Stock 360 output

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   PS: I know a 14 second car is pretty boring, but I need some help to make it go faster.

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
WesternRed Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799	Post Options Post Reply Quote WesternRed Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/16/2018 at 5:53am
	PS: I know a 14 second car is pretty boring, but I need some help to make it go faster.

wantajav Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/04/2009 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 1150	Post Options Post Reply Quote wantajav Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/16/2018 at 7:37pm
	100 lbs off = 0.1 sec off....

WesternRed Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799	Post Options Post Reply Quote WesternRed Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/16/2018 at 9:53pm
	Onto that, already taken the bumpers off. Maybe the back seat could come out?

wantajav Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/04/2009 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 1150	Post Options Post Reply Quote wantajav Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/17/2018 at 1:03pm
	is nitrous OK in Australia? Thinking a 75 or 100 shot at the most, might not be lethal to an old engine...that would get you near the 12's....

WesternRed Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799	Post Options Post Reply Quote WesternRed Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/17/2018 at 7:51pm
	Nitrous is fine, but I don't have any plans of going there at this stage, looking more for incremental gains with what I have. The ultimate goal is to build a stout 401 for it but that is still a long way off and may never happen. Options I have at the moment are: 1) A cam swap, I have no idea what's in it at the moment, but I assume relatively stock. I also don't have a lot of compression, so can't go too crazy in this area. What I have is a reground Comp XE262H and matching valve springs, which should help things along a bit. Downside is I still need to buy lifters, and probably a new timing set, rocker studs, pushrods and cobble together some adjustable rockers (currently have a mixed set of 1.6 and 1.7 Harland Sharp). 1B) Valve springs came up earlier, currently it will valve bounce around 5500, not sure that I really need to rev it this hard at the moment. I have the better springs above, but if I'm going to change the cam then they can probably wait. 2) Change the transmission valve body, at the moment it is basically a stock rebuilt 727 with performance frictions and a bolt in sprag. I did buy a used CRT reverse pattern manual valve body a while back, so this can go straight in but I don't have the instructions and I am still trying to work out if it needs some other changes to the accumulator and servo valves to work properly. Not sure what gains to expect here. 3) Exhaust, headers and a better exhaust may help, but with a relatively low HP 360, I'm not sure what the headers would achieve over factory free flows. Dual 2" exhaust could be upgraded to at least 2 1/4" to match the free flows and probably some better flowing mufflers. 4) Timing is currently 20 initial + 18 mechanical all in by 1750 RPM (no vacuum advance), maybe still some gains here with additional tinkering? I'd like to do timing control with the Holley Sniper, but I need to change the distributor for that. 5) Tuning, the Holley Sniper seems to have dialed the AFR in around 12.2-12.7 at WOT, not sure if this is good or bad? Also going a little rich on launch (11.5) so maybe I can change that with some tinkering as well. Lots of research still required in this department to know what I'm doing. 6) Tyres, currently running 26" x 10" slicks, well and truly overkill at my power level, but at least I don't have any traction problems. I'm running them at 16 psi, it doesn't break traction, so no need to go lower, but maybe they are slowing down a relatively low powered car. Seems like a lot of options and probably others I haven't thought of yet. Would be good to have some other peoples experience with these things to use as a bit of a guide. So far every time I've taken it out. I've run a little quicker, so at least I'm going in the right direction.

RUMBLR Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/03/2010 Location: South Australia Status: Offline Points: 118	Post Options Post Reply Quote RUMBLR Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/19/2018 at 3:52pm
	Id try a few more psi in the tyres - 25...then maybe keep going up? VPW have the amc lifters in their ebay store - 10% off at the moment...
	343 904 M20 - 11.83@115

WesternRed Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799	Post Options Post Reply Quote WesternRed Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/19/2018 at 4:55pm
	Can you run the slicks that high, certainly worth a try? Also considering if I should give the drag radials off the Javelin a try. Valve body change is looking like the most likely first candidate at the moment, just trying to track down the installation instructions and a few other bits by the looks of it. Out of interest, Precision International carries Johnson Hylift and they were the ones recommended by the cam grinder over all others. They also have Rollmaster timing sets cheaper than from the US.

RUMBLR Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/03/2010 Location: South Australia Status: Offline Points: 118	Post Options Post Reply Quote RUMBLR Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/20/2018 at 3:20am
	Max pressure should be listed on the sidewall... there should be no issue and more stable at top end with more air.
	343 904 M20 - 11.83@115

WesternRed Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799	Post Options Post Reply Quote WesternRed Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/20/2018 at 4:41am
	Sidewall only lists the maximum pressure when mounting the tires of 35 psi, no maximum operating pressure, tried looking on the MT website today and nothing listed there either. I'm sure a few more psi won't hurt.

Ken_Parkman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jun/04/2009 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 1814	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ken_Parkman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/20/2018 at 3:14pm
	If it is a race car only take the fan off and go to an electric. Also go to an electric water pump drive and take out the thermostat, deleting the heater hoses and bypass hose. That has multiple improvements, net hp increase and allows you to get the engine cool. Run the fan/water pump with the engine off and mist the rad with water from a cheap sprayer. Just mist, it sucks heat out like crazy as the water evaporates. Minimal effectiveness if there is still a thermostat in there. Get the temp below 140 on the starting line. The car will respond tremendously. Did you change to the torker? It and headers always help, even on a mild engine, especially with the right converter. The most important part of going fast is the torque converter. Quality is more important than stall speed. Max converter size of 10" for this. Those changes should get you into the low 12's without taking the engine apart.