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Starter Solenoids Keep Going Out

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carnuck View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/29/2012 at 10:19pm
When the nose bushing wears so the armature turns off-center on the Ford type starters, they draw so much extra energy that they weld the solenoid contacts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RB401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/29/2012 at 11:26pm
Ok, this morning I took the car to Autozone for a free starter draw test.  The starter only drew only 190 amps, so that does not appear to be the problem.  The battery being near new also checked out good.  What did not check out however, was the voltage regulator.  On his big orange tester, it showed up as being bad.  I had him run the test twice.  I have read that bad regulators can cause the solenoid contacts to hang up (though I don't why that would happen.)  Anyway, I converted the car to a Declo 12SI with internal regulator years ago.  So, I just installed a new 12 SI. (It's easy enough but you do have to drill the clearance hole in the alternator from 3/8 to 7/16.  No more 5 pin solenoids seem to be left in town, so I am going to get one Standard Products ST-582 types from a local EBAY seller.  I did take the car on 35 mile drive today with a 4 pin solenoid installed and everything seems to be working well.
'73 Javelin AMX, 401, T5

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/30/2012 at 1:33am
190 is about 90 too high.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RB401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2012 at 4:50pm
Ok, fried another solenoid.  Voltmeter shows 12 volts across the solenoid battery and starter lugs and shows 12 volts at the terminal on the starter.  So, the starter it seems is dead.  Also, checked voltage on the ignition wire, because I was wondering if the ignition switch could have been slow to release or simply not releasing, but it appears okay, i.e. has 12 volts in start and drops quickly back to zero when released.  So, its off to get a new starter. 
 
I thought once the car was "restored", I wouldn't have much to do but drive it.  Not so, primarily because of poor replacement parts quality, nothing seems to stay fixed for long.
'73 Javelin AMX, 401, T5

T5 Swap Page: http://mysite.verizon.net/amxjavelin/t5swap/t5swap.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2012 at 4:57pm
With the quality of parts you get it seems it's just a crap shoot as to what will fail next.
Still buying parts for the Machines. It's a disease.

Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RB401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2012 at 8:30pm
Help!
 
I just installed a new starter and a new solenoid and the engine will not turn over. I must be diagonosing this wrong. I have 12 volts coming from the ignition wire to the s-terminal on the solenoid when I turn the key to the start position. So, the ignition switch appears to be working properly.  When I turn the switch to the start postion nothing happens, no click, nothing.
With the key in the off position, I have 12 volts at the battery post on the solenoid and I have 12 volts at the starter post (not the little s-terminal) but the large post on the solenoid.  Since, I have 12 volts on the starter post, I also have 12 volts at the starter, (which doesn't seem right).  Again when, I turn the key to start, nothing happens.  If I jump (with a jumper cable) from the battery postive terminal to the starter post on the solenoid, the starter turns over.
 
Does anyone have any idea what is happening here? It's hard to believe I have gotten three bad solenoids in a row. Something must be wrong, but I can't figure it out.
'73 Javelin AMX, 401, T5

T5 Swap Page: http://mysite.verizon.net/amxjavelin/t5swap/t5swap.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2012 at 9:14pm
Is the ground wire off the back of the solenoid?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2012 at 11:26pm
OK are ALL the batt. cables new out of box or are they old and look good? If they "look good" I would replace them and dont forget the ground behind the pass side motor mount.
If you run a wire from batt + to the S on the SOL the motor should turn over if not then there is something still wrong/bad somewhere. Now someone said something about a ground wire on the back of the SOL? I have never seen any with this on it but have seen that the SOL needs to be grounded to the inside fender so if you just painted it you may want to cleam off some of the paint to see if this does anything. The other thing the ground from batt to motor IIRC is to the head. Motor painted? Clean off the paint on the motor and put the ground back on.
Once you get the motor to turn over using the jumper wire from batt to SOL you can see if the normal wire will work.
Dave ----
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RB401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/06/2012 at 12:21am
The motor does turn over if you jump from battery positive to the starter side of the solenoid.
'73 Javelin AMX, 401, T5

T5 Swap Page: http://mysite.verizon.net/amxjavelin/t5swap/t5swap.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73hornut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/06/2012 at 8:56am
Originally posted by RB401 RB401 wrote:

The motor does turn over if you jump from battery positive to the starter side of the solenoid.
Bad ignition switch, or neutral safety switch?
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