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Soldered Joints, Crimped Joints |
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Red20
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/29/2013 Location: Oceanside CA Status: Offline Points: 1556 |
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Posted: Mar/26/2018 at 3:03am |
I wanted to get some of your thoughts on wiring joints. I’m not talking concourse correct, factory wiring here. I’m talking automotive wiring theory with new wire and terminals. I’ve read a lot of differing opinions on soldering vs crimped connectors. Many laud the strength of soldered and heat shrink tubing covered butt connections and splices. Others point out the properties of the rosin core that can cause oxidation of the copper wires and promote proper crimp connections with quality crimpers and terminals/butt connectors. Then there’s the insulated vs non insulated discussion and the adhesive lined vs plain heat shrink tubing. And the dissenting opinions go on and on.
Personally, I like my butt connections and splices soldered and covered with heat shrink tubing and my terminal ends crimped with non insulated terminals also heat shrink covered. I figure if I cover a soldered butt splice immediately with a good heat shrink, it’ll prevent or slow oxidation enough that I’ll never see an issue in my lifetime if done correctly. I’m also one of those guys who can’t leave well enough alone. Almost every time I get a “new” old car, I rewire the entire thing with a universal harness, recreating the factory wiring scheme but with fresh wires and more modern methods and way more circuits and relays for more consistent voltage and the ability to easily expand. This allows me to run various terminal blocks inside the car, under the hood, in the trunk, etc. I’ll also have the ignition switch trigger relays for ignition, and accessory feeds to extend the life of the factory switch. And I enjoy rebuilding the original Packard connectors with new terminals. Anyone have any additional advice and tips. I’m no professional, but my hobbyist experience is enough to get me into trouble for sure. Edited by Red20 - Mar/26/2018 at 3:06am |
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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER |
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Lyle
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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Exposed copper will oxidize to the green you always see on pennies. Electrical theory is that electrons for the most part travel on the surface of the copper and not through the middle. Braided wire having more surface area conducts more electrons - per the theory.
A crimp connector, unless sealed type, will allow exposed copper and reduced performance of the conductor over time - decades actually. Now the wrench - we were taught that any wire outside the cabin of the vehicle to use bare crimps, crimp, heat the crimp and drop solder into the crimp, then heat shrink. May be overkill, but this is the neatest size, sealed and connected. |
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6PakBee
Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Online Points: 5458 |
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My theory has always been crimp for mechanical strength, solder for electrical conductivity and corrosion protection. I know that solder has a much lower conductivity than copper (about 1/5th as I recall) but if you take into account the typical solder thickness in a soldered joint there isn't much difference between the solder and the copper/brass. Heat shrink, only the adhesive/marine/waterproof version.
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6686 |
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Crimp joints are perfectly fine if done correctly. The crimp should create an air-tight joint between the wire and the terminal. This requires practice and a good crimping tool to achieve. The manufacturers of crimp terminals invariably make a crimp tool for each terminal design, and the tools are not cheap. You can get away with the cheap dollar store crimper, but it is much more difficult to achieve the air-tight crimp. Allowing air into the joint promotes oxidation of the wire surface, which is an electrical insulator. |
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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Red20
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/29/2013 Location: Oceanside CA Status: Offline Points: 1556 |
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I remember my first crimp with a set of decent ratcheting crimpers. I was amazed. And I recently came across a stash of really high end avionics crimpers that I need to get proper does for ($$$). I can’t wait to try those out. Some Burndys, DMC HX4s, and others. |
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1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER |
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pacerman
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9060 |
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This is as bad a discussing what motor oil you like. Joe
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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Lyle
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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Older strong acid based products and misconception:
"Rosin based fluxes are widely used in military and space electronics. The reasons could be listed as:
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Mopar_guy
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4837 |
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FWIW I use non insulated crimp connectors, a pair of Klein crimpers and marine grade heat shrink (it has glue in it to seal) on all my external wiring joints and have never had an issue for over 20 years of doing this. I've not seen a factory harness with soldered joints.
"This is as bad a discussing what motor oil you like." That is so true!! Along with filters too!
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"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin |
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ccowx
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510 |
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The truth is that either crimps or solder, if properly done, will work fine for our hobby vehicles and likely outlast us anyway!
All that being said, I have a friend who is a P.Eng Electrical engineer with 25 years experience and according to him, crimps are air tight, avoid flux, conduct better, don't have heat damage to either wire or insulator and are the preferred method of military contractors. Electrically superior and mechanically stronger. Take that as you see fit! Chris |
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6768rogues
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6241 |
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I have used soldered joints without cleaning them afterward and crimped joints, both for decades without problems. I have used crimped connections under the vehicle and sealed them with silicone, never having a failure. Maybe if I could live for another 50 years something will fail. This is another topic that is overthought.
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