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sick 727

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1970390amx View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 1:50am
The pump body and gears should be smooth and free from gouges. These are in remarkably good shape after looking at the bushing that was removed. The outer rotor should have .004-.008 clearance to the case. Clearance from the tip of the inner rotor tip to the outer gear is .005-.010. The end clearance is .0015-.003. After checking clearances I apply assembly lube to both inner and outer surfaces of the gears and put them into the body. Then I trial fit them onto the torque converter hub. Mostly to check fit of the bushing but also to center the center gear over the pump bushing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 1:58am
After the gears are installed the stator support can be bolted to the body. The thrust washer on the back of the stator support is available in different thicknesses. There are two sealing rings on the back side of the stator support as well, they fit into the front drum and should be a snug fit. They are made to be stationary in the drum and spin in the groove so they sometimes wear the groove they fit into so it is to wide. The surface they set in the drum should be smooth also. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter Marano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2012 at 12:24pm
Originally posted by 1970390amx 1970390amx wrote:

Some people don't stake the new bushing in place.


I had a transmission rebuilt by one of those guys!  The bushing slid out and fouled the seal. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2012 at 10:51am
This is the intermediate band servo, I start by assembling this and installing in the case. The original sealing rings are a metal ring, some kits have teflon rings in them now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2012 at 10:55am
The seal on this servo is a lip seal, be careful to select the correct one. Its important to but this servo together before you install the rear band as its difficult to assemble later. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2012 at 11:06am
This shows the governor support installed into the rear of the case. In a heavy duty application I would install a bolt in rear sprag. These four bolt would be replaced with longer ons that go through the case and bolt into the outer race of the sprag holding it in place. On the right side of the picture you can see stripped out threads being replaced with a helicoil. On the left you see a black dot on the case. Under it is a pin that supports the reverse band linkage, it has a o-ring on it that should be replaced. Even after having them replaced I have seen them leak, so I clean and cover the hole they go into with right stuff.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2012 at 11:19am
Originally posted by 1970390amx 1970390amx wrote:

After the gears are installed the stator support can be bolted to the body. The thrust washer on the back of the stator support is available in different thicknesses. There are two sealing rings on the back side of the stator support as well, they fit into the front drum and should be a snug fit. They are made to be stationary in the drum and spin in the groove so they sometimes wear the groove they fit into so it is to wide. The surface they set in the drum should be smooth also. 

During reassembly many people don't get the converter all the way into place. If you don't feel it dragging slightly on the housing when you spin it by hand (assuming normal and not undersized racing converter), when you bolt the trans to the motor there is a high likelihood of the converter cracking the housing bolted on in this pic and when you get it running, pieces go all through your new trans and destroy it in short order! 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2012 at 11:54am
I have also seen people bolt the converter to the flex plate and try to install the engine like it was a manual trans, the pump gets destroyed most of the time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2012 at 11:27pm
Before I installed the output shaft I took this picture of the output shaft in the tailhousing. Its a view you will never see. It shows the orientation of the park pawl and the output shaft it locks into. The valve body has a rod that locks it in park, that rod goes through area the screwdriver is pointing to.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2012 at 11:34pm
This is the governor and output shaft installed into the governor support. This is a 4x4 so it has a different output shaft than most transmissions. The tailhousing or transfer case adapter can be installed now, it holds the output shaft in place. 
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