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jimmhuth 
AMC Fan 
Joined: Nov/20/2007 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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 Topic: starting problemsPosted: Nov/20/2007 at 2:25pm |
 i just bought a 1981 amc eagle. its been running great but unfortunately it wouldnt start the other day. the only way i can get it to start is by spraying starting fluid into the carb.replaced the fuel pump but it still wont start. does anybody have any advice? |
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WiSeNhEiMeR
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Joined: Oct/29/2007 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 139 |
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Posted: Nov/20/2007 at 9:22pm |
First check your automatic CHOKE and make sure it is CLOSING all the way when your engine is COLD ...
and while you're THERE check to see that your ACCELLERATOR PUMP is working too.
(with the engine OFF --- give your carb linkage a pump or two while looking down the carb, and make sure you are getting a squirt of gasoline each time)
WiSeNhEiMeR
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Don't Mind ME,
I'm Just a WiSeNhEiMeR from: Richmond INdiana N.A.M.D.R.A. #398 |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 22779 |
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Posted: Nov/20/2007 at 11:37pm |
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You gotta trust me on this - if it's a 4cyl, change spark plugs. (experience with AMC, GM and Renault 4's in Iowa winters)
OK, now to basics, it's been said check that choke. Make sure it moves FREELY, closes when cold (and relaxes when warm).
Do check accel pump, not just for operation - it should give a STRONG solid stream of gas into the venturi area - but also after sitting to see if there's even gas in the carb!
When was the last tune-up - including cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, checking of all carb linkage and adjustments including choke?
You should be able to pump the gas pedal a couple of times, then hit the key and start it. That's how my 258 Eagle works even with a junk-yard carb on it. That's how every AMC I've ever owned worked. Pushing the pedal releases the fast idle cam and allows the choke to close. Another time gives it a shot of gas, like a prime, into the carb. From there, it should start, the choke break should crack the choke just a bit to prevent over-choking immediately after it starts, then as it warms, the choke should relax or open.
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IowaEagle
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Charter Member Joined: Jun/30/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 632 |
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Posted: Nov/21/2007 at 1:07am |
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An ignition upgrade will help too, its called a TFI upgrade and its kind of like a super tuneup. That is if its an I-6.
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billd
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Posted: Nov/21/2007 at 1:20am |
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So will HEI..................
HOT spark, and ability to run 45 on the plug gap and a real even idle.
Also adds the ability to go to ANY parts store and buy 6 cyl GM ignition parts for your Eagle.
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farna
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Posted: Nov/22/2007 at 4:16am |
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The TFI upgrade is basically Ford's version of the GM HEI. Ford just didn't redesign the distributor body. TFI and HEI are otherwise equal as far as performance and parts availability (Ford 300 six was used much later than the GM 250). You do need the special TFI coil and wires as well as the cap, rotor, and adapter base. The coil is the main thing that gives it added spark, the bigger cap increases distance between the plug towers so they won't cross fire, and the wires have a better connection to the cap. You can gap the plugs wider just like the HEI system.
Sounds to me like the choke is on the fritz too. Does it crank okay in warm weather? |
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Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com |
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poormansMACHINE
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Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: Shoemaker-Levy9 Status: Offline Points: 12357 |
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Posted: Nov/22/2007 at 5:35am |
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How did "needs ether to start" turn into a need for an ignition upgrade?
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WiSeNhEiMeR
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Joined: Oct/29/2007 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 139 |
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Posted: Nov/22/2007 at 4:51pm |
Just a thought --- ether ignites "easier" than gasoline ... so getting a better SPARK might be the trick ...
Of course other factors, like poor compression, from leaky piston rings, or an engine in need of a VALVE JOB will sometimes "start on ether" but not start on gas ... the ether just pushes the feeble spark or oily, or "loose" combustion chamber into a viable environment ... another problem could be a weak starter motor ... if the engine isn't spinning itself around fast enough, sometimes the CAM's overlap will artificially lower the compression ratio enough to instill the hard or NO starting symptom.
NOT solutions --- only other possible items to check off your "punch list"
WiSeNhEiMeR
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Don't Mind ME,
I'm Just a WiSeNhEiMeR from: Richmond INdiana N.A.M.D.R.A. #398 |
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jimmhuth
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Joined: Nov/20/2007 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: Nov/23/2007 at 8:57am |
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so it seems like im just not getting that little squirt of gas into the carb.
does this mean a new carb? im new to the world of carburetors |
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pacerman
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Posted: Nov/23/2007 at 9:39am |
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Not a new carb. You would need to put a kit (rebuild kit) in the present carb. Kits are fairly common for the BBD. You will need a clean, well-lighted place to work with a clean work surface. You can rebuild the carb by following the instructions in the carb kit. Rebuilding a carb can be quite daunting the first time you do it. Just study the exploded view of the carb and follow the instructions to the letter.
You might want to get a hotrod buddy to assist you if you're unsure of yourself. Also, a source of compressed air helps, but is not absolutely necessary. You will probably need at least a one gallon pail of carb cleaner. You will do a more thorough job if you dip the parts in the cleaner instead of just spraying with carb cleaner.
Joe
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jimmhuth wrote: