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Soldered Joints, Crimped Joints

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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/26/2018 at 6:04pm
Originally posted by Mopar_guy Mopar_guy wrote:

FWIW I use non insulated crimp connectors, a pair of Klein crimpers and marine grade heat shrink (it has glue in it to seal) on all my external wiring joints and have never had an issue for over 20 years of doing this. I've not seen a factory harness with soldered joints.

"This is as bad a discussing what motor oil you like."    That is so true!!  Along with filters too! LOL


You and 6Pack and others make decent points. I have wired cars literally since age 14 - right or wrong, perfect or not, what I have done is this - 
Crimp using decent connectors, make it TIGHT, solder it, use a decent heat shrink. If I think it could still be threatened by Iowa's environment, I then cover it with liquid tape (but only if unseen such as under the car)
I have wired campers, trucks, tractors, and my own cars - and so far haven't lost a joint but then i'm only 61 so I suppose I can't say "they will last 100 years" because I've not run that test YET.

But i've still got some of my electronic projects and such from my early teens - things I soldered with proper rosin core solder - not a bit of corrosion or appearance of acid, and so on.

I used to work for Compressor Controls Corp, a world-wide EE company and maker of very high-end turbo-compressor control systems and controllers for the electric grid. 
They crimped, soldered, and used heat shrink. In fact when they were doing some massive changes about the time I left the company their head of the manufacturing department was doing some housecleaning and giving away big rolls of heat shrink they no longer used. Much of it was either way too big or too small for automotive but I still have some sizes of it on the rolls hanging in my garage. 

They did tend to wash things - sometimes LITERALLY in a dish washer - yeah, entire circuit boards went in there and yes it was a standard dish washer like from Sears. 

I did laptop computer board-level repairs and never had an engineer yell at me - their computers took more abuse than anything I'd ever seen, coming back covered with coal dust, acidic whatever from the environment they were in (petrol rigs, pumping stations, refineries, etc.) 

I did much of the wiring on my little Eagle a number of years ago - and on my 70 Javelin a dozen years ago -everything is still fine.
Perfect? Naw, some of you here would likely find flaws, but reliable, and so far, have stood the test of time. 
I agree expensive crimp tools and the terminals made for them are ideal - but unless you have those and expose NO copper, well........... 
I've also opened up factory wiring and found GREEN up inside the insulation several inches - so apparently even the perfect crimps aren't perfect as moisture can wick up any exposed copper stranded wiring. 

Yeah, some of these I had to cut off a couple of inches back due to corrosion up inside the insulation. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gtoman_us Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/26/2018 at 8:38pm
When soldering, Resin core for electronics is what should be used.. period

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/26/2018 at 9:29pm
never use acid core solder on electric circuits - correct. Rosin core or solid core and a good paste made for electrical work. 
I keep rosin core and solid solder on hand - and different types of soldering pastes. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/26/2018 at 10:32pm
This has been a very informative thread. Thanks guys! Looks like I’m happy with the way I’ve always done things. “Always” is relative though as I’m only 36...
1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2018 at 5:40am
Either is fine as long as it's done properly. My methods are the same as Bills.
I worked for a wiring loom manufacturer for a while and there was no soldering. But worked in another factory wiring armoured vehicles and race cars and used the crimp and solder method. It's cheap insurance. As mentioned rosin core solder only. The lead free stuff is no good either but that's just another opinion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2018 at 8:11am
Originally posted by ccowx ccowx wrote:

... crimps ... are the preferred method of military contractors.
I've worked for military contractors most of my career and can attest to this. Never seen any aircraft wiring harness with soldered connections. One product I worked on had three of these connectors - 128 contacts each, all crimped.



I'm glad I'm not an assembler. Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S Curry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2018 at 8:17am
I do both methods. My job for the last 30 yrs has been a meter tech for a utility on High Voltage systems in substations. I have done millions of crimps. Insulated and uninsulated. My hobby is to restore repair and build tube audio equipment. Mainly guitar amps and radios. That requires soldier. There is an art to both methods to be done correct. Soldering is an art all by itself. It can easily be done incorrectly. Anyway, either method done right will last well past my lifetime and them some.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2018 at 4:59pm
I only solder if I have to. The brass connectors for relay blocks. Battery terminals. I still have some old cored electrical solder.
Sometimes I use Lucas bullets, with a bullet crimper.
Otherwise uninsulated crimps, ratchet crimper.

Occasionally might lob in a bit of glueless heatshrink if I think of it.
Thanks for the tip about the glued stuff.

I also use marine grease on the crimp terminal when I push it together.

The wiring.... on my 44 yo Land Rover is falling apart. The copper wire is brittle the insulation is cracked. But at least it's colour coded so I can trace faults.
The wiring on the 55yo Ambo looks factory-fresh. Just as well, given their habit of using same colours for different purposes.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2018 at 5:19pm
The wiring in my 1969 Javelin looked absolutely mint when I got it. But it had sat for 20+ years and when I pulled the harness out, everything was unbelievably brittle and there was unseen corrosion creeping up the copper at almost every connector. I’m sure every situation is different, but the peace of mind I get from fresh wiring is almost medicinal.
1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/31/2018 at 11:12pm
Originally posted by pacerman pacerman wrote:

This is as bad a discussing what motor oil you like.  Joe


lol, was thinking that as i read the first few posts.

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