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Sealing brake lines

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Raccoonman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Raccoonman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/15/2018 at 8:25am
If you have a hydraulic service business local to you, they can fabricate new lines for you copying the old ones. I have a Parker dealer close by and had a couple of lines done for my Jag, they worked perfectly. Not too expensive either.
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/16/2018 at 1:09am
flaring tube is tricky and requires a lot of care. i have one of the cheapest-possible type designs, the two bar thing with half-notches, and a saddle type flare. the bars don't adequately clamp, the saddle flare cone is happy pressing at an angle, etc. and the plating gets pitted. even so i can flare tubes OK if i'm extremely careful.

for even good tools, the tubing needs to be cut perfectly square, and not a rolling blade type cutter, but a hacksaw with fine teeth, and filed perfectly square and flat. i de-burr the outer edge, "bevel" a few thousandths. i bevel the inside visibly but lightly with a hand 90 degree burr remover. and clean the tube after cutting. 

the shape of the tube determines the quality of the flare. you can't really overdo it, it's gotta be perfect. you're just pressure-deforming metal, and unevenness translates into distortion.

my crappy bar clamp bows, so i either put the whole thing in a vise or use a C-clamp. i do no flares under the car, it's just asking for trouble. its better anyway for a whole bunch of reasons to fit and test and fit and test and flare off the car, get it so the flare perfectly lands in the cone wthout any side torque or forcing. the nut should go on with two fingers.

if it needs a lot of torque to stop a leak there's a problem. my policy is to get it bent perfectly so the nut goes on with no effort with two fingers, then just *snug* it with the line, probably not enough torque.  brake cleaner and a rag get it dry and clean, then pressure test. if it seeps, snug a bit more. as billd points out, the two slightly different angles between flare and cone does the sealing. nicks or deformity will prevent it from sealing.

if the cones are bad that's the end of that. they have to be good or it will never seal right.

lol, i rarely flare my own lines any more, only for oddball stuff. i simply buy a bunch of pre-flared stock tube and connect with couplers. i've never had to use more than one coupler (even two seems kludgey). i use each bend as an opportunity to change the effective length. they look good when done, no big hoops or weirdness. i do end up with extra lines but they're on the shelf for the next job. it's just too inexpensive to buy pre-flared in a bunch of lengths and not deal with it. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote maximus7001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 12:36pm
Originally posted by POWERSTROKER7.3 POWERSTROKER7.3 wrote:

I use a OTC brake flair tool set, use a tube cut tool for nice straight cuts and a fine tooth hand file for a good bevel on the end, then I lube the mandrel and cone before I proceed to make the double flair. Works every time for me. I've gotten better over the years of making my own brake lines, practice helps alot.


What lube are you using?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harry401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/05/2018 at 6:41pm
Originally posted by akimmet akimmet wrote:

I have a Mastercool 41475. It is a little expensive, but dose an excellent job. I haven't had to deal with a bad flare ever since I have gotten it. This flaring tool can even do more modern flares such as push-lock and GM o-ring.

The Eastwood 25304 is a little cheaper and has a good reputation, it is just a little more bulky to use. You need to mount it in a vice, while the Mastercool is self-contained.

The Cal Van tool 164 is even cheaper.

The have never had good luck with clamp style flaring tools, even the expensive ones.

Copper-nickel (aka UltraBend, Cuniform, & NiCopp) is safe to use for brake lines. Not to be confused with regular copper lines, which should never be used for brake lines.


I also have the Mastercool and sprung for the AN fitting set as well. If you have alot of flares to do this tool is indispensable. I use only the copper/nickel tube anymore unless I have to splice a factory steel  line
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kenosha62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/06/2018 at 6:06pm
Over the years i have settled on pre-mades from the NAPA. As Tomj said they are cheap and with a little creative cornering it is easy enough to burn up a few inches. Thumbs Up
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Lyle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/06/2018 at 6:13pm
Copper-Nickle if fabricating myself.
To get a good seal on any brake line I always coat the back side of the flare and the nut threads with anti seize compound. You don't want to twist the flare on the seating surface, that causes leaks. 
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limachine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote limachine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/06/2018 at 6:53pm
Try seating the lines after you flare them. WhAt I mean is tighten the new line normally, then back it off an eighth of a turn. Tighten again. Crack it again. Tighten again. Crack it again. Now check for leaks. You should be good. If working with stainless, do it 5x. Regular steel is happy with 3x.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/08/2018 at 10:15am
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring-Tool-Set/dp/B00063YR2I
Not currently in stock but here's the photo of the Mastercool Universal Hydraulic Flaring Tool kit
Mastercool Universal Hydraulic Flaring Tool Kit


https://www.amazon.com/KOUL-tools-SurSeat-Lapper-Steel/dp/B01D8ZXCXU
pic of the surseat mini

KOUL tools P45 SurSeat Mini Line Lapper Kit For Use With Steel Brake Lines
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2018 at 3:08pm
Made a new line today in cupro nickel. Single SAE flare one end, double the other.
Used a tool made by ITC in India and marketed over here by Sealey.

The flares were good.
But, the mandrel pinches the tube a little and I have to dress it afterwards to get the fittings over.
Never mind. It's nice to be able to make one's own lines. Avoids that sinking feeling when the line twists as you start to undo the backnut.

What I need now is a tube bender. There's limit to what one can do with a thumb when there are tight bends near the end of the pipe.
Is there no end to building the toolkit, I thought after 50 years I was about done.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MARTINSR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2018 at 6:45pm
I know that I was blown away the last few cars I have done I got away with needing only like one flair in the whole job. There are so many different lengths and even then if you need one a length that isn't made you can put to shorter ones together with a double sided coupler and wham, there you go. 

I use a flair tool of my brothers, it's very old but a SnapOn or some other high quality tool.

Brian
1959 Rambler American daily driver. And I mean EVERY SINGLE day.
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