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Stock 360 output |
Post Reply | Page <1 1415161718> |
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70amcpwr
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/16/2011 Location: Moultonboro NH Status: Offline Points: 1485 |
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They're not reusable as they're a crush seal. Also the rubber end seals are known to be a problem.
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70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX |
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799 |
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Thought in this instance I would get away with reusing the valley pan, would need to be a bit of spring in them to maintain seal, but then again maybe not.
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RUMBLR
AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/03/2010 Location: South Australia Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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Your not speaking to yourself...just cant offer assistance most of the time!
Although on the valley pan metal gasket - i have reused mine approx 3 times with no issues. We used sealant on the ends not the rubber seals and i also smeared sealant on both sides of the valley pan gasket. Mine is actually cut up so that it is just two narrow pieces running along the head. ie the entire middle is gone. |
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343 904 M20 - 11.83@115
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799 |
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Not having much joy tonight couple of runs, bad starts and mph is down. Now can’t get it started, so still a starter/battery/ charging system problem.
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799 |
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One more run, I’ve lost a couple of tenths and 3 mph advancing the cam, back on the trailer, it’s beer o’clock.
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Ken_Parkman
AMC Addicted Joined: Jun/04/2009 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 1814 |
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Not trying to be a a**hole, but that cam is way way way too big for the combo.
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799 |
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Feel free to a**hole away Ken, I'll take it as friendly advice knowing you are correct, the XE262 would have probably been nice, I really don't know how they managed to regrind it into what it is now when they were just going to put a similar grind on it. I would have probably lost the last two weeks waiting for another cam from the US and the season would have been over, so had to give it a shot at least. It's all about learning for me at the moment, I am only doing test and tune nights, so now I know what happens if you go too big on the cam and I also have some experience of what happens if you advance the cam.
Now I have to make plans for the winter break and I have so many options the mind boggles, one of which will be putting this cam in the bin.
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Ken_Parkman
AMC Addicted Joined: Jun/04/2009 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 1814 |
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Hydraulics that big are really problematic as the required initial ramp causes the seat duration to be silly. Some cams have high seating velocities to try to ameliorate, and that makes them noisy. Add to that the fact hydraulic lifters start to collapse at rpm under the load, or float if the springs are not matching, and if you are after a cam that big go solid. As stated earlier I recommend 230 degrees max for a hydraulic. Someone will always say I ran such and such and it worked fine but in most cases a solid would have been better.
Of course I'm a hypocrite since a put a 232 hydraulic in my street Rambler. But that was a specific experiment with the rules of it had to be a true street-low maintenance-no valve lash-daily driver type-pump gas engine, yet try to make the most power I could. It's a 426 and it's got smaller stem valves (lighter weight), beehives, and a stiff valvetrain to try to work with the hydraulic at rpm. It made 567 hp on the dyno, and so far has run an 11 flat at 126 in street trim, and the power is good through 6500. With the 426 the vacuum wipers still work, but pretty slow at idle. So you can run that cam, but the rest of the combo must match. I'll climb on the converter bandwagon again, but with the right converter it could work. Put the cam ICL back to 106 or so, get a top quality (like an ATI) 8" race converter above 5000 stall, torker, headers, electric water pump drive, 4.10 gear, and shift it at 6000. Some work on the heads would help. It will run in the low 11's without touching the short block.
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Sonic Silver
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Nov/23/2011 Location: East Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 7949 |
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5799 |
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So looking at options:
a) Drop the early crank out and replace it with one that is TF compatible, then buy a decent converter. Let's say we spec it with a Comp 280H for want of a better suggestion? This is probably the lowest cost scenario, will need to freshen up/grind the crank I have and add some bearings. More stall will cost more money, how much advantage would the 8" x 5000+ rpm have over say a 10" x 3500 rpm converter? Can add my Torker in the process after I get it re-faced. Headers, well the American Racing Headers are now available for the small cars, but significant investment required, otherwise Headman 1 5/8" would have to do. b) In addition to (a), increase compression, I do have a set of 291 heads that could replace the 993 heads on there at the moment, but would probably need a freshen up. Otherwise change pistons, but that is pretty much a full rebuild and will cost even more. c) Just build the damn 401, have block, crank and pistons, so just needs rods and machine work. I've left out build the 360, since I would need pistons and rods and the same amount of machine work, so it seems a bit of a pointless exercise. Short term goal if I want to actually race it rather than just test and tune, it would need to run in our Super Street class (currently no other options at the local track), so has to run faster than 12.99, its DYO handicap, so just getting into the 12's would be good enough. I'm assuming the most likely option (a) would get me there, would the same converter still work for me if I want to step up to option (c) later with say a 500 HP 401? |
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