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Stock 360 output
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70amcpwr View Drop Down
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Joined: Feb/16/2011
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Points: 1485 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70amcpwr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/12/2017 at 8:15pm
Simply the 4.10 won't allow 100mph unless you rev passed 5k rpm's which will require valve train changes @ a minimum and should include a complete engine overhaul to prevent it from exploding in the event of a worn internal component.  The take off is carb and intake,  first gear ratio, tires, and maybe torque converter as mentioned.

Don't be concerned w/learning how to work w/ a carburetor. Just do one adjustment/change  @ a time and record the results.
70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX
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Points: 5796 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/12/2017 at 9:46pm
A complete engine overhaul would run to $10K+ in Australia, that's why I don't want to go there. Stock cast rods would probably be the limiting factor once valve train is addressed I guess.

5000 RPM across the finish line would get me around 94 mph with the current setup, so I'm not too far off there, 5,500 will take me up to 104 mph, which will need more power. At the moment it's all about improving the 60' time from 2.7-2.8 or so down to under 2.0 or better which will improve the ET considerably.

Even the 600 Holley should get me off the line if it's tuned properly.
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My basically stock 360 in my 70 AMX (built with TachedOut) ran a 14.3 @96mph with a 2.87 rear. Stock with freeflowmanifolds, 2 1/2" duals with magnaflows, performer and a holley 670 vacuum secondary.
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Originally posted by WesternRed WesternRed wrote:

A complete engine overhaul would run to $10K+ in Australia, that's why I don't want to go there. Stock cast rods would probably be the limiting factor once valve train is addressed I guess.

5000 RPM across the finish line would get me around 94 mph with the current setup, so I'm not too far off there, 5,500 will take me up to 104 mph, which will need more power. At the moment it's all about improving the 60' time from 2.7-2.8 or so down to under 2.0 or better which will improve the ET considerably.

Even the 600 Holley should get me off the line if it's tuned properly.
I'm sitting here looking at a dyno test for a bone stock 350 Chevrolet engine. I would say the AMC 360 is similar, but the heads are a little better. I'm not sure how much that affects a stock engine.

   The stock cams are similar between the two, The Chevy engine hits peak horsepower at 4,100 rpm, and is basically flat from 4,000 to 4,600 rpm. The torque peak is at 3,700 rpm, and drops off pretty rapidly after 3,900 rpm. 

    If you hit the traps at 91, you are turning around 4,800 rpm???
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Points: 328 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tached_out Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/13/2017 at 4:50pm
I hope with all the advice flying around you don't forget the easiest (at this point) thing to address, your spark advance.

I'll disagree with a couple of things suggested.

First. 
The gear ratio isn't hurting you get off the starting line. It can't possibly. It's torque multiplication. This is basic physics. The lazy 60' times point directly at your tune up. These times would be even worse with less gear. Sure it is going to require you to look into your combination in the future. When you get the car sorted out you will need a more stable valve train and better rod bolts. You've spent the money on the rear end. Unless you want to spend a bunch more, leave it and work with what needs improvement.

Second. 
Gremlins are not traction challenged. At 96'' wheel base, they are the kings of weight transfer.

The key to making any car faster is to; 
1- Get the most air and fuel into the cylinder during the intake event. This can only result in greater cylinder pressure. If you want to keep your 600 put it on the Torker. It's too small on a Performer and a Performer is too small on your engine.

2- Light the mixture at a time when the peak pressure of combustion will impart the greatest force on the crankshaft. In your case this is occurring way too late. All the pressure and heat that should move the piston down the cylinder and you down the track is going out your open exhaust valve. It's kind of like starting off on a bicycle with the pedal already too far down.

You can address these two issues for the price of an intake manifold gasket.

If you only want to take one step at a time, fix your timing.
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Originally posted by tached_out tached_out wrote:

I hope with all the advice flying around you don't forget the easiest (at this point) thing to address, your spark advance.

I'll disagree with a couple of things suggested.

First. 
The gear ratio isn't hurting you get off the starting line. It can't possibly. It's torque multiplication. This is basic physics. The lazy 60' times point directly at your tune up. These times would be even worse with less gear. Sure it is going to require you to look into your combination in the future. When you get the car sorted out you will need a more stable valve train and better rod bolts. You've spent the money on the rear end. Unless you want to spend a bunch more, leave it and work with what needs improvement.

Second. 
Gremlins are not traction challenged. At 96'' wheel base, they are the kings of weight transfer.

The key to making any car faster is to; 
1- Get the most air and fuel into the cylinder during the intake event. This can only result in greater cylinder pressure. If you want to keep your 600 put it on the Torker. It's too small on a Performer and a Performer is too small on your engine.

2- Light the mixture at a time when the peak pressure of combustion will impart the greatest force on the crankshaft. In your case this is occurring way too late. All the pressure and heat that should move the piston down the cylinder and you down the track is going out your open exhaust valve. It's kind of like starting off on a bicycle with the pedal already too far down.

You can address these two issues for the price of an intake manifold gasket.

If you only want to take one step at a time, fix your timing.
I agree totally about timing. I said that the gear might be costing him at the end of the track on a totally stock engine. Also, on street tires, I think that Gremlins are traction challenged. I have a friend who bought a new 304 Gremlin that was really slippery to drive in the wet, and I have an SC/360 Hornet that spins like mad on standard size street tires. I have never driven it in the rain.
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Oh! I know what you mean. 

I can tell you from first hand experience, Gremlins and AMXs require a great deal of respect when their wheels are spinning. They are not the least bit forgiving if you let the rump end get out from behind the front wheels.
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Originally posted by tached_out tached_out wrote:

Oh! I know what you mean. 

I can tell you from first hand experience, Gremlins and AMXs require a great deal of respect when their wheels are spinning. They are not the least bit forgiving if you let the rump end get out from behind the front wheels.
I bought a new 70 AMX that I still have. Believe me, I know all about driving it in all types of weather, snow included. It was my only transportation for 3 years. I had it  in Connecticut for one winter with studded redline F70-14 snow tires. It is a 4 speed car.
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Points: 5796 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/13/2017 at 5:43pm
Timing is definitely first cab off the rank, then I can run it at the strip again next Wednesday night to measure any improvement.

I can try a few things with ther carby too, if I have some direction to go in. I do have an open spacer that I could run if needed.

Traction is certainly not an issue with the slicks and the pictures from the strip do show a good bit of weight transfer.

I do have a few things to address like the rear main seal and a small coolant leak on the intake, so that would open up the opportunity to make some other changes.

The comverter is my other main concern, like the gears it should be a torque multiplier, but if it’s too tight then it could be working against me.

It should really run in the 14’s as is and even faster with the right induction, cam and converter

Anyway, let’s see what difference the timing makes first.
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Points: 3500 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/14/2017 at 4:01pm
Call me crazy if you like, but I have to ask: Is it starting out in second gear, & not first, for some reason?
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