Steering Not Centered After Gear/Pitman Arm Work

Hey all. I've been doing some work on my '78 Concord's steering components. The car has been running fine other than a leaky power stearing gear. Last week I installed a re-manufactured steering gear (Lares), and a new pitman arm (Mevotech) from RockAuto. After installation everything seems fine, but the steering wheel is now sitting about 90* to the right while driving straight (keep in mind the car is NOT pulling in either direction and still appears to be tracking straight). The alignment was perfect before the steering gear/pitman arm went in, but I figured I'd check the alignment anyway. With the steering wheel centered, the right wheel has about 4cm of toe-in, while the left wheel is towed slightly outward. I tried adjusting the tie rod sleeves to correct this, but the sleeve on the left wheel is as tight as it will go and the wheel is still slightly towed out. Meanwhile, the sleeve on the right wheel has lots of exposed tie rod thread and the wheel is no where close to being out far enough.

So what gives? The pitman arm/shaft have a deep groove every 90* to insure proper alignment. Is it possible something was machined wrong? Is there something else I'm missing?

That's what I was thinking, but with the steering wheel centered, I get an even 1.5 turns in each direction until I hit the stops. The steering wheel is centered on the gear, and the wheel toe can't physically be adjusted any further... so unless something in the gear wasn't put back together right during re-manufacturing, I can't see what else it could be other than the pitman arm.

I guess I'll pull the pitman arm off and compare with the original. I did compare before putting it on, but perhaps didn't look quite closely enough...

The whole front unibody of these cars can "migrate". This can happen to most 1970-1988 models. I lost my 85 Eagle from too much front unibody migration.

There was a yellow 70 AMX in an old thread called OLD YELLER but all the pictures are gone. It was about the successful repair of this "migration".

If a person pulls the steering wheel to "reclock", first, it isn't always possible because the splines are made to not allow that in many cases - for good reason.

But finally, you are throwing the steering sector off-center, there's a high-point to that box and moving the steering wheel means you have fewer turns, even if only by a FRACTION, one way than the other, and you run the steering sector in a place it was never intended to run.

I guess if I must, even though this has been discussed several other times over the years, I'll drag out books and spend time to show why the makers of steering equipment say "no, don't do that".
I know - a lot of shade-treers have done it over the years and say "what's the big deal, it works", it's just plain covering a PROBLEM and yeah, I mean problem, elsewhere, such as bent or damaged parts, incorrect parts and so on, again, it puts that sector in a place it wasn't intended to run going down the road. 
Early cars we used a punch to mark, but I've noted that many of the cars I've worked on lately, including my own, only went on one way - likely the factory fixed that issue with people simply moving the wheel to correct wear or damage.

Do whatever - it  isn't my car, but simply moving a wheel is possibly only covering something bad or wrong elsewhere.

If I remember correctly, with the steering wheel straight,  he said he had exactly the same number of turns left as he does right - meaning the steering wheel isn't "off", something else is.
Plus, the wheel was centered before the sector change, so likely he never had the wheel off just to change sector and/or pitman. So the wheel shouldn't be in question.
(the flex joint (some call "rag joint") parts are indexed, are they not? Meaning those can't be put back on incorrectly.......?)