piston in an AMC V8.  to me the forged piston will withstand detonation for a longer time before it fails............  but then you have to make sure it doesnt detonate to begin with....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/18/2017 at 8:30am
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:


[QUOTE=uncljohn]

>>>but then you have to make sure it doesnt detonate to begin with<<<


The point that many people ignore in the first place.

This was accomplished using the following steps.
1. The installation of spark plugs (Champions) 3 heat ranges colder helped prevent detonation caused by overheated spark plugs which caused pre-ignition and dieseling. This also significantly extended the life of the spark plugs.
2. The installation of a Carter Ignition module which detected DETONATION via a sensor mounted on the heads adjacent to a head bolt and then adjusted to retard the timing on the onset of detonation.
Triggered by the existing points and still installed and functioning after 27 some odd years.
As it was linear and difficult to adjust correctly the following steps were taken.
3. The purchase and use of MOROSO 104 OCTANE BOOST by the gallon. A necessary requirement due to the need for it on road trips on something that rarely got better than 16 mpg and a premium fuel at the pump of 92 Octane.
4. Replaced step 3 when the pump gas was reduced from 92 octane to the now current 91 octane by purchasing from the machine shop a set of open chamber heads left and not picked up by an off road racer who had them rebuilt and never picked up. This reduced the compression from the OEM 10.5:1 to something like a bit under 9.5:1 along with a careful tune and seeing to it the vacuum advance to the distributor was working correctly.

Some 50,000 miles later the steps above have proven to be effective in keeping further piston parts where they belong rather than in the oil pan. And gave the option if on a road trip and a fuel of higher than 91 octane is available. It is easy and quick to re-tune to keep the performance close to the level it was available with when 101 octane fuel was the norm and the car was built and expected to run using it.

I finally sold the one remaining OEM piston to a fellow in Florida who needed only one. It was no good to me.
I had purchased a crank/connecting rod/and piston rebuild kit when I had the engine rebuilt.

The 16MPG road trip mileage was massaged by the installation of a Ford Mustang W/C T5 transmission and a 3.15:1 positraction rear axle in 1991 to something around 24MPG which made road trips a whole lot more enjoyable.
I need to finish that up with finishing the Vintage Air A/C unit.
70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration
76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power
80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit
74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/18/2017 at 8:35am
Originally posted by uncljohn uncljohn wrote:

Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:


[QUOTE=uncljohn]

>>>but then you have to make sure it doesnt detonate to begin with<<<


The point that many people ignore in the first place.

This was accomplished using the following steps.
1. The installation of spark plugs (Champions) 3 heat ranges colder helped prevent detonation caused by overheated spark plugs which caused pre-ignition and dieseling. This also significantly extended the life of the spark plugs.
2. The installation of a Carter Ignition module which detected DETONATION via a sensor mounted on the heads adjacent to a head bolt and then adjusted to retard the timing on the onset of detonation.
Triggered by the existing points and still installed and functioning after 27 some odd years.
As it was linear and difficult to adjust correctly the following steps were taken.
3. The purchase and use of MOROSO 104 OCTANE BOOST by the gallon. A necessary requirement due to the need for it on road trips on something that rarely got better than 16 mpg and a premium fuel at the pump of 92 Octane.
4. Replaced step 3 when the pump gas was reduced from 92 octane to the now current 91 octane by purchasing from the machine shop a set of open chamber heads left and not picked up by an off road racer who had them rebuilt and never picked up. This reduced the compression from the OEM 10.5:1 to something like a bit under 9.5:1 along with a careful tune and seeing to it the vacuum advance to the distributor was working correctly.

Some 50,000 miles later the steps above have proven to be effective in keeping further piston parts where they belong rather than in the oil pan. And gave the option if on a road trip and a fuel of higher than 91 octane is available. It is easy and quick to re-tune to keep the performance close to the level it was available with when 101 octane fuel was the norm and the car was built and expected to run using it.

I finally sold the one remaining OEM piston to a fellow in Florida who needed only one. It was no good to me.
I had purchased a crank/connecting rod/and piston rebuild kit when I had the engine rebuilt.

The 16MPG road trip mileage was massaged by the installation of a Ford Mustang W/C T5 transmission and a 3.15:1 positraction rear axle in 1991 to something around 24MPG which made road trips a whole lot more enjoyable.
I need to finish that up with finishing the Vintage Air A/C unit.
I can understand it.  but IF I even hear it detonate,  you can bet theres going to be damage, (Since I have a hearing loss)  so for me I will for sure try not to have any detonation at all.  I had the one engine that would detonate when it used oil.  I could hear it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/18/2017 at 8:40am
Originally posted by uncljohn uncljohn wrote:

Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:


[QUOTE=uncljohn]

>>>but then you have to make sure it doesnt detonate to begin with<<<


The point that many people ignore in the first place.


2. The installation of a Carter Ignition module which detected DETONATION via a sensor mounted on the heads adjacent to a head bolt and then adjusted to retard the timing on the onset of detonation.
Triggered by the existing points and still installed and functioning after 27 some odd years.



This would be interesting...................since there is no doubt that it will sense detonation long before I even hear it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/18/2017 at 8:44am
A help when not sure.
If oil is in the air cleaner?
It would probably be a good time to run a compression check.
70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration
76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power
80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit
74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/18/2017 at 8:48am
Originally posted by uncljohn uncljohn wrote:

A help when not sure.
If oil is in the air cleaner?
It would probably be a good time to run a compression check.
true. and sometimes you will see it on the spark plugs.
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