Stock 360 output

Thought in this instance I would get away with reusing the valley pan, would need to be a bit of spring in them to maintain seal, but then again maybe not.

Not having much joy tonight couple of runs, bad starts and mph is down. Now can’t get it started, so still a starter/battery/ charging system problem.

Not trying to be a a**hole, but that cam is way way way too big for the combo.

Hydraulics that big are really problematic as the required initial ramp causes the seat duration to be silly. Some cams have high seating velocities to try to ameliorate, and that makes them noisy. Add to that the fact hydraulic lifters start to collapse at rpm under the load, or float if the springs are not matching, and if you are after a cam that big go solid. As stated earlier I recommend 230 degrees max for a hydraulic. Someone will always say I ran such and such and it worked fine but in most cases a solid would have been better.

So looking at options:

a) Drop the early crank out and replace it with one that is TF compatible, then buy a decent converter. Let's say we spec it with a Comp 280H for want of a better suggestion?

This is probably the lowest cost scenario, will need to freshen up/grind the crank I have and add some bearings.

More stall will cost more money, how much advantage would the 8" x 5000+ rpm have over say a 10" x 3500 rpm converter?

Can add my Torker in the process after I get it re-faced.

Headers, well the American Racing Headers are now available for the small cars, but significant investment required, otherwise Headman 1 5/8" would have to do.

b) In addition to (a), increase compression, I do have a set of 291 heads that could replace the 993 heads on there at the moment, but would probably need a freshen up.

Otherwise change pistons, but that is pretty much a full rebuild and will cost even more.

c) Just build the damn 401, have block, crank and pistons, so just needs rods and machine work. I've left out build the 360, since I would need pistons and rods and the same amount of machine work, so it seems a bit of a pointless exercise.

Short term goal if I want to actually race it rather than just test and tune, it would need to run in our Super Street class (currently no other options at the local track), so has to run faster than 12.99, its DYO handicap, so just getting into the 12's would be good enough.

I'm assuming the most likely option (a) would get me there, would the same converter still work for me if I want to step up to option (c) later with say a 500 HP 401?