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starting problems

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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2007 at 5:15am
I've never liked those, I know they have their fans, but I'm not one. We saw no end of trouble with those thing......... but some Eagle people swear by them.
We always swore at them............
My 82 Eagle now has HEI.
I may leave the 80 as it is, after all, I have 3 good dsitributors and one NOS motorcrap dist. for a 258
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poormansMACHINE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2007 at 6:50am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

I've never liked those, I know they have their fans, but I'm not one. We saw no end of trouble with those thing......... but some Eagle people swear by them.
We always swore at them............
My 82 Eagle now has HEI.
I may leave the 80 as it is, after all, I have 3 good dsitributors and one NOS motorcrap dist. for a 258


So if I switch to something different in the Ambassador, it'll run faster than 12.70's?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2007 at 10:16am
Bill, you sure you don't mean the Prestolite electronic ignition? I know lots of people who have had problems with it (AMC only used it 2-3 years!), but few with Motorcraft ignition problems that weren't easily fixed (bad brain box or some other problem that was easily repaired).

One way to check the accelerator pump problem: pour a small amount of gas down the carb. If it cranks easily then that would indicate a bad accelerator pump. Of course it could also indicate an internal leak somewhere. My Jeep J-10 six w/BBD has that problem. Leave it sitting for 3-4 days and the bowl is dry. The carb needs to be rebuilt -- probably has a bad gasket somewhere.

I'd pull and rebuild the carb no matter what, not just replace the accelerator pump. It's old and there could be other problems. Rebuilding isn't difficult, just follow the directions with the kit. Get the gallon can of carb cleaner. It has a little basket for small parts and you can seal it and use later. Let everything soak at least 4-5 hours, overnight is better. You don't really have to soak the top or throttle plate (bottom), but make sure the center section with all the small passages gets that good soaking! Then blow through all the passages with compressed air or spray carb cleaner if you don't have air. Wear safety glasses!! If you spray air or compressed cleaner into a blind passage it comes right back out in your face!! That stuff stings the eyes.... (learned from long ago...)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2007 at 2:06pm
Nope, I mean the Ford Motorcrap. We saw a LOT of problems, yes, mainly the control box, but they failed so often, for a time it would have been wise to carry a spare. We stocked them and we weren't even Ford dealer. Saw probably one or two a week. More failures than any other ignition system of that day. The Ford ignition on my own Eagle even failed, within a couple years of new. We had pickups fail, too - broken wires in the dist. Their connectors suck, too.
Easily repaired, well, ALL electronic ignitions are simple to repair. My issue was with the number and frequency of failures.
I'll just say that having made my living fixing those darned things during their hey-day, I'm NOT a fan.

>>
So if I switch to something different in the Ambassador, it'll run faster than 12.70's?<<

No, there's a much bigger part that needs replacing to accomplish that! Ooooooooooo............ JK.
Magnets on the fuel line, or spark intensifiers in the wires might help.


Edited by billd - Nov/25/2007 at 2:07pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poormansMACHINE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2007 at 2:28pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

.
Magnets on the fuel line, or spark intensifiers in the wires might help.

I thinking more along the line of a "Tornado" in each of the air inlet ducts.LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/25/2007 at 3:16pm

billd, I on the other hand have not had much trouble with the motorcraft ignitions............never have bought a box for  any of mine........

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KermitDRambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/26/2007 at 12:39pm
Originally posted by pacerman pacerman wrote:

Not a new carb.   You would need to put a kit (rebuild kit) in the present carb. Kits are fairly common for the BBD.  You will need a clean, well-lighted place to work with a clean work surface.   You can rebuild the carb by following the instructions in the carb kit.  Rebuilding a carb can be quite daunting the first time you do it.  Just study the exploded view of the carb and follow the instructions to the letter.
 
You might want to get a hotrod buddy to assist you if you're unsure of yourself.  Also, a source of compressed air helps, but is not absolutely necessary.   You will probably need at least a one gallon pail of carb cleaner.  You will do a more thorough job if you dip the parts in the cleaner instead of just spraying with carb cleaner.
 
I've found that the best source of info when rebuilding the carb is a TSM. Besides having much more detailed info on the actual procedures, it also explains how the thing works which is very helpful. The key is to take your time during the rebuild.
 
If you can get it (and it's worth looking for), get the Gunk brand gallon can of carb cleaner. B9 Chemtool is another common brand but the Gunk stuff works better and is easier on the person using it.
 
BTW, I'm pretty sure this carb is notorious for the screws that hold the main body to the throttle plate coming loose. When that happens, you get a massive vacuum leak. It's easy enough to check: grab the carb and twist. If it moves, that's your problem. This still doesn't get you out of a rebuild in the long term since being loose damages the gasket. Short term, you can take the carb off and tighten the screws but since you have a damaged gasket, you're going to have a vacuum leak.
 
To keep those screws in place, use blue Locktite during reassembly (you'll have to rebuild the carb to get everything clean enough for it to work).
 
To throw more fuel on the fire of what can be wrong, a stuck open EGR valve can also cause a car to suddenly not start since it causes a massive vacuum leak when it's open. Bad vacuum lines and broken fittings can also cause enough vacuum leaks to keep it from starting. I had similar problems with my El Camino when I got it. All of the vacuum fittings into the engine were loose, vacuum lines where connected wrong and were bad, there was a bad vacuum switch (borken and leaking), the EGR valve was bad, and the carb was loose. It took a bunch of work sessions to get it squared away but once it was back to how it was supposed to be, it ran pretty well.
 
Matt
1967 American wagon
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimmhuth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2007 at 8:05am
would a fuse have anything to do with the carburetor.
fuse #10(park LPS) is burned up as well as the fuse for the ac/fan.

if not does anyone know what these do?Wacko
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2007 at 8:22am
air conditioner and blower/fan, and parking lamps/lights (markers on the side and the lights in with the front turn signals).
Nope.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimmhuth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2007 at 9:41am
well i guess thats why when i hit my brakes the front signals go on?LOL
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